SuitMeUp Guide: Everything you could possibly want to know about Fabric Weaves
We get a lot of questions about fabric weaves so thought it would be helpful if we put together a massive guide that covers everything you could possibly want to know about fabric weaves when designing your bespoke outfit.
By definition, fabric design or weave is the interlacing pattern of warps and wefts. This means that the pattern you see is the basic unit of weave, and the whole design is formed due to repetition of the basic weave. Fabrics are usually classified according to the structure of the weave.
Plain, twill and satin weaves are most common and are detailed below.
Plain weave
Plain weave (also referred to as tabby, calico, homespun or taffeta weaves) showcases beauty in the simplicity of construction where the weft alternatively passes over a warp thread.
The plain weave is one of the most commonly produced fabrics. It has a high volume of interlacing in comparison to other weave types which gives the fabric its unique firmness. Variations in design are produced by using groups of yarns (for example, in monk and basked cloth) or by varying coarse and fine yarns to create corded or ribbed fabrics (for example, warp-ribbed Bedford cord, dimity, pique, weft-ribbed poplin, grosgrain and rep).
Plain weave can also be sub-divided into two key types:
Basket/ Matt weave: Two or more yarns are woven as one to give the basket effect. Then we can also have regular and irregular basket weaves! You’ll usually see this type of weave in your pillowcases.
In tailored shirts you will often find Oxford fabric as it is quite soft.
In tailored suits, Sharkskin fabrics are a popular favourite with its two-toned woven appearance and soft texture. It has a wrinkle free and lightweight appearance. Its two-toned appearance is a result of coloured threads diagonally woven with white fibres. Sharkskin fabric is famous for its finesse.
Rib-weave or Ribbed (Warp & Wet): Yarns of larger diameter are used for filling. This type of weave gives rise to fabric design with fewer visible yarns/square centimeters.
Some of the fabric types falling under plain-weave category are:
Chiffon: This is a filing plain and soft woven silk textured fabric that consists of finest singles that are hardly twisted and then woven carefully in the gum condition. The cloth has to be degummed later.
Georgette: This is a cotton crepe fabric that is manufactured as an imitation of silk georgette and has hard twisted weft and warp yarn.
Seersucker: This fabric is manufactured by holding warp at tight and slack tension; the warps at slack-tension would puff up and form more like a blister effect while the others would tighten up and give a different colouration.
Twill weave
This is the second primary weave type and is recognised by diagonal, hounds tooth, chevron or corkscrew lines at 15 or 75 degrees angles. This type of weave is represented by numbers and a ‘slash-sign’ (e.g. 2/1 Twill: two up, one down). The weft threads are interlaced two to four wafts and then are moved a step to right or left. The variations give rise to corkscrew and herringbone designs. Twill fabrics are known for their close, firm weave and include denim, drill, serge and gabardine.
The design of these fabrics can be enhanced by adding a coloured yarn that may increase the overall fabric shine.
Denim and gabardine are two most common twill weave fabrics.
Denim is a strong warp face cotton cloth, usually made in 3/1 twill weave and is generally dyed in blue or brown and crossed with white waft.
Gabardine is a warp-face cloth woven mostly in 2/2 twill, 20/2 tex cotton weft or 27/2 tex warp.
Satin & Sateen Weave
This involves four or more shafts and warp floats or weft floats in an interrupted diagonal design. This weave type is not the finest or lustrous. It represents floated fashion and has satin, slipper-satin and crepe-back-satin. Due to it refined quality it has light reflective properties and has, therefore, an attractive luster. The weave pattern is referred to as “sateen” when the threads are uncrossed in weft.
Some of the best examples of this fabric type are:
Satin: This is used primarily for trimmings, linings, ribbons and dresses. Originally it was a dominantly silky fabric with a rich glossy surface.
Sateen: It is a cotton fabric and is made in 5 thread weft face sateen; it’s woven like cotton but is solid in printed or bleached condition.
Charmeuse: It is a lighter weight fabric that is woven with a satin type weave. The fabric has a satin finish and lustrous, reflective surface on the front side, while the back is dull.
Jacquard:
This pattern is mainly a combination of twill, satin and plain weaves. Decorative fabrics are often based on the jacquard technique. Yarns are woven into unlimited intricate, multicolor designs; which produce an exquisite overall effect. These are much expensive but the designs are durable and don’t wear out or fade easily. This type of fabric is commonly used for wall-hangings and upholstery. The common Jacquard fabrics are Brocade and Damask.
Brocade: This is a heavy and rich silk fiber with raised figures that are formed due to extra threads or because of embroidery.
Damask: This fabric is with a sateen figure on a warp satin, twist or plain fabric that may be of cotton, rayon, silk or linen yarns. These are reversible.
Leno/Gauze:
In this type of fabric the weave pairs of warps are mainly twisted on each-other. The technique used in its weaving is a variant of ‘twining’. In leno-fabric types that warp yarns are paired. These fabrics are made in open gauze-like constructions.
Pile fabric:
In this kind of fabric, several extra set of warps are woven over the ground yarns of twill or plain form loops. These have been defined with cut-or-uncut loops that stand up densely on the surface. Cut piles are soft, resilient, warm and absorbent and may also be expensive or require professional cleaning. Common types of cut pile fabrics are velvet, velveteen and corduroy.