#suitmeup

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Sam for @bakovicstudio ・・・ 1/5 ELLIPSE MULES by @bakovicstudio 💗 Photography @corentinleroux__ Styling @taticotliar Video & SFX @jonasersland Hair @b_dgram MUA @lynskiii @saintlukeartists Casting @ikki_casting Graphic Design @1112alp Production @marmarea.__ Assistance @coryweston.hair @censilucena @weiting_ruby @_jeedee_ @greymodelagency #shoestodiefor #suitmeup #killerheels #LFW (at London, United Kingdom) https://www.instagram.com/p/CUM7uNitwJN/?utm_medium=tumblr

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😉This suits me, don't you think? Be cool and wear local: SG label @dzojchen paired with @gucci for a pretty chic afternoon look... @chelseascottb 👍😊 #supportlocalsg#iamafan#dzojchen#suitmeup#fashiongram#fashionaddict#photoready#goodlife#singapore (at The Fullerton Hotel Singapore)

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SuitMeUp Guide: Everything you could possibly want to know about Fabric Weaves

We get a lot of questions about fabric weaves so thought it would be helpful if we put together a massive guide that covers everything you could possibly want to know about fabric weaves when designing your bespoke outfit.

By definition, fabric design or weave is the interlacing pattern of warps and wefts. This means that the pattern you see is the basic unit of weave, and the whole design is formed due to repetition of the basic weave. Fabrics are usually classified according to the structure of the weave.

Plain, twill and satin weaves are most common and are detailed below.

Plain weave

Plain weave (also referred to as tabby, calico, homespun or taffeta weaves) showcases beauty in the simplicity of construction where the weft alternatively passes over a warp thread.

The plain weave is one of the most commonly produced fabrics. It has a high volume of interlacing in comparison to other weave types which gives the fabric its unique firmness. Variations in design are produced by using groups of yarns (for example, in monk and basked cloth) or  by varying coarse and fine yarns to create corded or ribbed fabrics (for example, warp-ribbed Bedford cord, dimity, pique, weft-ribbed poplin, grosgrain and rep).

Plain weave can also be sub-divided into two key types:

Basket/ Matt weave: Two or more yarns are woven as one to give the basket effect. Then we can also have regular and irregular basket weaves! You’ll usually see this type of weave in your pillowcases.

In tailored shirts you will often find Oxford fabric as it is quite soft.

In tailored suits, Sharkskin fabrics are a popular favourite with its two-toned woven appearance and soft texture. It has a wrinkle free and lightweight appearance. Its two-toned appearance is a result of coloured threads diagonally woven with white fibres. Sharkskin fabric is famous for its finesse.

Rib-weave or Ribbed (Warp & Wet): Yarns of larger diameter are used for filling. This type of weave gives rise to fabric design with fewer visible yarns/square centimeters.

Some of the fabric types falling under plain-weave category are:

Chiffon: This is a filing plain and soft woven silk textured fabric that consists of finest singles that are hardly twisted and then woven carefully in the gum condition. The cloth has to be degummed later.

Georgette: This is a cotton crepe fabric that is manufactured as an imitation of silk georgette and has hard twisted weft and warp yarn.

Seersucker: This fabric is manufactured by holding warp at tight and slack tension; the warps at slack-tension would puff up and form more like a blister effect while the others would tighten up and give a different colouration.

Twill weave 

This is the second primary weave type and is recognised by diagonal, hounds tooth, chevron or corkscrew lines at 15 or 75 degrees angles. This type of weave is represented by numbers and a ‘slash-sign’ (e.g. 2/1 Twill: two up, one down). The weft threads are interlaced two to four wafts and then are moved a step to right or left. The variations give rise to corkscrew and herringbone designs. Twill fabrics are known for their close, firm weave and include denim, drill, serge and gabardine.

The design of these fabrics can be enhanced by adding a coloured yarn that may increase the overall fabric shine.

Denim and gabardine are two most common twill weave fabrics.

Denim is a strong warp face cotton cloth, usually made in 3/1 twill weave and is generally dyed in blue or brown and crossed with white waft.

Gabardine is a warp-face cloth woven mostly in 2/2 twill, 20/2 tex cotton weft or 27/2 tex warp.

Satin & Sateen Weave

This involves four or more shafts and warp floats or weft floats in an interrupted diagonal design. This weave type is not the finest or lustrous. It represents floated fashion and has satin, slipper-satin and crepe-back-satin. Due to it refined quality it has light reflective properties and has, therefore, an attractive luster. The weave pattern is referred to as “sateen” when the threads are uncrossed in weft.

Some of the best examples of this fabric type are:

Satin: This is used primarily for trimmings, linings, ribbons and dresses. Originally it was a dominantly silky fabric with a rich glossy surface.

Sateen: It is a cotton fabric and is made in 5 thread weft face sateen; it’s woven like cotton but is solid in printed or bleached condition.

Charmeuse: It is a lighter weight fabric that is woven with a satin type weave. The fabric has a satin finish and lustrous, reflective surface on the front side, while the back is dull.

Jacquard:

This pattern is mainly a combination of twill, satin and plain weaves. Decorative fabrics are often based on the jacquard technique. Yarns are woven into unlimited intricate, multicolor designs; which produce an exquisite overall effect. These are much expensive but the designs are durable and don’t wear out or fade easily. This type of fabric is commonly used for wall-hangings and upholstery. The common Jacquard fabrics are Brocade and Damask.

Brocade: This is a heavy and rich silk fiber with raised figures that are formed due to extra threads or because of embroidery.

Damask: This fabric is with a sateen figure on a warp satin, twist or plain fabric that may be of cotton, rayon, silk or linen yarns. These are reversible.

Leno/Gauze:

In this type of fabric the weave pairs of warps are mainly twisted on each-other. The technique used in its weaving is a variant of ‘twining’. In leno-fabric types that warp yarns are paired. These fabrics are made in open gauze-like constructions.

Pile fabric:

In this kind of fabric, several extra set of warps are woven over the ground yarns of twill or plain form loops. These have been defined with cut-or-uncut loops that stand up densely on the surface. Cut piles are soft, resilient, warm and absorbent and may also be expensive or require professional cleaning. Common types of cut pile fabrics are velvet, velveteen and corduroy. 

[suitmeupblog]

A timeless classic - the white shirt for women

Among the must-have items that a woman needs to have in her wardrobe are a few classic white shirts. White shirts are experiencing a come-back in trends this autumn (not that they were ever out of fashion), so it's worth it to try and discuss a few aspects about wearing a white shirt that you should consider.

It’s a wonderful investment:

Firstly, you should get a perfectly tailored and well-fitting white shirt, made of natural fabrics for the best aspect and comfort. It is an investment in your outfit that you'll never regret, simply because there are so many style options and situations when you can wear it.

The perfect complement for your suit:

Naturally, a white tailored shirt is the perfect complement to a tailored business suit. A white shirt matches any suit wonderfully, no matter what colours or weaving it has.

You can always accessorise:

If you think a white shirt is too simple for your tastes, accessorise it with simple but eye catching jewellery (gold, silver, pearls will all look great), cufflinks to enhance its crisp elegant look, or a colourful scarf.

Works with any tailored pants or skirt:

Another big advantage of white shirts is the fact that they look good with any kind of tailored pants or skirt. This season’s special matches for white shirts are 7/8 black tailored pants, for a minimalist black-and-white style and pencil skirts just below the knee. However, you can of course wear them with standard classic pants and skirts and you won’t ever go wrong.

It can also be your casual look:

For casual wear, a white shirt looks amazing with pretty much any pair of jeans, colourful printed pants, or with a romantic A-line skirt.

Apart from what to wear it with, another important aspect about white shirts is how to wear them properly. Make sure your shirt is perfectly ironed- this is how it looks best - the lines and the tailoring thus get their perfect aspect. Moreover, keep it impeccably white (there is a lot of advice out there on how to preserve white forever and recover it on older items). In terms of weaving, we recommend you poplin this season; the options are endless so choose something that suits your personality.  

A classic white tailored suit is a worthwhile and long term investment in your wardrobe and will open endless sartorial avenues. 

[suitmeupblog]

4 steps to dressing for an interview! [for men]

Wear a great-fitting suit

With very few exceptions, such as in creative industries where a smart-casual style is also acceptable and a tailored jacket is advisable, gentlemen should wear suits for interviews. The most important things about the suit are its tailoring, details and fabrics. As far as tailoring is concerned, getting a bespoke suit is an investment in your career wardrobe that you will never regret. Bespoke is the only way to have a suit built precisely for you, and make a good impression with your appearance. If you wear your suit for the first time, make sure it is neatly pressed and you remove all the signs that it is new.

What kind of shirt should you wear with your suit?

The shirt completing your outfit should also be bespoke, made of pure Egyptian cotton. For the interview, we recommend that you choose a white one. Light colours are also acceptable, and so are subtle weaves such as Oxford or twill. Never wear a shirt with short sleeves! You don't want to look like you've just returned from surfing. Make sure that your shirt is perfectly clean and properly ironed.

Accessorising your interview suit

The first item that you must wear with your suit is a tie in one colour or a classical print, only made of 100% pure silk. We recommend burgundy or dark blue as colour options, but you can choose others as well, as long as they are classic. A job interview is not the place to display your signature ties with funny messages.

Cufflinks, although not compulsory for the interview, give you a touch of extra elegance, and there are many classy ones to choose from. Try and avoid earrings, piercings and too many rings.

It always helps to check out the style of men in your industry at job fairs, conferences and business magazines for inspiration.

The little details make all the difference

Clean shoes. Don't wear your laptop backpack with your interview suit (in fact, you should always avoid this, not only on interview day)! Carry a classical briefcase, or if it's not justified for the interview, don't bring it at all, a small portfolio is more than enough!

Wear classic leather shoes and try wearing a matching leather belt. What is important is to wear dark, even black socks, long enough so you don't show skin when you sit.

Get a fresh haircut a few days before the interview. Go perfectly groomed and fresh, with your most confident attitude. Avoid too much cologne or perfume; you don't know how your interviewer might react to it and you don't want to overpower them in a small room.

That's it! Follow these easy tips and there is nothing in the way of your success!