costumes are my fandom @sartorialonce - Tumblr Blog

Hello, I was wondering if you had any information about the fabrics used in Emma Swan’s main white Camelot dress?

Personal knowledge, no. I've never been great at positively identifying fabrics from photographs, but I can tell you what I'd do if I were cosplaying this outfit.

As an aside, I'd forgotten just how pretty this costume is. Being white, a lot of its detail is lost on film, but there's so much rich texture going on here.

This costume has four visible fabrics, plus whatever kind of base layer there is for the main dress. Given the weight of it, I'm inclined to say the base layer is a knit, but not a skin-tight knit. The visible layers are:

Main dress: probably gauze — given the amount of translucence, probably double gauze. Right next to the #1, you can see the very narrow seam. This dress (or at least the skirt) is most likely six panels all the way around, with that center one gathered at the empire waist. Again, this is over some kind of base layer.

First overdress: some kind of crepe, given the pebbly texture. In the ultra-hi-res you can actually see fuzz on this fabric, so it may be wool crepe. The crenelated trim is applied.

Second overdress: some kind of heavily embroidered fabric, probably an upholstery fabric. I'm afraid I probably can't give much more guidance than that.

Cloak: also some kind of heavily embroidered fabric, also probably an upholstery fabric. Actually I'm nearly certain I saw curtains made of that fabric at some point.

Hope this helps!

#emma swan #ouat costume details

recycledmoviecostumes

This blue and white striped dress was first seen being worn by Ginnifer Goodwin as Queen Snow in a 2016 episode of Once Upon a Time. It was spotted again on an extra in a 2020 episode of Legends of Tomorrow entitled A Head of Her Time.

Costume Credit: Ann-Mari

E-mail Submissions: [email protected]

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I really love all your analysis of the costumes on OUAT. Sometimes when I’m bored I go back and scroll through your tags and read them again! I was wondering if you had any opinions on the costumes from the ball at Prince Eric’s castle in 3x06. They always looked so out of place to me. The skirts are short (which I don’t ever remember OUAT doing for a ball scene) and some of the skirts have trains which looks so weird for short skirts. (Part 1)

Is there some in-universe reason (they live by water so they don’t want their skirts to get wet?)? It’s just so weird when Ariel in the little mermaid movie had such full skirts. Like the outfit Snow is wearing looks like something a 13 year old would get forced to wear to a wedding. Thanks for reading/answering (part 2)

I just reblogged a discussion that I had a long time ago on my main blog! The thrust of it is, yeah, I agree with you. It was a weird choice. I think the artistic reason was “she has legs, let’s show them” but it just wound up being weird within the show’s universe. I also don’t think it’s terribly flattering on either actress, but the rest of the costumes weren’t flattering on any of the extras either. There’s a woman wearing cowboy boots. And a Suspiciously White and Blonde Jasmine Cosplayer. Weird choices all around.

(By the way, that discussion was prompted by me noticing the trim fabric on Ariel’s dress was the same as one of the Ice Queen’s a year later.)

I liked Eric’s costume. It was pretty. It’s a shame the rest of the ball seemed like it was lifted from a juniors’ department clearance rack the week after homecoming.

Thanks for the ask! :)

#ariel #ouat costume details #snow white #and the homecoming dance #choices were made #they weren’t good but they were made

darthmelyanna

@saxgoddess25 sayeth:

I just had a good giggle at “homecoming dance.”

Well, I’m told that traditionally girls wore long skirts for prom and short skirts for homecoming. ;)

In all seriousness, when I recognized the repeated fabric, I had to take a minute to look at my life, look at my choices.

saxgoddess25

I wouldn’t know. I never went to prom and I only went to one homecoming. I wore jeans and a flannel shirt, like a proper baby dyke. :D

(even though I’m pan and didn’t even know I was that back then. Hey, it was the early 90s in rural Oregon. It was a thing.)

freifraufischer

Fairy tale homecoming.

abovethemists

The short dresses will never not be bizarre to me. It looks so out of place compared to every other ball we’ve seen in the Enchanted Forest.

darthmelyanna

There’s more horrors at the Fairy Tale Homecoming:

Second girl from the right (next to Suspiciously Tall and Blonde Jasmine Cosplayer) is wearing a knee-length dress with a train. There’s at least three or four other girls in this scene wearing similar dresses. This one is particularly odd, because I think the baldric/sash/thingie is actually part of the train? And the skirt hem is weird. I honestly think they bought a bunch of dresses out of the junior section, stuck longer petticoats under some of them, and put trains on them to make them look like like department store dresses.

I get that they went with short dresses in this because Ariel’s got legs and we should see them, but the silhouette of Ariel’s skirt looks extremely odd at that length. I generally hate high-low hems with extreme prejudice, but this one’s actually kind of nice. It moves well, even if the hips are weird. The shoulder strap placement also makes this particular dance move look a bit awkward.

abovethemists

Is…is that woman on the left wearing boots? Is she performing at the Grand Ole Opry? What is this hellscape?

darthmelyanna

She is. Yikes.

The sad thing is that Eric’s costume is so pretty. Nothing else here matches it in quality, even if there are threads hanging from it in the back.

freifraufischer

I’m just wondering about the hot pink sleeveless number.

darthmelyanna

Oh, but she’s wearing gloves that go all the way up to her armpits!

scarimor-deactivated20180521

“Note for extras: the cost-cutting imperative has decreed a budget for wardrobe surplus to requirements. Please bring your own costumes to work. Check the thrift stores, raid your local am-dram stocks. Those of you with children may want to check their dressing-up boxes for anything we can knock together on set.”

darthmelyanna

You jest, but there really is a dramatic difference in quality as you get further from the leading roles. In this picture you can see that Cora and Eva’s dresses are both really nice, the dancers’ dresses are a bit cheap but move nicely, and anyone else standing along the perimeter is in a cheap Halloween costume.

Can I ask what you think of Sansa's coronation dress in the series finale of Game of Thrones?

I don’t watch the show and haven’t seen any images of it that were bright enough to see any detail, just a dark dress on a dark background.

I will admit that what I’ve seen of the show’s costuming has been really underwhelming to me, but I can’t comment on that dress because I haven’t seen it.

#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #got spoilers

magicallythey

Black Panther deserves to win the Oscar for best costume design based solely on the fact that it’s the only movie whose costumes haven’t been done and done and redone again. like i understand we all love the big poofy colorful fancy dresses of the 18th century but my god they’ve been done. Black Panther went above and beyond to incorporate various African tribes. Ms. Ruth E. Carter took her time envisioning designs based on a world untoucjed by colonizers, and the results are

beautiful

modern

colorful

and aid in the movie’s storytelling in a way the costume design of the other nominated movies simply does not.

again, Black Panther deserves to win the Oscar for Costume Design and Ms. Ruth E. Carter deserves so much praise for the beautiful masterpieces she created

I remembered your posts about Emma's wedding dress, and when I saw this dress on screen, I was like "omg she needs to see this horror!" (also how I was not following you? but anyway!). Alura Zor-El, Supergirl, episode 3x20. The actress is Erica Durance if I'm correct. It might be the only costume in the episode but anyway it's the light blue long dress. Thanks, I can't wait to hear your opinion! :)

Here you go!

Alura Zor-El, requested by @daisysdanvers

(This isn’t a show I watch, so this is going to be largely an aesthetic post.)

So my first reaction to this was “huh, that’s almost pretty enough for awards season.” Swap in a prettier lace and remove the Superman logo, and you’ve got something that would probably work on a red carpet.

And that’s not really in its favor. The impression I’ve gotten from the Supergirl costume department is that they never take an idea and go nuts with it. Alura is an alien. She shouldn’t look like she’s a B-lister at the Oscars. This dress should be more alien. None of the choices here were particularly bold, from the style to the color to the anemic trim. I mean, they used a different fabric for the sleeves and yet there’s barely any contrast. (Aside: those zippers are really awkward; why didn’t they get a stretch fabric instead?)

There are fit problems too. The sleeves are noticeably short, the waist seems a bit too snug, and the bust is a mess. The darts are about two inches too high. The horizontal dart should be at the level of the bust apex, and the vertical dart should stop an inch lower. These darts are dramatically too high and it makes her bust appear to be sagging when it isn’t. I get that they probably started making the costume before the actress was cast, but in my opinion there’s no excuse for this. No good costume designer should assume that an actress old enough for this part will have a bust as perky as a 20-year-old’s.

Also, I’m side-eyeing whatever producer looked at the concept sketch of this and didn’t immediately start singing “Let It Go.”

#supergirl costume discussion #alura zor el

Hi! To ask your opinion about a costume, do you need links to the screencaps or it's enough to tell you the show/episode/character? :) thanks so much!

Show/episode/character is fine. Actor name is also very useful. If you know of a good source for screen caps, I’ll take it, but it’s not mandatory. :)

ETA: If the character has more than one costume in an episode, do let me know which costume you mean!

Amy Santiago, role-playing

Honestly I don’t have a lot of analysis to offer on this costume, except to say it is so good. That top is so accurate that I really wonder if the costume department actually located the original Holly Gennaro costume. (Color difference comes down to lighting. The first was significantly brightened by someone else, and resolution in the movie is much lower than in the show.) If it is a copy, they did a phenomenal job replicating it. The narrow lapel, the dropped shoulder, the linebacker shoulder pads—it’s perfect. Ridiculous, but perfect.

#brooklyn 99 #brooklyn 99 costumes #amy santiago #die hard #holly gennaro #die hard costumes

sartorialonce

Hi! I recently discovered your blog and I have been binge reading it, I love the detail of your insights. I'm curious as to what you think about those velvety form-fitting dresses Regina wore in seasons 1 and 2 (I'm talking about the blue one in Fruit of the Poisonous Tree, the burgundy one from The Heart is a Lonely Hunter and the one she wears in Queen of Hearts when she makes the deal with Hook.)

(Other anon who asked about spinner!Rumple—if you see this could you please resend? I got the email but Tumblr seems to have eaten the ask.)

sartorialonce

(Never mind, other anon, it resurfaced.)

I was always hoping for high res set photos of those dresses, but alas. I actually wonder if they got destroyed during filming or in storage—velvet isn’t the sturdiest fabric. Those are on my list to do for the rewatch that’s going on when their episodes come around. :)(Other anon who asked about spinner!Rumple—if you see this could you please resend? I got the email but Tumblr seems to have eaten the ask.)

Fashions of the Coronation of the Good Queen Regina

I’ve been inundated with requests to talk about the costumes in this scene. I do intend to write longer posts about the more interesting pieces once higher-resolution screen caps appear, but I thought it would also be fun to do a sort of red-carpet rundown review of the costumes at the coronation. A thousand thanks to @queen-mabs-revenge who provided the screen caps!

From left to right:

Robin, that’s a very cute dress, but maybe the spaghetti straps are a touch casual for your aunt’s coronation? I do appreciate the necklace, though, it’s very you but appropriate for the venue.

Alice, YOUR DRESS IS SO PRETTY I WANT TO SCREAM. Seriously, I was hoping and hoping for more high-res images from this scene specifically for this dress. The color is gorgeous, so is the texture, and the neckline is the perfect shape for her. Also you two are wearing matching jewelry and it’s kind of adorbs.

Wish!Hook, I wish you’d worn a tie. I’m actually kind of relieved you showed up in a suit but some color would have been nice. You’re not the Piratical Prince of Darkness anymore.

Special shoutout to Geppetto in the next row, because I love Tony Amendola.

There will be more words about this later. I just want to say that I had heard spoilers about Emma wearing the jacket over a gown and thought it was incredibly dumb, but this is honestly kind of adorable.

Her: Disappointed that we didn’t see the ballgown from 7.01 again. My love for it knows no bounds. This is nice, though. Fits her well and the bling is appropriate.

Him: Not bad. It’s a nice-looking suit but I’d have liked a more colorful tie. But, um, not the tie on the guy behind him.

Lucy: is adorable as always. This dress is pretty much perfect. The lace is impeccable, and the style and styling are very appropriate for her age.

Ella: Yeah, I still like that dress from this angle too.

Emma: HOLY COW, COULD THEY NOT HAVE GOTTEN A DRESS THAT WASN’T FALLING OFF YOUR CHEST, HONEY.

Hook: WHY ARE YOU DRESSED LIKE A PIRATE PLEASE TELL ME YOU HAVEN’T REGRESSED YOU HAVE A CHILD WHO SPITS UP DO YOU WANT HER SPITTING UP ON LEATHER I DIDN’T THINK SO.

Regina: Yeah, best dressed in this frame, even though there are some criticisms to come.

Seriously, that dress is just hanging off her.

Her: Love. Looks better than its original appearance.

Him: Love. Looks better than its original appearance.

The collar really needed to go. (The lace ruffles at the sleeve hems also needed to go.) And I think this shot nicely highlights what felt off about this dress compared to the EQ gowns. The EQ gowns had shoulder pads. On this one the line between sleeve and bodice is kind of awkward.

Tiana, this dress is so much more flattering than anything you wore previously in this season. I love it. Would have liked to see it with the Sabine hair, though.

I always hated this gown, but I suppose they didn’t have a more festive look available in Zelena’s wardrobe.

Aww, Smee looks surprisingly fancy. And there’s Blue not in that awful costume I want to light on fire.

And that’s a wrap! Details on select costumes to come!

#regina mills #alice jones #snow white #prince charming #wish hook #robin mills #henry mills #lucy mills #cinderella ii #tiana #zelena mills #mr smee #emma swan #captain hook #the blue fairy #ouat costume rundown

I’ve gotten a couple asks in the last day which are critical of characterization or writing. I don’t think I’ve ever said this here (so it’s no one’s fault but mine): I’m happy to talk about those subjects on my main blog ( @darthmelyanna ) and you’re welcome to send me asks there, but on this blog I have tried to keep the commentary centered around costuming and away from criticisms of character or plot. I have followers from all over Once fandom, and it’s been my goal since I started this side blog to make sure its content would be something everyone could enjoy.

Again, happy to chat about other topics with you, but please direct those asks to my main blog.

And a reminder—I don’t want to have to tag things with spoilers on this blog, so I will not be posting anything about the finale until next week. (Can’t believe it’s almost over.)

sartorialonce

What are your thoughts on the 3 costume designers for Once Upon a Time that have worked on the show? Do you have favorite and least favorite costumes from all 3,and which designer do you prefer?

In the final season, two of the three designers (Daniel Lester and Allisa Swanson) have done excellent work in utilizing the vast collection of costumes they already had on hand, as well as blending new pieces into the show. Overall I feel like the new pieces this season have been of a higher quality than some in previous seasons, but because they’ve been making extensive use of the stuff already in wardrobe, they’ve had fewer pieces to make from scratch. That may not be a fair comparison.

I’ve also liked the Hyperion Heights costumes better than the Storybrooke costumes. I feel less like I’m watching people in relatively low-paying jobs run around in high-end clothes. But this is just a matter of taste.

Bob Blackman’s contribution to the series is more of a puzzle. He’s only credited in the first episode of the season, which leads me to believe he was brought on primarily to do the Cinderella gown. It’s without question my favorite costume of the entire series. Blackman is an incredible designer and I would have loved to see him tackle the whole season, but alas, it was not to be.

As for other favorites and least favorites, Alice’s costumes this year have been really strong. I’ve been less enamored of Tiana’s. Lucy’s have been good too, very appropriate for her age in both the EF and HH.

Of Eduardo’s work, once again, I love the other Alice’s adventure costume from late in the Wonderland spinoff. Rumple’s imp costumes are wacky and unsettling. I love Snow’s dress from 1.11, Regina’s riding costume from 2.02, young Cora’s masquerade gown, Hook’s German submariner looks from season 6, Regina’s blue and purple gown from the first season—it’s hard to come up with just a few, really.

The failures are fewer but in some cases more extreme. I hate the Blue Fairy’s original costume and don’t really care for the second either. Elsa’s blue dress still amazes me in how hard it tries to look like the dress from the movie and how hard it fails. Most of Ingrid’s costumes are just bad. And Emma’s wedding dress is awful, though I, um, wouldn’t say Eduardo designed it at all.

darthmelyanna

@emberkyrlee said: Would you say the least of Eduarado’s are those that are most closely based off of already existent designs?

Not necessarily. Merida’s costume was fine. Maleficent’s second was fine. Ingrid’s were original and kind of terrible.

The deal with Elsa’s is that I think they made some very poor fabric choices, and they weren’t helped by the fact that the original dress was animated and didn’t have to obey the laws of physics.

sartorialonce

Whoops, replied from the wrong account.

What are your thoughts on the 3 costume designers for Once Upon a Time that have worked on the show? Do you have favorite and least favorite costumes from all 3,and which designer do you prefer?

That’s tough to answer; it’s nearly impossible to separate the work of the three season 7 designers from Eduardo Castro’s work. I really can’t say enough good things about the groundwork Eduardo laid in the first six seasons. I have talked about it before (and will again soon, although in the context of the Star Wars franchise), but it bears repeating: one of the reasons the costuming has been so strong in Once is that early on Eduardo established a design language for the Enchanted Forest. It’s not just a cost- and time-saving mechanism when you reuse patterns. It immediately identifies the characters in those costumes as coming from the same society. And early in the first season, Eduardo had solidified the look of the EF. In the final season, two of the three designers (Daniel Lester and Allisa Swanson) have done excellent work in utilizing the vast collection of costumes they already had on hand, as well as blending new pieces into the show. Overall I feel like the new pieces this season have been of a higher quality than some in previous seasons, but because they’ve been making extensive use of the stuff already in wardrobe, they’ve had fewer pieces to make from scratch. That may not be a fair comparison. I’ve also liked the Hyperion Heights costumes better than the Storybrooke costumes. I feel less like I’m watching people in relatively low-paying jobs run around in high-end clothes. But this is just a matter of taste. Bob Blackman’s contribution to the series is more of a puzzle. He’s only credited in the first episode of the season, which leads me to believe he was brought on primarily to do the Cinderella gown. It’s without question my favorite costume of the entire series. Blackman is an incredible designer and I would have loved to see him tackle the whole season, but alas, it was not to be. As for other favorites and least favorites, Alice’s costumes this year have been really strong. I’ve been less enamored of Tiana’s. Lucy’s have been good too, very appropriate for her age in both the EF and HH. Of Eduardo’s work, once again, I love the other Alice’s adventure costume from late in the Wonderland spinoff. Rumple’s imp costumes are wacky and unsettling. I love Snow’s dress from 1.11, Regina’s riding costume from 2.02, young Cora’s masquerade gown, Hook’s German submariner looks from season 6, Regina’s blue and purple gown from the first season—it’s hard to come up with just a few, really. The failures are fewer but in some cases more extreme. I hate the Blue Fairy’s original costume and don’t really care for the second either. Elsa’s blue dress still amazes me in how hard it tries to look like the dress from the movie and how hard it fails. Most of Ingrid’s costumes are just bad. And Emma’s wedding dress is awful, though I, um, wouldn’t say Eduardo designed it at all.

You had mentioned in an earlier post about Alice's costuming. Still got a draft of that somewhere that can get you kickstarted? :)

I haven’t started writing that yet. When I mentioned it before, I believe I was waiting in hopes of high res images.

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costumes are my fandom