Shaved Nut

A blog about traditional wet shaving, in New Zealand, and safety razors.

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Quick Shaving Tip #7

Trying a new shaving cream? Wait till the weekend in case you have a reaction. You don't want to turn up to work with a red spotty face!

Some people suggest you may also want to some of the cream on your forearm first. In my experience, nothing compares to testing it on your face.

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Proraso Menthol (Green) Soap Review

I've been using Proraso menthol "green" shaving soap for the past few weeks. This is part of the "new" formula range that was introduced in early 2012.

The Proraso product range is a fairly popular one. It's probably the easiest brand of shaving consumables to be found, on the number of online stores, here in New Zealand.

Here is my review on Proraso Menthol shaving soap.

Invented in 1948 by Piero Martelli, Proraso soap comes packaged in a nice retro printed box that pays homage to that fact.

This is in contrast to the actual container the soap comes in; It's kind-of odd looking. Its odd shape definitely gives it a unique look. If this was the goal then, well, success. I think the best way to describe it is a bowl shape with inharmonious proportions. It's made of sturdy plastic, a good thing, and actually functions pretty well. The bowl opens up wide enough to get a decent sized brush in there and work up a later, directly on the soap.

The consistency of the soap is also interesting. It's spongy when dry. Proraso also offer a tube variation where the consistency is creamy rather than solidy.

After soaking my brush under the hot tap and shaking out the excess water, as usual, I lathered up in the Proraso soap's bowl. Result: amazing lather effortlessly.

And this was quality later, too; both volume and slickness. I also tried loading the soap from the Proraso bowl, but lather in my own ceramic bowl. I found this to be slightly easier (more room to swirl, more room to manage excess lather) and achieved the same result. Week days I tend to lather on my face more than in a bowl. Again, great result.

Proraro Menthol does tend to leave my face a little dry. My skin is generally on the dryer side so this doesn't particularly help, but in saying that it's not super drying or anything like that. A good balm aftershave combats the mild dryness.

This is menthol based; no two ways about it. This stuff on your face feels like what peppermint toothpaste is to your mouth. If a super cooling sensation is not your thing then you probably won't appreciate the sensation. As for me? I love it. My Col. Conk shaving soap had the same affect - turned out it was just a my face having a bad reaction to the product and left my face red.

I haven't commented on the scent. To me it isn't strong but my nose is pretty bad at smelling so I'm really not qualified to even attempt it.

Verdict: This one is staying in my rotation. The mild dryness I get isn't going to deter me as the menthol cooling and easy lather build keeps me coming back for more.

After some Proraso? Smell Like a Man is the cheapest online store in New Zealand.

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NZ Shop, Smell Like a Man, Now Selling Mühle Safety Razors

New Zealand operated traditional shaving store, Smell Like a Man, has taken the next step stocking hardware, ranging from Mühle safety razors to HJM (made by Mühle) brushes.

The announcement on the Smell Like a Man website reads:

While our intention was never to get into the hardware side of things, due to requests we've decided to stock the traditional shaving essentials!

That's right, we've only chosen the highest of recommended shaving gear for any traditional wet shaving beginner.

To kick things off, we're offering a very limited $99 beginners kit. Don't be fooled, this is quality shaving gear!

Includes:

Muhle r89 or r41 DE safety razor

Hjm brush - black, ivory or tortoise

Muhle bowl

If you like the sound of this deal, you can check it out at www.smelllikeaman.co.nz

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Classic

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It Ain't Gonna Sell: Blade Box? It's "Cute!"

Wanna grab a vintage plastic box? I bet it's rare! plus, it's cute! "perfect for your special studs" or so the seller thinks so.

The seller of this listing, titled "Cute! Tiny Sliding Lid Vintage Plastic Box.Razor?", is hoping to sell this "tiny" box for $16.00 with Buy Now or, if you like to take a risk once in awhile, $15.50 as the starting bid.

Worth it? check out the description:

Very cute!  A tiny perfectly made minature box with a sliding lid.  IWas this a vintage Razor Blade Box ??  Made from a hard creamy early plastic; has a celluloid look to it.  Perfect for your special studs or fine neck chains etc!  In excellent condition apart from some barely visible rub marks on the base.  45 mm long x just under 35mm wide  just under 15mm thick or deep

Old? Probably. Vintage? Probably not. 

I asked the seller just how old this box was. His response: 

it was from an estate many years ago, I am not sure of its age..perhaps 1940's 1950's?

Could be true, I'm not really disputing the age; but rather the uncertainty of the objects age and use. How do you justify the $15.50 price tag when it could literally be only 8 years old? and it's intended purpose could have been to store buttons...

Oh well, let's see if it sells.

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Quick Shaving Tip #6

Simply running the head of your razor under the hot tap before you shave, takes that cold chill off that first stroke.

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Razor of the Week: 1940's British Thin Handle Tech

I've chosen my Thin Handle Tech as razor of the week as this is one of my favourite razors to shave with. This razor stays in permanent rotation.

The Badger and Blade wiki sums up the Tech nicely, and rather than re-writing what they have to say, here it is verbatim:

The Gillette Tech was notable as the first Gillette razor sold with a solid safety bar rather than an open comb guard. From a manufacturing standpoint, the Tech was the first safety razor made with a guard plate stamped from sheet metal. Previously guard plates had been machined or swaged (die-forged) from stock. This technique was patented as US 2,270,388, filed 9 Aug 1938 and issued 20 Jan 1942, and gave the Tech its characteristic diamond-indented guard plate. This depression stiffens the plate. Some UK variants do not have this feature, and may have been stamped from thicker sheet-metal, or may have been machined or swaged.

Gillette claimed the Tech made advancements in 4 "points" of Technology, all of which were widely advertised, including "The ridgid blade support speeds shaving", "Non-skid tread protects face", "Cleans quickly - never clogs" and "Solid bar guard assures comfort". Throughout the razor's production, Gillette positioned the Tech as a low-cost model of it's razor lineup, selling for years for 49 cents for the nickel version, and 98 cents for the gold-plated version.

The Gillette Tech was also a common gift to American soldiers from WWII through Vietnam from the American Red Cross in care packages.

I acquired my Thin Handle Tech in January of 2014. It was my second ever purchase of vintage razors. This particular razor was purchased on Trade Me and came with another unknown branded razor. The pair cost me $21 NZD and I later sold the unknown branded razor for $15. The difference being $6 for the Thin Handle Tech - pretty good deal if you ask me.

About a quarter of my collection are techs. However, I have only one Thin Handle Tech - and it's the only Tech that stays in permanent rotation (I'm yet to try my fat handle Tech. I hear it's many a wet shaver's favourite). In true Tech fashion, it's a mild razor that gives me a very comfortable shave. As usual, I pair this with a Feather blade.

It's your basic three piece razor. It has a nice grippy handle and a decent weight, weighing in at 43 grams. It's British made, as are most of the razors that make their way to New Zealand and Australia, and from the 1940's.

My particular one has a little bit of brassing around the ring near the top, as can be seen in the first photo. The printed "Gillette" logo has also since disappeared. Beside these it is in a fairly decent condition.

I think I have only ever seen one other for sale in New Zealand. It was either that or a Fat Handle Tech; sometimes it's hard to distinguish when you don't get a clear photo.

If you like mild razors, I recommend you give this one ago.

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Arko Shaving Soap Stick Review

Arko is a love it or hate it kind of shaving soap. I've been using my Arko shaving stick for a while now so feel I have a good understanding of what the product has to offer. Reviews for the Arko shaving stick, on the Internet, are mostly positive with many people commending the product for ease of lather and price, but are less excited about the scent.

I ordered a stick of Arko to test this product out for myself. At $2.80 NZD I didn't have much to loose. That is rediculously cheap.

The product comes in a kinda neat, foil wrapped, retro designed, stick shape soap. It's not terribly big; not to say it's small, it's just that photos of the stick seem to make it appear larger.

Lather. This is where the product shines. I start by wetting my face and then wetting the stick before rubbing the stick all over my face so I can visibly see the soap. It helps if you have a little stubble as it works a bit like a grater, scraping and holding the soap on your face.

With a slighly-wetter-than-usual brush, in your typical swirly motion this stuff foams up to a great lather almost instantly. Note, I probably use more water when lathering Arko than usual.

The scent of this product is usualy a talking point and, of course, the make it or break it for many folks. When I first opened the foil I thought woah! this stuff smells like some serious bathroom product. And my sense of smell isn't even that good.

I stuck with it. And you know what? I actually like the smell. In particular, I like the after smell - the smell you get a whiff of during the day while you're at your desk. It's a smell of cleanliness. I find it goes really well with Speick aftershave as they compliment each other. Speick has a fresh smell and Arko a clean smell.

The shave quality of Arko is also good. It's lubricating and I find it doesn't dry out my face like my Proraso menthol. The moisturing properties actually surprised me as I assumed it would be rather drying. I have an excellent shave everytime with Arko.

The one negative I find with the product, and I guess I just find it more awkward than anything, is the foil wrapped stick/concept. You obviously have to peel back the foil to expose enough of the stick to be able to apply it to your face. But then with general use, i.e., getting wet, the foil tents to fuse together with the soap at the torn edge. The foil also starts to look a bit worse for wear after awhile.

Once the stick is low, as in it becomes uncomfortable to hold, I'll probably just throw it. I can hardly complain about wastage at this point for a product as cheap as it is. But still, it adds to the products awkwardness.

All things considered, I find this an excellent product. I admit that due to the scent, it might not be for everyone. However, with the price, ease of lather, moisturising properties every wet shaver should give this baby a go.

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Quick Shaving Tip #5

Use pre shave oil? Open you shaving cream lid before oiling up your fingers!

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Understanding Gillette Safety Razors: I, II, III Markings

If you're a collector of vintage Gillette safety razors you've probably come across markings, usually under the head, that overtime have lost meaning.

Many Rockets, and a few other razors, have the I, II, III symbols. What do they mean?

I, II, III markings/symbols/roman numerals represent the aggressiveness of the razor. Not all razors have these markings, it's mostly limited to Rockets (a family of English made razor - including some English aristocrats) but even then, not all rockets have these markings. These symbols where introduced around the mid-fifties so it's possible razors produced before this time do not have the symbols while those produced after do.

The "I" symbol represents a mild razor and is found on the blue flair tip rocket. "II" is middle of the road and is what I have on my standard flair tip and Aristocrat #66. The "III" is the most aggressive and found on the red tips.

To complicate things further, sometimes a 0 or + are used instead of the 'I' symbols. Or sometimes a 'S' and 'A', which could stand for smooth/soft and aggressive.

As with all things Gillette, we have no real way to verify this theory; and theory it is. Other theories include the marking being used to identify the plating, which I disagree with. I have both nickel and rhodium plated razor both bearing the II symbol.

Another theory, which may hold some weight, suggests the markings represent the head weight of the razor. The razor weight is one factor that determines aggressiveness anyway so perhaps this is true? However, both my regular flair tip and #66 are marked with a II and both vary dramatically in total weight. Not sure what just the heads way but this seems like an overly complicated analysis when all things considered.

So there we have it. Roman symbols demystified.

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It Ain't Gonna Sell: Flair Tip Rocket

It was only a few days ago I posted about a Rolls Razor going for a ridiculous price, and now today someone wants $60 for this "Valet". It's definitely a Valet, right? It says so on the box...

The auction title reads: "# Retro "Valet Auto Strop Safety Razor" with Box #". As you can see, that is not a Valet but a Gillette Flair Tip.

Honest mistake? Perhaps. Here is the description:

Classic "Valet Auto Strop Safety Razor" still with it's original Box.  Also comes with a couple of Blades one in it's packet, looks to still be in good working condition.  No worries with combining (-:} postage on auctions (as long as it can be done), to reduce overall costs.  Cleaning out my Mums Storage Unit so all kinds of goodies to interest all types.  ENJOY YOUR TRADING !!

Claiming it's "still with its original box" is definitely deceiving. If the seller doesn't know for sure he really shouldn't be making such claims.

The fact the asking price is $60, waay to much, shows there is no real knowledge of shaving collectables and he's pretty much just guessing. The funny thing is, the Gillette is probably worth more than the Valet anyway. Not $60, but more.

Anyway, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and I even mentioned to him that this is in fact a Gillette razor and to simply look under the head. Will he correct his mistake? I'd like to think so but I'm not holding my breath. I did make him a reasonable offer but I don't think I'll be hearing from him.

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First Attempt with a Straight Razor

Tonight was my first straight razor shave. I've had my straight razor for a few months now but have never gotten around to using it. My excuse was that I needed a strop so once I started I could maintain the edge.

Well today, by chance, I got myself a strop. And with it came the inevitable first straight razor shave.

I spent some time during the day watching videos on how to properly strop your razor. I had every intention of actually stropping my own razor, but they day was interrupted by visiting family members. Regardless, I was going to shave straight style.

I showered as usual. I would usually use Proraso Menthol shaving soap but not today. I love that stuff but if I leave it on my face too long I get all red - and stay red - for a few days. So tonight was all about playing it safe and I stuck to my Bluebeard Revenge shaving cream.

I already understood the basics of how to hold the straight razor, although I must admin I did have a blank for a minute. After some fumbling it came back to me and shaving I began.

Was I nervous? for sure. But that faded pretty quickly once I started. I have no idea how long I was in the bathroom for. I must have re-lathered 5 times. They say when you first begin to just do your side burn area. And once you've done this for a few days, move to your checks and then slowly, but surely, move to other parts of your face. Good advice - if you're not impatient. I attempted the whole lot.

Now that I've finished, did I do a good job? For a first attempt I think I did awesome. Would I go to work shaved like this? Hell no. As far as shaves go it's pretty bad. Had this been attempted in the morning I would have pulled out the double edge razor and re-shaved. But it's night; so instead I left my face as-is so I could enjoy the accomplishment of my crappy shave for a little longer... and my face has had enough punishment for one night. In fact, my face feels a little raw and I'll probably feel it some more tomorrow. 

I also didn't cut myself so that was a win.

Lessons learnt

My biggest mistake was probably having 3 days of stubble on my face before attempting my straight shave. I have coarse Italian hair and my moustache area is a challenge for most blades regardless of shaving tool.

A 'doubt' I had was whether my straight was sharp enough. It was second hand but was said to be "shave ready". It quite possible is/was but I have nothing to compare with. I have a second straight razor that I'm going to look at getting honed juuust to make sure my razor is sharp enough next time.

Before my next shave I also need to learn how to remove the excess lather from my blade. I know it sounds simple and perhaps obvious, but when you're there shaving what do you actually do with it? Wipe it off with your hand? Wipe it with a towel? Place the blade under the tap? It's not something you think about when you're watching how-to videos. 

Conclusion

I'll definitely be attempting to straight shave again next Saturday. In the meantime I need to find a place to attach me strop so I can start practicing that skill.

This is definitely something I recommend every double edge razor shaver try - it's not likely to be everyones cup of tea but it's worth trying for the experience - and for the "yeah, done it" James Bond manliness bravado.

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It Ain't Gonna Sell: Rolls Razor

Every now and then someone lists a razor on our local auction site, Trade Me, for a ridiculous price. Or sometimes they talk so much bullshit in the description it feels criminal. 

I'm going to start sharing some of these outrageous prices and listings so you can decided for yourself if you'd buy what they're selling.

To get the ball rolling, we have a Rolls Razor for sale. The title reads Barber's Antique Rolls Razor. So far so good.

How about the description?

Rolls Razor Nickel Plated Imperial No.2 Model - Made in London, England.  This vintage razor comes in its original box and is a great collector's item. I am not sure of exact age, but the razor itself looks like new. The original instructions are inside the container.  This is one of many items owned by an elderly barber, now deceased. He had owned it for nearly 60 years.

Again, sounds like an honest description that matches the photos (below).

So how much are they asking? Starting bid of $150 nzd with a buy now of $180!

How much do these usually sell for? There are currently 8 listing for Rolls Razor's. As far as I can see, they don't really sell. But the usual asking price is, on average, about $30.

While this one is probably in the best condition compared to the rest, and comes with the box, would you pay the premium?

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Open Comb vs Safety Bar Razors

Let's not forget the time when we too had discovered double edge safety razors as real alternative to our Mach 3's. You would trawl through site after site, forum post after forum post trying determine if this was for you, and if so, what would be the best starter razor to buy.

In this quest you'd no doubt encounter acronym after acronym. One that got me was 'OC'. With more research I found out it stood for Open Comb; but what the hell is an open comb safety razor? And is it for me?

Notice the difference? The open comb, right, has little needle like theethy bits on either side, like a comb. The Safety bar, left, has a solid bar.

Which one is better? That's up to you. The open comb was the original double edge safety razor design which was used up to the early 1940's. Gillette apparently did away with this design in favour of the safety bar for a few reasons. It was supposedly easier to manufacture, cost less (used less resources) and also made the product less prone to bent teeth - as they were removed altogether.

Many folk argue that the open comb provides better channels for the shaving cream to funnel in to over the safety bar. My experience with OC's find this to be true. But obviously safety bar razors are still adequate in this regards.

Another thing you'll come across is aggressiveness. Which is more aggressive? Neither. It depends on the razors. Some OC's are more aggressive than safety bars and vice versa. In saying that, it might be true that "old type" razors (which are open combs) are more aggressive with current generation blades as blades were slightly thicker in those days.

Still not sure what to get? If you're just learning, stick to the safety bar. I can't really give a convincing reason for this advice, but you can always find a vintage open comb when the RAD sets in.

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Quick Shaving Tip #4

Take a good look at the directions the hair on your face and neck grow. You may have been shaving for years but never taken the time to look. You may be surprised at the sudden changes in direction. Using this you can help prevent ingrown hairs by changing direction to match your growth patterns.

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Got sent this image from a friend and thought I'd share it: Shaving in 4 easy steps.

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DIY: How to Make a Safety Razor Rack For Idiots

In New Zealand I've searched high and low for a decent safety razor rack. They don't exist. They're a myth. I've even tried searching for test tube racks or toothbrush holders. While I can find these, finding a nice wooden variety is not so easy. So I made my own and this is how I did it. 

What you'll need

A mini wine gift box or similar (key ingredient)

A power drill

Sandpaper - P100 rating (P120 optional)

Wood stainer (optional) or vanish

Ruler (T-square is even better)

Pencil

Drawing compass

The trickiest part may in-fact be finding this little box. I got mine by texting a number on the side of a bus stop to receive a free bottle of hot sauce. It was less dodgy than it sounds. 

A power drill make things easier. I borrowed my Dad's.

P100 sandpaper should be sufficient for fixing any mistakes and smoothing surfaces, however, I do recommend the finer grained P120 for the final sand down. 

The wood stain is for aesthetics. Most stains I saw provide some sort protection from water which is essential as your rack will likely be living in your bathroom where there can be lots of moisture. This can be substituted with wood vanish. 

The steps

- Mark out the center of each hole

The best approach here is to find the center of the first hole (which is the left most hole when working left to right). I simply turned one of my double edge razors upside down, so the head was against the wood, and moved it to a position that looked good then marked the center of each side on the wood, so once removed, I can work out the center point. 

Once you have the first hole's center point you can draw a horizontal line, using a ruler or t-square, across the wood where the center of each other hole will be. 

The next center point to find is the last hole (right most hole). Using the same distance between the *left edge* and *first* center point, mark out the last hole distance from the right edge. This will give you two holes - one near the left edge and one near the right - that are even distances from the edges. 

My rack has five holes. We've just marked two. We want the remaining 3 holes to be evenly spaced out. To have them even, measure the distance between the two marked hole centres (1 and 5) and divide that by 4 if you want 3 more holes. If you want 4 more holes you'd divide that by 5 and so forth. This gives you the even distance between each hole. 

In my case, the distance between hole 1 and 5 was 160mm: 160/4 = 40mm spacing between the holes. Yes, the stars aligned and I was blessed with even numbers.

Starting at the first hole center point, mark off, with a ruler, every x number of mm along your previously drawn horizontal line. For me it's every 40mm. 

I just realised these steps are probably way to detailed and possibly patronising. I'll try improve. 

You should now have the center positions for every hole. Pull out that graphics compass you haven't used since school days. Let's draw some circles. 

- Draw the holes outlines

As you can see, I've drawn two circles per hole. This isn't strictly necessary. In fact it’s not necessary at all. Truth be told, the inner circle was originally a mistake but I let it fly anyway.

The inner circle has a radius of 6.5mm while the outer circle has a radius of 8mm. Again, I don't want to sound patronising but I'll explain radius anyway so we're all in the same page: the radius is the distance from the circle center to the circle edge. So this is the distance you set your compass to. A 6.5mm radius will create a circle with a 13mm diameter.

Feel free to adjust these circle sizes. The inner circle is a good size for a lot of razor handle size but not quite big enough for others - hence the bigger circle. The outer circles, with 8mm radius, is big enough for all my razors, including the dial on my slim adjustable. I don't have a fatboy to test. 

- Drill the holes

Before you drill, I suggest you get a smallish nail or something to make a reasonable indent on your wood at your center points. This will make the start of the drilling process a bit easier - and less likely to have an off center hole. 

What I should have done was bought a drill bit that was the correct size. I didn't. Instead, I used what I'm guessing was an 8mm or 9mm diameter drill bit and through sheer patients and determination made the holes to the correct size. I don't recommend this. It sucked. I do recommend you get a drill bit slightly smaller than the size of the hole you want to drill; so in this case maybe 13 or

14 mm diameter. The slightly smaller bit will give you some wiggle room.

If you go with a small drill bit like I did, you can increase the hole size with some angles grinds. Use the inner circle as a guide to help keep your circle... circular. Don’t worry if the holes aren't perfect after the drilling. We can fix (read improve) that with sandpaper. Obviously do the best you can with the drilling as this will make you life easier later.

Once you’ve finished drilling all the holes your rack should be usable. Test it out and make sure the razors you want in there fit. If not, you should be able to sand the hole so it’ll be big enough.

- Sand down

With your P100 sandpaper, sand the hole to 1) make it bigger if necessary, 2) make it rounder if necessary and 3) bevel the edges a bit. A little bit of a sand takes the sharpness off the edge and, in my opinion, gives it a more polished looked.

Simply roll the sandpaper up so you can get it in the hole. It can be a bit trickier but it’s definitely doable.

I also recommend giving the hole box a sanding over. These boxes aren’t made for display pieces and a sanding, inside and out, really makes a difference. Also sand down any overlaps where two sides of the wood meet. At least for my box, quality control was... indifferent.

- Vanish

You should be able to get a wood vanish from your local hardware store. The unfortunate thing about wood vanish is that it is likely to be the most expensive part of the project. It’s not terribly expensive but when compared to what the box is worth it’s relative.

Never the less, it can make all the difference to how your rack displays. It also adds extra protection as the wood will often be exposed to moisture.

- End product

That’s really all there is to it. Find a box, drill holes in it, vanish. Now your wife will thank you for clearing your razors from the vanity and think you’re handy with the wood, too.