Charles James
Evening Jacket Paris 1937
As a Historical Costume Maker, I start with the primary research. It unveils and brings me closer to understand how these garments were made and stitched together. Understand the historical context and the silhouette adopted in a specific time of history. I have been lucky enough to be involved with different projects and specific courses that have pushed me to learn, understand and develop these investigations. I am passionate about the clothes of the past and their backgrounds in Fashion. I find it so fascinating and intriguing, how construction evolved in time. One of the reasons I love to transfer my knowledge of the Historical dress into a modern adaptation is to promote these traits, keep them alive and produce a unique garment that keeps part of this craftsmanship.
This evening Charles James jacket was created for Mrs Oliver Burr Jennings and is regarded as one of his most important work. Designed in 1937, he made a full report of the development of its design in 1970. He worked as a Milliner and custom Dressmaker in New York, London and finally established a branch with his name in Paris. He loved the Surrealist movement that inspired and characterised his work.
It was my second appointment at the V&A study center it required a couple of months wait. It felt like when you receive that most wanted present. As soon as I stepped into that door, I was brought back in time, surrounded by wonder and excitement. In this visit, I required to view a 16th-century Italian Doublet, a 1990's Georgina Goodley Day Dress and this Charles James evening jacket. I also got to see an evening dress designed for the Queen's state visit to Paris in 1957 and a Gareth Pugh Silver Dress from 2011. Got me so emotional that I thought I'd forget what to do. During this appointment, I had a chance to analyse up close, take note, ask questions to the curator that was assisting me that day, could refer to books they had there, a treasurable and unforgettable experience.
Top Picture credit: Harper's Bazaar October 1938, Photographed by Horst P. Horst
Bottom Picture: Jasmine Bälder personal archive taken on a visit to V&A research Center.