Trifari 'Alfred Philippe' Giant Pave and Enamel Red Carnation Pin Clip
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Trifari 'Alfred Philippe' Giant Pave and Enamel Red Carnation Pin Clip
🌹💜 Hyacinth Pin by Alfred Philippe (1940)
When Costume Jewelry Was Glorious: 1950s and 1960s
This set is part of the collection at the Chicago History Museum, and they date it between 1955 and 1969. It is only costume jewelry, made of some vague metal, rhinestones and glass, but notice the exquisite details of design lavished upon it. I can imagine in worn at the neckline of a lovely afternoon dress for a wedding, maybe something in yellow or blue silk? And I like the idea that you didn’t have to be able to afford diamonds to be able to dress up. Yes, there was a time when costume jewelry was so well-designed and well-made. Of course, it also cost more, but isn’t it better to get to purchase one of these than several utterly forgettable cheap designs? This was made by the Trifari company which started early in the 20th Century by a man of the same name whose father was a goldsmith from Naples, Italy.
The curators think this set was designed by Alfred Philippe, a Frenchman, and the company's head designer from 1930 until 1968. Why? Because of the clever way the stones are set almost invisibly. Philippe developed the technique while at Van Cleef and Arpels, and kept it up even when he moved to designing costume jewelry. No, it isn’t made of precious materials, but the design itself is precious. Which is why museums as well as fans collect it.
You can find it and other lovely items here at the Chicago History Museum: http://digitalcollection.chicagohistory.org/cdm/landingpage/collection/p16029coll3
Raspberry Brooch - Trifari ~ ‘Alfred Philippe’
Since the 1920s, Trifari has been one of the most respected and admired producers of costume jewellery in the United States. Founded in the 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, the Italian-immigrant son of a Napoli goldsmith, the company has designed jewellery that’s been worn by countless high-profile clients.
Beginning in the 1930s, Trifari worked with Broadway and Hollywood producers to craft custom designs for famous actors, a clever move to boost its jewellery’s status. But the true success of Trifari jewellery, and the reason for its collectibility today, is most often credited to French designer Alfred Philippe, the company’s chief designer from 1930 until 1968. His use of invisible settings for stones, which he originally developed for Van Cleef & Arpels, added a level of craftsmanship and technique that had not been previously seen in costume jewellery. Such hand-set pieces often imitated the look of fine jewellery, using sterling silver or vermeil - a gold-plated finish, alongside other faux materials like paste gemstones and imitation moonstone, chalcedony, and pearls.
photo: pinterest.com
text (abridged): collectorsweekly.com
Trifari ‘Alfred Philippe’ lily of the valley pin
Trifari 'Alfred Philippe'
Jelly Belly Penguin brooch by Alfred Philippe for Trifari, 1940s
Gilded sterling silver