Summer 2022

[rei-usa]

Fuck. It is simply inconceivable how much solitary misery the rain brings.

[rei-usa]

New Plan: Stay in Svolvær tonight, camping and hiking in the rain, one last night. Tomorrow, go to Narvik via bus. Take the train to Stockholm (which has already been paid for via eurorail pass that I need to use up). From Stockholm to Prague for two nights. From Prague to to Naples, from Naples to Bari via bus. Bari to Tirana via Ferry. Tirana to Bitola via bus..which will officially be considered traveling. I feel like I have been vacationing compared to what I'm about to do. Although this "vacation" has not been that relaxing and I look exhausted.. I feel pretty great and still strong, which is a great feeling to share with new people I do meet. Caio for now.

[rei-usa]

Sitting in Svolvær trying to figure out a plan to Tromsø. I feel like I'm stuck in the middle of my route. There are several different options to take: 2 different buses accounting for 19 hours, Svolvær to Narvik to Tromsø. A bus to Harstad and then a ferry to Tromsø but the last ferry leaves before I arrive to Harstad. Take a ferry all the way back to Bodø and fly over to Tromsø (surprisingly the cheapest but I don't want to back track), hitch hike and God only knows how long that will take. I asked the bartender how he would get to Tromsø and he said a bust to Harstad and then a ferry. But....I guess I look like a girl without a plan because he handed me a piece of paper for a Norwegian music festival that starts tomorrow, Holla Festival. Oh my... that sounds like so much fun. If I stay here, accomodation is so expensive but a music festival in a town where the sun never sets. Sounds like an adventure in itself. Hmmmm.... I don't even want to go to the wedding anymore. I'm so terrible.. I do want to, but I just wish i had more time. Don't we all :/ I'm blessed for the time I do have.. What would you do?

[rei-usa]

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god ettermiddag from Bøstad!

What an eventful morning. Bed at 0200 after 7 hours of good conversations with Ondra. I learned how to play a new card game from Czech and we talked about our cultures, traveling, politics, our careers, long term dreams and a lot about family. A new friend for life. I cherish the connections I make with people. He hitchhiked his entire way from Oslo to Lofoten. There were several people I have met along the way that said it was a decent went to get around so I had to find out for myself.

Okay, left thumb out. First car within a min. Å -> Reine Thanks Peter from Czechia. Reine-> Leknes Rickard from Napp, Lofoten, a father of two. His daughter is 2 years younger then me. This was a longer ride, 45 min. but we both enjoyed the time and he thanked me for the good conversations. I learned a little bit about a lot from him regarding the landscape, hiking, fishing, what life was like before the major roads were built in 1992 (he said this and I said Wuhu!). Leknes-> Bakery thanks Neil from France. He was impressed I was from the states and asked how to travel if he doesn’t have a vaccine. I told him it was a good question and told him it wasn’t necessary because I don’t have one either. (= he was impressed and very kind. A carpenter.

Well, after the bakery, a solid six kilometers later, it started to rain, my left hip a little sore and left deltoid sore from holding my thumb out. Haha. My backpack may be a little too heavy but I have the bare minimum. One post will be a list of everything I have brought. 36lbs of weight that fluctuates with food consumption and gifts given and received.

I brought some little things to share like Bazooka bubble gum and white sage from California; small things but important to be able to carry and give things when meeting people that help along the way, no matter how small. I acquired some shampoos and 2 books that I was able to share too.

All in all, I’m on the bus now to Svolvær. I could have done this from the beginning but it’s much more fun to hitch hike and meet cool people. The bus is quiet and good for relaxing and catching up with writing.

[rei-usa]

I woke up in a warm bed for the first time since I was in Colorado. It was so nice, such luxury. The little things I am truly grateful for each and every day. A safe place to sleep, two feet, eyes, ears and hands to take me there with food in my belly. Giving thanks is so important.

Yesterday, I finally sent some things home. I sat at the only grocery store, The Joker, for about an hour and a half and saw three different people I had met from this small little community. It is the Sunday hangout spot for ice cream and flowers. It reminds me of a time when life was much more simple, appreciating the little things. I enjoyed watching the families come and go while I packed up 6lbs of stuff to the USA. I had leftover bread and fish from the night before. Bought $1.90 Norwegian cream cheese and enjoyed my time. I saw a familiar face that came over to say hi, Fronos. We talked for a couple of minutes and I asked him about how he acquired his bicycle as a foreigner; he found it in the trash! (Which I totally believe because the gears don’t work and the breaks are busted) I offered to rent it from him for cash or beer but he insisted that I just bring it back before he finished work. How nice of him. He is from Slovakia too. Him and his girlfriend came to Lofoten together to work seasonally. Gosh, how stinking cool.

Today, Unfortunately, the weather has been rainy all day. But if I allowed bad weather to cancel my plans, I would have done nothing the entire time I was here. Yesterday was the first day of sunshine in the two weeks I have been here. The first time my solar phone charger turned on.

The bike ride today was wet and cold but I had a smile on my face after 4 of 23km. I would have gone much farther but uphill against the wind in the rain with no gears is tough stuff.

Despite the shitty, shitty weather…I don’t want to leave here. This country is so beautiful.

[rei-usa]

I had a dream last night that I left very early from this home to go see my mom. I had a heavy feeling of guilt because I left this family home without saying goodbye. She reassured me that it was okay and we enjoyed our time together.

Seeing her felt so natural and I didn’t think much of it when I woke up in the middle of the night. But now…

I’m not familiar with my dreams when I sleep. Ask me why and I’ll tell you.

Mom I miss you so much.

[rei-usa]

[rei-usa]

[rei-usa]

I am behind in my writing but I might as well catch up by writing.

I finally slept more than 4 hours. The first time in more than two weeks. Thanks to a Benadryl! Judge all you want but it was necessary. Believe it or not, my body just goes and goes and goes… especially when the sun never sets.

A slow start to the day but a good day.

It was FINALLY sunny today. The first time since I have been in this country. It has been dreadful weather and I almost considered flying out of here. It has been miserable honestly. Two nights ago I woke up to what felt like a hurricane in my tent and was holding it together in the store while my sleeping bag was wet. It doesn’t matter how much money you spend or how nice your products are, camping in the rain long term is not sustainable (gosh I dislike that word but it fits the context)

I forked put the cash to stay in what advertised as a really nice place, and the heater was broken and the wifi didn’t work. UGH! I don’t need these things but why even pay $304. It was an emergency I felt like, I was breaking down. I woke up to what was the nicest breakfast though. I don’t even eat breakfast really but it was included. The kindest service staff and cooks working on display for guests to watch. Little to my knowledge until the end, everyone was from Slovakia. Martina, Ondra, Frono, Misha.. I told them I was backpacking and they were amazed at why I was staying in such a, what was advertised, a nice place. I couldn’t deal with the hurricane outside and although the heater and wifi were not working, it was better than holding my tent together all night. That night seemed the worst too. I paid all of that money for a shelter. They were sad we didn’t meet a day before because they opened their home to me for the rest of my stay. I declined yesterday because the weather was okay. I went for a hike up Reine and when I finished, I saw Ondra walking towards me. He was looking for me! 8km down the road and be found me! How cute. He is a 29 y/o surgeon taking a break to travel around and work in new places for free accommodation. He made it clear he doesn’t need to, but wants to. We walked around Reine (Rye-nuh) which means queen in Spanish! He mentioned that he always wanted to catch a fish. Well lucky for him, I brought my fishing pole and I kid you not… I tossed a 25g weight into a cloudy carra and caught it on the first try. He caught his first fish in the second try! 2 mackerel in 3 tries. A phenomenal ratio and I was a little nervous considering I had tried to take Leanne a few days prior and we didn’t catch anything despite me being there for 4 hours. But it was a success! We learned how to filet them together and cooked them at my campsite. It was a very special experience for the both of us. Fishing is so rewarding and fun to share with other people. The gift of food and life.

Waking up today was a late start but a great day. I sent some things home. 2900grams of stuff (6.1lbs). Hopefully it makes it there. I met Ondra and he insisted I go for a hike with him and stay with him and the family. They made me dinner and now I’m laying on a mattress in their living room with a heater and warm food in my belly after a long, long, cold wet hike. A great dayin the sunshine though, finally.

Brief details but had to get it out. Pictures tomorrow.

[rei-usa]

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Bodø was really cool. A fisherman’s town. I made some friends and learned how to fish off of the coast. Upon arriving, I didn’t have a plan… imagine that. I sat in the train station wondering how I had just spent almost the entire train ride talking with strangers.

The weather was cold and rainy. I saw three girls get out of with backpacks that looked loaded for camping and wondered why I didn’t share my time talking with them. No regrets because it wasn’t meant to be. I watched them load up on a taxi with a plan in mind. Good for them. I asked so many people to accompany me and no one had the interest, time, money, time or desire.

I found a hostel on booking, $89. Ouch. Okay. Well, here it goes…

I checked in with Hugo, who was helpful. My room was the size of a large closet with two twin bunk beds. I dropped my things off and went for a walk. Fishing boats, sail boats, ships, tug boats, coast guard, politi, whaling boats… all of the boats at the wharf! I found myself at the end of the pier which was about a 30 min walk from the hostel. I found myself there because I saw people fishing. I wanted to ask questions about how to properly fish up here considering I had purchased a pole and lures. I was timid to try but eager to watch. I met Olga from Poland and her Partner Dalibore from Czech Republic. They were happy to entertain the tourists by showing them how to fish for dinner and cut the head off. I was impressed and thankful I made my way over there. We talked for an hour or so about fishing, the area, the country, the healthcare system, how Norway needs nurses. <- one of the richest countries is starving for nurses because they don’t pay for a nursing education and just import them from other countries and pay them $$. But that’s not why I chose this profession. I thanked them and told them I would be back in an hour. The weather turned and I decided to just go for a beer with my fishing pole in hand in case the weather changed.

The pub I stumbled into Dama Di. One of the coolest pubs full of local art in every corner of the drinking den. The sun literally never sets in the summer so it’s nice to be in a dark , cozy pub that felt warm. Joaquim was my bartender and quite charming. I met two other lads, Simon (pronounced Seamen) and Rich. They made the evenings quite fun and coses me into staying an extra night which ended up being two. It’s illegal to purchase alcohol after 8pm in the stores in Norway and the pubs stop serving booze at 0300. We finished our last beer at 0330 and they invited me to an ‘after party’ but check out was at 11. I had no interest in pulling an all nighter. They offered me to stay for free in one of their extra apartments and a part of me stayed thinking it may have been true because they were so genuine. But important to not rely on anyone else.

Check out came and went. I overstayed my welcome at the hostel in the living room until 1400 and just made my way downstairs to try and make a plan. This is when I met Leanne from Holland.

[rei-usa]

[rei-usa]

It's quite disheartening to write so much to have the computer shut off and restart without saving any work. Yes this is still a thing for me.

Train to Bodø (Bohdah) July 17, 2022

As beautiful as Trondheim is, I felt stuck. I guess because it wasn't my 'destination'. Just trying to get somewhere called Lofoten Islands.

The train was just a little shy of 10 hours and about 700 kilometers farther north. The landscape was breathtakingly beautiful It was hard to keep eye contact when people did want to talk. I sat in the cafe for almost the entire time. Do I need a seat reservation if I just sit in the cafe? Not a single person asked for a ticket but I had one this time. Maybe that's how it works?

I was excited to have the time to myself and write, which I was able to a little. The moment I sat down, the guy next to me introduced himself as John from minnesota and his wife Carrie behind him (I laughed to myself). He asked if I spoke English and if I was Norwegian all before I could introduce myself. I said, "yes, no, and I am traveling from Colorado". Thise two were a piece of work but that could be a whole blog in itself.

I enjoyed sitting on the hard plastic bench in the cafe much more than talking with someone about how good of a president the states has.

ANYWAY! By that time, I was ready for a beer but it was only 1037. So, I brought my water bottle and empty coffee cup to purchase a sparkling water to justify me sitting in the cafe. I tried to buy a coffee but it was given to me. Oh, the little things are so nice. That saved me $4.

Watching the world go by on the most beautiful train ride, an older man walked by after purchasing a glass of white wine and I held my coffee up and said "Skol!" He walked back by me and returned with an extra plastic wine glass. Haldor, a Norwegian Native, 81, retired from IBM and on his way to vacation with his family. He was proud to tell me about his high position he held with the largest computer organization in the world. My comment, "before Apple Macintosh". We were both pleased to have company for a little bit and I was happy to have free wine, especially after internally discoursing about not buying a $9+ beer. He started to ask about me and my adventures. An hour later, he parted back to his seat; yet, found himself coming back three different times to tell me something different about the Lofoten Islands. By the second time, I knew it would be hard for him to say goodbye. Fortunately, his stop was 6 hours before mine. He didn't want to say goodbye, he had tears in his piercing blue nordic eyes and told me that he felt like he was falling in love all over again, that it felt like a dream and he wanted to come with me as he hugged and kissed my cheek. He wanted more but NO SIR! I told him that he is living my dream one day, to go on vacation with my family and grandchildren for a week in a camper van around the fjords of central Norway. He wasn't going to let me go so I asked him for his email and I'll send one to see how he is. What on Earth did I do to this man in the two hours of off on interaction? Gave him attention with eye contact and conversation. And life goes on.

Shortly after he left, I met another train companion, Aydn. Truly a genuine person. Sometimes you can just feel when people are good. Originally from Azerbaijan and fell in love with a Norwegian, had two children and is now divorced. She studies astrology. I talk presently because we still correspond. She consumed most of my time but in a good way. I really did enjoy our conversations, all 6 hours of it. We shared personal stories about people, traveling, connections, birthdays, different lifetimes. She was snacks and she invited me to join her and her family in Ballstad, Lofoten. It was the first time she took the long train alone so she was lonely. I was running on fumes and by the time the conversation had ended, we arrived in Bodø. And I didn't take one moment of the train ride to plan, imagine that.