The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends. Last night i experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, i have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau’s famous motto, “Anyone can cook.” But i realize only now do i truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins, than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau’s, who is, in this critic’s opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France.
