The Sky Over San Francisco
It starts in September, sometimes even at the end of August. In July the city is still enveloped by a thick cloud of fog. âSummer is coming!â, Iâll mournfully concede at the end of May, after yet another cold al fresco brunch, and dig out my thick tights. âThe coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco!â, the Macyâs clerk will quip when you realize that all your old tights had holes in them. Poor Mark Twain. I often wonder whether part of the cityâs seismic activity is caused by the writer spinning in his grave at being misquoted so often. âWait until Septemberâ, the Peetâs barista will add as he hands you the second hot chocolate of the day, âthatâs when it gets nice.â It is a rare Californian understatement that does little justice to the coming shift. Because in September the sky over San Francisco is on fire. Â
The timing helps too. Back in London, the sun seems to have gone when you finally manage to leave the office â eager perhaps to avoid rush hour. In San Francisco, you are greeted by a pink crimson sky, like the fiery wings of a phoenix spread over the horizon. During peak September Sunset, social media is flooded with pictures of fluffy candy floss clouds and streaks of pink across the sky. Your entire Twitter stream resembles an Apple screensaver. Instagram registers 10 on the #nofilter scale.
It takes time to process. Not this photographic frenzy but the light. The light is different in San Francisco. It has the characteristic Californian golden hue mixed with the dusty haziness of the fog, giving it an unsettling wooly texture. My jetlag only lasted a week, but I felt jetlighted for much longer.
Our first month in the city was spent in a corporate apartment high up in one of the skyscrapers that have sprung up around mid Market. The feeling of dislocation was intense. I feared my feet might leave the perfectly polished parquet, my body floating, ping ponging between the walls like an astronaut. The walls â I later noted â had been designed in such way as to camouflage the lack of bookcases, each curve implemented to disguise the transient nature of the place. Bookcases ground you. But mine were in a container somewhere across the Atlantic. So I kept floating.
Every day, Iâd place my laptop on the dining table, a minimalist glass circle that made me feel like an 80s art dealer, and which just added to the clinical elegance of the place. Before me stretched the city bathed in this nebulous yet strangely blinding light. I could see City Hall with its golden domes glistening in the distance. The different grey hues that composed this west coast neoclassical pastiche fascinated me. Or to be more precise, I was enthralled by this new found super power to distinguish so many different kinds of grey. It wasnât just City Hall. Every building within my field of vision was set in an infinite spectrum of greys, browns, yellows and creams. My feet started finding the ground again, helped by lunch breaks circling the neigbourhood in a bid to create familiarity through repetition, as well as long weekend walks to other less grey parts of the city. But I never tired of the concrete.
Tourist postcards immortalise the Painted Ladies, that row of cheerfully coloured Victorian mansions. But these technicolour terraces could redeem even a bleak London sky. Such picturesque images do not eloquently convey the true power of the golden Californian light. That everything just looks good, that everyone is rendered instantly more photogenic. It is no accident that Hollywood is based in the south of the state, away from the fickle fog of the north. And once you get used the golden light, you start to miss it whenever you leave. And not just because you can add #nofilter to Instagram.












