Cao Lįŗ§u, Hoi An, Vietnam
This is cao lįŗ§u, the best bowl of noodles Iāve eaten in Vietnam. (Sorry, pho!)
Cao lįŗ§u is a super-localized dish that you can only enjoy in the historic town of Hoi An. According to local legend, the rice noodles used in the dish must be made with water from a secret well, and mixed with ash from wood collected from the nearly Cham Islands. Other than that, ingredients and toppings change from chef to chef and restaurant to restaurant, but the dish usually contains some kind of pork and herbs.
Weād tried a few versions around town and were unimpressed, to be honest, until we were walking back to our hotel one night and stumbled upon this set upā¦
A lone man under a tent in an alley preparing noodles dishesā¦
His kitchenā¦
A closer look at the ingredientsā¦
The dining roomā¦
We ordered and he got to work, cooking the noodles, adding the soup and methodically constructing the dishā¦
In less than two minutes, this beauty bowl arrived at our tableā¦
His version of cao lįŗ§u, as seen here, featured two kinds of roast pork, the belly and the loin, and came topped with fried pork lard for crunch. There was also a layer of herbs under all those pork parts, which you mixed all together by yourselfā¦
As you can see above, the noodles are quite thick, similar to udon in texture, but with a very distinct taste.
No soup. Just a few secret sauces and a touch of vinegar.
You added chilli sauce, homemade of course, on your own as well.
I still canāt get over how good this cao lįŗ§u was!! Every ingredient came together to form a perfect formula of flavor.
All through our ādinnerā, we were watched over by this young fella, the chefās grandson, who kept eyeing me like I was going to steal one of his ribsā¦
Thereās no address I can give you here, however, I was told this tent goes up nightly as long as the weatherās good. To find this killer cao lįŗ§u in Hoi An, look for this address in Old Town and you should spot this streetside chef making magic in the alley after sunsetā¦
Hereās one more look for good measureā¦
















