Ways to Identify Recast Dolls on the Second Hand Market
I just took this directly from the anti-recast facebook. Some of the points are good, I will highlight and post my own opinions (with a * to show they are my own) about the ones which may fail you at the end of the day. I'll also add my own at the bottom.
"Ways to identify potential recasts and ways to protect yourself against them:
- extremely obvious seamlines in companies that don't normally have very severe seamlines
* People keep saying this is a good way to identify recasts. This is not a good way to identify recasts. Sometimes companies get lazy and do not sand seams one day, the other they do. Some dolls just have very bad seams. Tan dolls 9/10 times will have seams. If a tan doll doesn't have seams it will usually have some discolouration (this is why companies usually will not sand tan dolls). Volks dolls are notorious for having seams (The seams on my Volks doll have actually scratched me before), there are literally hundreds of recast Volks dolls out there.
-bad drilling in arms, legs, or torso
-bad glueing of magnets into hands
*(This fact brought to you by: Averyconfusedtimelord) This is NOT a for sure way to identify a recast. I own a LEGIT MNF Ryeon whom has a few sets of hands I purchased from DenverDoll. On two pairs of the left hands the magnet in either her wrist or the magnet in the hand itself is uneven or the hole was not drilled deep enough and this causes an small gap in the hand and makes it extremely loose.
-faceplates fit badly or don't fit at all
* This is another way people keep saying that recasts can be easily identified (similarly with head caps). This is just down right not true. I have two legit dolls whose headcaps have never fit, and I've seen countless other dolls who's face plates have never fit. This is a common occurrence with new companies as well as dolls before adding magnets was a common practice.
**(Averyconfusedtimelord) Once again a hard way to define a recast. Especially with the older Luts/CP dolls. I own a CP Moon from 2005 and the fit of his headcap has become loose with time because he has gone through various eye changes and positioning. The headcap now if you shook him a little will come loose and fall off. this is also true with an old MNF El I had.
-missing magnets inside the body (like a littlefee missing its back magnets, that is a dead giveaway)
-holes that should exist being filled in with resin, again like a littlefee with its magnet holes that are filled with resin
-off color wrist or ankle hooks (maybe the company usually uses silver but the recast may have bronze colored hooks)
-missing very tiny details, like IDealian's fingerprints or a signature inside the headcap
-missing original paperwork and/or box
* One may think this is a great idea, however it's really hard to say. Missing original paperwork? Generally isn't a good sign, I wouldn't trust a buyer if they cannot provide this information or cannot provide proof of purchase through the company. However the box is not so good of an indication. If a person has twenty dolls- Do they really want to keep 20 doll boxes? It is entirely possible (probable even) that they have recycled the box or do not wish to ship with the box.
-missing headplate but some recasters do make fake headplates for Volks dolls
* This is true, if a doll is missing it's head plate do not buy it. Don't even think about it, close your tab and move on (If you're on DOA report that sucker). However having plate is not the end all tell all that a doll is legit. Some recasters have and consistently distribute plates for Volks, Lati, and Iplehouse (they have those sticker things in their heads), usually Volks plates will be misprinted and have odd information on them. (Volks plates can usually be identified by what year/dolpa or event they were made, though this is once again not a end all solution.)
* (Averyconfusedtimelord) Volks dolls not having their headplates. This is also kind of hard as these headplates DO fall off on occassion or heads such as older school heads never had headplates to begin with. All of my volks dolls are LEGIT bought from the LA Sumika and my Ayumu’s headplate has fallen out on three occasions since I’ve owned him thankfully the times it has fallen out it’s been in my room so it wasn’t lost. I would be extremely angry if someone up and reported me because of a headplate falling off and missing during a sales post. One way to verify it’s a legit doll from a first time owner is EVERY Volks doll purchased not only comes with paper work BUT also comes with a Volks superdollfie pin that you can pin on your clothes or purse or something.
-seller is unable or unwilling to show you the original receipt from the company on PayPal (if one is buying a doll from the first owner and you are worried, you could ask to see a screenshot of the PayPal transaction with the original company. Paypal usually keeps transaction records available for some time)
-ask to see comparison with another doll, then compare that picture to another person's known authentic dolls to see if the resins compare correctly
* I mean... You can do this if you really want to, but this is getting a little stalker creepy. A huge word of caution. Every resin batch is different. Every company uses different resin, a Soom legit from today sitting next to a Volks legit from 2005 is not going to match. Resin yellows over time. A Volks legit from 2012 is not going to match a Volks legit from 2005. Some recasters have learnt how to almost perfectly match Volks resin, Soom resin, and Iple resin. These are the three most recasted companies.
-if the person you're buying from is not the original owner, ask for the name of the previous owner. Trace the doll back to the original owner if you're in any doubt
-buying directly from the company whenever possible is ALWAYS the best thing to do - it supports the company and it prevents any possibility of accidentally buying a fake doll
-always do research on feedback for a person. google their real name, email, and username to make sure they aren't on Bad Dolly Deals or somewhere like that.
-ask for as many pictures as you want. if the seller has nothing to hide, they will give you any picture you ask for and they should.
This is the end of the list of ideas that the person submitted to the anti recast group on facebook. Some of them are genuinely good ideas, (i.e. buying from the company, and asking for a thousand pictures) some of them may not fly, or just down right won't work (I generally wouldn't suggest asking for a paypal screenie if you have pictures of original paperwork).
I'll add a few of my own (They aren't really identify-y but if you are in doubt they may help you out).
- If a deal seems too good to be true, either push for pictures and more information or get out.
- Do ask for pictures of the inside of joints/torso.
- If a person's doll is not a company colour inquire as to how the doll was dyed (if it was) and ask for photos that the owner has of the progress of the resin change. - If they do not have photos, get out.
- Try not to buy second hand Volks limiteds. This one is hard, I know, but there are so many limited recasts available, it's usually better to sit it out unless the doll specifically comes with one or more of the following: Original face up, original box, original clothing, original paper work (never buy a doll if it doesn't have original paper work- However these can also be fabricated be cautious).
You are unlikely to find SDCs or MSD Volks dolls recasted (I haven't been able to find any), you are also unlikely to find FCS Volks dolls recasted (There are only one or two of the faces recasted at this time).