#algae clean up

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Learn How to Get Rid Of Algae Like A Pro

Our last article talked about killing algae without the algaecide. As mentioned it is a relatively simple process that requires steady discipline and a hell of a lot of chlorine. You may ask, but the pool guys can clear algae up in two visits - how do they do that? It is a good question, algae removal is a very common gateway service for a pool service company and a potential customer. The pool cleaning service can clean up the algae, and then pitch for the regular service contract. So how do they make that happen? In short - it depends on the company, some prefer copper based algaecides while others prefer sodium bromide. Today we will discuss the extremely effective treatment option of sodium bromide and chlorine. First, we must always remember that Algae is a living organism. Which means that it needs several conditions in order to exist: • Very low amounts of sterilizing agent (Chlorine dipping low) • Proper water temperature (the warmer the better) • Low amounts of water circulation (the less the water is circulating the better) A mixture of low sanitizer levels and any of the other two options and algae will find a way to bloom. So, in order to kill algae we must increase the sanitizer levels and correct any water circulation problems True we could find a way to lower the water temperature - but most homeowners like to swim in comfortable water levels. Ready to go algae hunting - you will need: • Sodium Bromide (We use Yellow Trine - we use it for all colors of algae) • Liquid Chlorine (You can find this at most hardware stores - try to find 10% or 12% if you can) • Calcium Hypo-chlorite (Pool store kids will tell you it's actually called shock. • A sturdy pool pole and a pool brush • Pool Chemistry kit and knowledge • Since you may have to clean the filter several times - basic pool filter cleaning is needed To begin with a thorough check of all equipment is necessary. Any full baskets should be cleaned out, filters and pressure gauges should be checked, and everything should be in good working order. Without a properly running filter and pump, algae will continue to return and never clear up. Next, we must make sure that our PH levels are between 7.2-7.4. Keeping the PH within this range will help the chlorine fight any organics. Most pool service techs look at the total alkalinity readings in the pool and lower the alkalinity with muriatic acid. This will in turn lower the PH. With your PH now in range, the chlorine levels must be brought up 15ppm above the recommended point (at minimum - you can bring them up further).. Remember that your baseline chlorine requirements depend on your cyanuric acid levels. To quickly raise the chlorine levels, use Calcium Hypochlorite (typically sold as shock). You can pour this directly into the skimmer opening (be sure to take out any baskets though). Depending on the amount of gallons in your pool, this can typically require several pounds. It is highly advisable to avoid any tri-chlor or di-chlor products throughout this process as they will raise your cyanuric acid levels tremendously. With the PH levels in the correct range, the sanitizer levels at least 15 parts per million above baseline, and your pool system is up and running. Next, brush the walls and floor of the pool vigorously so that any attached algae can become dislodged. The severity of the algae bloom will dictate the amount of sodium bromide and the amount of liquid chlorine needed. Mild algae outbreaks (one or two isolated spots) may require only two or three caps of sodium bromide and three gallons of liquid chlorine. If your algae outbreak is covering the entire pool and the water has turned colors, then consider using 10 capfuls of sodium bromide and 10 gallons of liquid chlorine. Using the “cap” of the yellow trine container, sprinkle your capfuls over the affected areas. Immediately pour the liquid chlorine over the yellow trine. When done correctly, you will notice an immediate color change. Repeat this process throughout the entire pool. . Once your chemicals have been added, run your pool system for as long as possible (24 hours is preferable) Check you pressure gauge periodically (it will rise as the algae dies and moves into the filter) and clean your filter out as needed. The very next day, test your water, and take a look at the pool. You may notice pieces of algae on the floor of the pool, these are most likely dead pieces and can be manually vacuumed up. If any algae has survived the treatment, repeat with the necessary amounts of cal hypo, sodium bromide, and liquid chlorine.. The algae should clear up within two to three days. The filter may need to be cleaned/recharged multiple times throughout the process. Once finished, the key to easy pool maintenance is keeping your chlorine levels on point throughout the week and keeping your equipment in good working order.

About the Author: Adrian Samaniego is a content writer with Vida Pool Services. He helps the pool pros at Vida Pool Services write concise articles for interested Houston Pool Owners.

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EWW! My Pool Turned Green!

Your pool has turned green, your wife is yelling at you, the kids want to swim - what do you do? Now, the kid at the pool store points you towards a bunch of different chemicals and tells you to throw them in and pray. So, is the kid at the pool store right, or is there another way to kill algae? Short answer is YES, it is 100% possible to kill all the algae in your pool using only chlorine but it will take work and will require you to be able to test your pool water yourself and to be able to clean your filter on your own. In the event it sounds intimidating, a pain, or simply just not you - then call a local pool service company to come and help. So you know your pool’s size in gallons, you are aware how to check for Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, PH and Cyanuric Acid. The target for the approach is to try to sustain our Free Chlorine Level a minimum of 15ppm over your pool’s typical chlorine requirement. We will keep it this high until the water is crystal clear, the algae has disappeared, and we do not lose more than 0.5 ppm of chlorine overnight. Note - our PH must be steady near 7.2-7.4 throughout this procedure. This will help the chlorine. Also, we will need to take into consideration our Cyanuric acid levels because this determines our normal chlorine requirements. To begin this process bring your PH levels between 7.2 and 7.4 ppm. This allows the chlorine to function at its peak capacity. Next, add either Liquid Chlorine or Calcium Hypochlorite in your pool until the chlorine level climbs up to a minimum of 15ppm over your normal chlorine requirement. Avoid using Tri-chlor or Di-chlor based chlorine products during this process - they will raise your Cyanuric Acid levels too rapidly. In the course of this procedure you will need to operate your pump 24/7. Look at your filter frequently throughout this procedure. If the pressure starts to rise 5-10 psi above normal, clean out the filter (or backwash) and recharge it with DE if necessary. Look at the chemical levels in your pool as often as possible (Every hour if possible). You will have to maintain the high chlorine levels as consistently as you can. It could take 1-4 days for the pool to clean up. You know your pool is algae free when you have combined chlorine of lower than 0.5ppm, your water is crystal clear, and you lose less than 0.5ppm of chlorine overnight. Tips: Ensure that you use a FAS-DPD chlorine test kit that will detect chlorine levels above 10ppm. When you add chlorine to the pool, brush the walls and floor of your pool to move the algae. Steer clear of an algaecide or adding any other chemicals than the ones required for this method, this calls for a small amount of patience and faith. Once you cleared up your pool, be sure you sustain appropriate chlorine levels to ensure that this doesn't take place in the future. Always check your water after a big storm or a big party. If this all seems very not fun, feel free to call a local pool cleaning service.