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Tell Me More About Cyanuric Acid

In a lot of our articles we mention the dangers of having a high Cyanuric acid level. Why do you keep bringing it up? Or you may say, “Well mine is at 150ppm and my water is crystal clear - so what’s the big deal?”

  These are all valid questions and we would applaud you for asking them. Asking questions is crucial if you want to avoid being gutted by your local big name pool store. Cyanuric acid is a tricky subject. The recommended Cyanuric Acid Levels are 30-60 ppm but we've seen pools with crazy levels above 300 ppm.

  Cyanuric acid is basically a sun blocker for your free chlorine. It works to "stabilize" the chlorine so that chlorine can stay in the water and not break down under the sun's intense UV rays. Without Cyanuric Acid, your pool would lose its chlorine levels quickly - within hours. Low Cyanuric Acid levels are not terrible, they just mean that you will need to use more chlorine throughout your pool season. When the Cyanuric Acid levels begin to become high, you will need to hold a higher Free Chlorine residual in order to have the same comparative sanitation power. In normal people terms - let the levels get out of control and your chlorine will not be as effective as before. Consequently, you will need to add more and more chlorine in order to maintain your normal levels of sanitation.

  Tri-Chlor comes with Cyanuric Acid built into it. Each time you add a Tri-Chlor tablet to your pool you also add a few ppm of Cyanuric Acid. Do this for a long enough amount of time and you will build up a Cyanuric Acid level over 60ppm (unless you get a lot of rain fall or have a lot of water loss). So what do you do if it gets high?

  It's not the most difficult thing in the world. A Houston Pool Cleaning trick is to simply stop using Tri-Chlor or Di-Chlor based products. Switch to liquid chlorine or Calcium-Hypochlorite and use that for a few months. If you do that consistently your Cyanuric Acid levels will go down as water is splashed out or removed. If this seems like a pain to you, or you have very cheap water in your area, then you can always drain the pool down ¾ of the way and refill the water. Draining your pool will lower your Cyanuric Acid level rapidly.

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Don't Forget To Clean Out Your Pump Basket

Pool pumps are the heart of your swimming pool system. Pool pumps are the workhouses of swimming pool systems. They move the water throughout the system in an efficient manner.

  Despite this crucial fact, most people forget a crucial step while cleaning their swimming pools - checking and emptying their pump basket. The pump basket is normally located in front of the pump motor in the pump housing. It is generally a circular plastic basket with a net like pattern. The purpose of this basket is to catch any debris that may have slipped through the skimmers or an in pool vacuum. The basket serves as the last line of defense and prevents large pieces of debris from hitting your pump impeller or from making their way into your pool filter.

  So, how do you clean this basket out? Start by turning the pump off. Next, open the lid and make sure to set aside the O-ring. If the lid is tough to get off here's a pool service tip: take a long screwdriver and use it as a larger handle - or let a little bit of air out of the filter. Take the basket out and inspect it for holes, tears or other signs of damage. You can clean the basket out with a hose or with a small brush. Place the basket back into its housing, and then fill the pump area with water. Quickly place the O-Ring and lid back onto the housing and tighten them. Routinely lubricating the O-ring will help make sure the seal is tight. Turn your pump back on and allow a few seconds for the pump to prime. Letting a little bit of air out of the filter can help speed this up.

  That’s all there is too it. Keep this basket in good shape and you will save yourself a huge amount of headaches. As soon as you see any wear or tear replace the basket - never leave the pump on without a basket in place.

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Inline Chlorinators - An Introduction

Often referred to as automatic chlorinators, inline chlorinators are usually tall cylinder like compartments that are plumbed into your pool plumbing system. These are plumbed into your system after the filter so that the water can run through the pump, into the filter, and then pass through the chlorinator before returning to the swimming pool.

  Inline chlorinators typically use the 3 or 1 inch “tabs” of Tri-Chlor and fairly common in residential and small commercial applications. Users can easily deposit a certain amount of tabs into the feeder and then allow the system to move the water throughout the pool. Inline chlorinators depend on the water being able to move throughout the system, so while the pump is off, no chlorine will be getting into the pool. This can require a bit of experimentation on the inline chlorinator settings in order to ensure that your pool received the necessary amount of chlorine. A good way to figure out your magic recipe is to test your water several hours after filling your chlorinator and then test it each day. When your chlorine begins to dip too low, you know that length in which your tabs will last at the current chlorinator setting, when the chlorine is too high, you know when to add less tabs. If you choose to do this without testing the water, you will definitely be working blind.

  A key consideration of an inline chlorinator is that it will encourage you to use Tri-Chlor tablets year around. This means that you will be raising your Cyanuric acid levels significantly and it is advisable to test your Cyanuric acid levels at least once a month. Here's a handy pool service tip: When your Cyanuric acid approaches 100ppm stop using Tri-Chlor tabs and transition to using Calcium Hypochlorite or Sodium Hypochlorite. Even better - use your chlorinator throughout the hot months (checking your Cyanuric acid levels each month) and then transition to the other forms of chlorine in the winter. After a few hot weeks of using non Tri-Chlor or Di Chlor your Cyanuric acid levels will begin to decrease on their own (due to evaporation and splash out).

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A Deeper Dive into Salt Water Pools:

The inline chlorine generators often found in salt water pools have indicator lights that inform pool owners as to when it is time to adjust salt levels. Regardless, pool owners should regularly test the salt water levels of their pool. Normal salt water levels should remain within 2,500 and 3,000 parts per million. Salt levels that fall below 2,500 ppm will cause unhealthy bacteria to start growing in the pool.

  In regard to adding salt to a pool, it should be dumped into the deep end of the pool. Still, check the manufacturer's instructions on any salt bags prior to dumping it into your pool. Most chlorine systems possess self-cleaning mechanisms. Pool owners should be in the habit of checking their salt cells and the electrical system once a month to check for anything out of the ordinary. Salt cells can be replaced by a local pool technician and any wiring issues should be addressed by a qualified electrician. The inline chlorine generator system in the key to maintaining a health salt water pool.

  One case when a saltwater pool owner has to add chlorine to a pool is after heavy rainfall. Salt can settle to the bottom of a pool where it produces a brownish-yellow look. Pool brushes, and some of the stain removal methods mentioned on this blog, can help remove the stains. It may also be necessary to add Cyanuric Acid to your pool in order for the water to be able to hold the chlorine levels in the event of extreme heat. This usually occurs because the sun breaks down chlorine chemical properties. It is advisable to test your Cyanuric acid levels once a month in order to make sure that the levels stay within the 20-60 ppm range. The above listed tips can help you reduce the chlorine loss and help you maintain your pool all year.

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Some of the Pros of A Saltwater Pool

Considering saltwater pools are not as common as fresh water pools, many people may not be aware of all of the advantages that come with installing a saltwater pool in the backyard. By taking these advantages into consideration, many will see that saltwater pools can be just as easy to maintain as traditional pools. There are numerous benefits of a saltwater pool, these include: Low maintenance, fewer chemicals, comfort, and cost.

  Low Maintenance: Saltwater pool owners rave about the system’s self-cleaning chlorine generator. The generator adds a regulated amount of salt to the pool water, which converts the saltwater mixture into chlorine. This the produces chlorine and allows the pool to remain sanitary. It is worth noting, that some owners may still need to add small amounts of chlorine to shock or otherwise retain the proper residual amount of Free Chlorine.

  Fewer Chemicals: Since the generator can help produce chlorine, fewer outside chemicals are often needed. This means that the burning of eyes and skin is often reduced. Saltwater pool owners do not have to store toxic chemicals, thus eliminating chlorine’s pungent odor from their basements and garages.

  Comfort Swimmers: Those who have used chlorine-treated pools for years immediately notice the softness of saltwater-treated systems. Salt is softer on the skin and it does not cause the itchy skin or stinging red eyes experienced by swimmers in chlorine-treated swimming pools. Multiple large scale surveys rated salt-water pools as the go to choice for swimmers with sensitive skin or eyes.

  Cost: The initial purchase price of a saltwater pool scares away some prospective pool owners. However, the initial upfront investment pales in comparison to the savings that saltwater pool owners enjoy during the life of their saltwater pools. Pool maintenance, chemicals, and pool technician costs are significantly lower. Estimates place maintenance and supply costs at less than half of the cost of chlorine-treated pools.

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How To: Removing Organic Pool Stains

There are three ways to remove stains of this type. The first is to attach an emery stone to your swimming pool cleaning pole and rub off the stain. While this method is the quickest and the easiest, it may not work, even with a lot of elbow grease. This method is definitely a workout, and you may find it difficult to transfer a lot of force down to the stone. This method also tends to gouge the plaster and can leave a visible mark after the stain is removed.

  The second method what you can do is turn off your pump and wait for the water stop moving. Gently pour a small part of Calcium Hypochlorite (in powder form) on top of the stain. Wait at least twenty minutes and the stain should bleach away. In a few circumstances (such as if you have a colored/vinyl pool surface) this method will produce a white stain of its own. In these circumstances try to let the powder sit for 3-5 minutes and then brush off. This should minimize the risk of developing a stain. If you have a lot of stains, try one spot first and see how it works before pouring chlorine on all the stains.

  If you have a stain on the pool wall or on a tricky spot, there is a handy pool service tip that you can try. Pour about one quarter to one half pound of chlorine into a panty hose or a long sock. You can then tie a string or tie the sock/pantyhose around the end of the stain and lower it so that it begins to rub up against the stain. Important: do not "dab" the sock in and out of the pool - once it goes underwater - leave it there. Cal-hypo can create a chemical reaction when water is added to it - there have been cases where it can begin to produce heat - avoid this by leaving the sock or panty hose submerged and around the stain until the chlorine has been absorbed into the water.

  The third and best method for removing stains on a plastered pool requires getting in the pool. First, you will need some wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store. It also helps to have goggles or a scuba mask so that you can see underwater. You can then use the sandpaper to sand off the stain - it should be smoothed off fairly easily. This Houston pool service method leaves a smooth surface and a much less noticeable result to your plaster. Do not try this with a power sander it is very dangerous and you can hurt not only yourself but the plaster around the pool.

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Vitamin C Pill and Metal Stains In Your Pool

Years and years of "pool store pushed" metal based algaecides can take a toll on your pool and leave stains. Luckily, there is a very easy, all natural, way to identify and treat a metal based stain. It involves your regular Vitamin C tablets (the kind for oral consumption) and a little bit of elbow grease.

  To start naturally getting rid of pool stains, open your pack of Vitamin C pills (Preferably colorless and white) and place a tablet directly onto the site of the stain. If the stain is on a vertical wall you may have to scrub the tablet into the stain. After leaving the pill alone for about a minute, it will begin to dissolve. Scrub the dissolved powder into the stain and wait about two more minutes.

  After you've waited for a few minutes, remove the excess powder and check out your results. If the stain area looks visibly whiter, then you officially have a metal based stain. This is often caused by algaecides or other “water clarifier” products. Here's an old Houston pool cleaning guy trick: if the stain still looks untouched and you don't see any color change try rubbing a trichlor tablet over the stain (while wearing gloves). If you begin to see a difference, then your stain was not metal based but rather organic based.

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Upside down Skimmer Basket?

As a pool owner, every now and then you are faced with some odd issues. One friend of ours recently asked us about a skimmer basket that seems to like to do some swimming of its own.

  This is a fairly common problem - when the pump is off, the skimmer basket will slowly float upwards and then flip upside down. This can be slightly problematic because once it flips upside down, the debris that was contained in the basket will pour down to the skimmer base, then once the pump turns on, all of the debris will be sucked up in to the system.

  A quick and easy way to combat this is to find a rock from your garden and place it in the basket. This can help keep the skimmer basket situated correctly. A quick tip - make sure the rock is bigger than the skimmer opening so that it can't get accidentally sucked into the line. This is a simple Houston pool cleaning tip for homeowners faced with skimmer baskets with a mind of their own.

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Calcium Hypochlorite - More Than Just "Shock"

In our last post we discussed Trichlor as a chlorine sanitizer. After Trichlor, Calcium Hypochlorite is the most commonly used form of Chlorine Sanitizer. Typically marketed as “shock”, this powdered form of chlorine is ideal for non-vinyl non-colored pools. Depending on your pool size you may have to use a few pounds of the product, yet in some areas the price per unit may be cheaper than Trichlor.

If your pool has at least 30ppm of Cyanuric Acid it is entirely possible to maintain your pool only using this option. When using this chlorine product, be sure to disperse the product thoroughly throughout the pool and to brush the powder as it settles so that it does not accumulate in one big pile on the floor of your pool. Another handy pool guy tip is to use a pre weighed scooper and to pour the calcium hypochlorite into your leaf net. Then move quickly around the pool with your net to disperse the chlorine evenly around the pool.

Calculating the correct dosage amount for your pool is often much easier and exact than dosing with a 3" Trichlor puck. Depending on the concentration of the Cal-Hypo and the size of your pool, a pound or two will be able to raise the chlorine in your pool by 10ppm. This can often be enough to last an entire week. Some pool technicians like to use a mix of Calcium Hypochlorite and Trichlor in order to ensure that chlorine stays in the water throughout the week.

Although Calcium Hypochlorite does not contain Cyanuric acid, prolonged use of Calcium Hypochlorite will raise your Calcium Hardness levels in your pool. High Calcium hardness levels will begin to affect the flow of water in the pool, the state of the equipment, and the clarity of the water. Similar to Cyanuric Acid - the only way to reduce the amount of calcium hardness in a pool is to partially drain the water and refill the water.

Calcium Hypochlorite is another popular form of Chlorine sanitizer that is very versatile. Although it does not contain Cyanuric Acid, Cal-Hypo can be measured exactly and can be easily administered in most pools.

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Using Chlorine as Your Sanitizer:

Chlorine based sanitizers are the most popular swimming pool sanitizers across the world. Chances are, most pools you swam in used some form of chlorine to sanitize the water and keep the swimming pool safe to swim in. In this post, we will be discussing the most popular form of chlorine sanitizer - The Trichlor Tablet (1 and 3 inch varieties). Due to its popularity of use, Chlorine comes in a large variety of product types. Chances are that your local pool store has a huge variety of chlorine sanitizer types and packaging sizes. Trichlor tablets are the most commonly used form of chlorine in residential situations and the standard 3 inch tablet form is available at most stores that sell pool supplies. Trichlor Tablets: This is probably the most commonly used form of chlorine in the residential setting. It is the standard “hockey puck” style of chlorine that can be placed in floaters or specially designed inline chlorinators. Compared to other forms of chlorine, this type of chlorine includes Cyanuric Acid. Cyanuric Acid is best described as sunscreen for chlorine. It helps the chlorine stay in the direct sunlight for longer and can therefore reduce your chlorine needs. . When Cyanuric Acid levels are kept within 30-50ppm everything can work in ideal manner.. However, exclusive use of Trichlor tablets for an entire swimming season will usually raise Cyanuric Acid levels to unreasonably high levels. High Cyanuric acid levels can require higher amounts of chlorine in order to kill bacteria and are not advisable. So, check your Cyanuric Acid Levels once a month in order to keep an eye on them. If you find that your levels are rising quickly and are near/over 100ppm, then switch to another form of chlorine until the levels drop again. When dosing the pool with Trichlor tablets, a little experimentation will be necessary. First, figure out the size of your pool and the current Free Chlorine levels within the water. Next, add three to five tablets to your floater or your inline chlorinator. Check your chlorine levels continuously over the next few days and adjust your chlorine as needed. In regards to practicality, most pools can be maintained with a combination of Trichlor and either Cal-Hypo or Liquid Chlorine. Interestingly, Trichlor seems to work best when there is already a small chlorine residual in the pool. If your chlorine levels are very low, then use either liquid chlorine or Cal-Hypo (Calcium Hypochlorite) to raise the chlorine levels first, and then add the Trichlor. The same is true if you find that you need to shock your pool. Does this seem too tricky? Give Vida Pool Services, your local pool cleaning company, a call and have them help you plan your chlorine needs.

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How To Skim Your Pool With A Leaf Net and Pole

If there is one image that is synonymous with “pool cleaning” it is the image of a guy, a telescopic pole, and a leaf net skimming the surface of the water. Yes, it looks basic and like something that anyone can do. Regardless, there is definitely a technique to using the leaf net. So, what is the secret to using your leaf net? The pool pole (preferably telescopic) is the most handy pool cleaning tool in your arsenal. You would be surprised at all the things that a pool tech can use the telescopic pole for. The reason that we are mentioning the importance of a telescopic pole is because if you want to effectively skim your pool, then you have to be able to extend and retract the pole as necessary. Your pole should be long enough to reach the bottom of the deep end with you standing at your normal height and body posture. Your local pool store may never admit this, but some very good pool poles can be bought online through amazon for $40 - $70 dollars. Look for ones that twist screw and extend.. Now that you have a sturdy telescopic pole, attach your leaf net to the base of the pole. When skimming the surface of the pool, the mouth of your net should be about halfway submerged so that water can easily and quickly flow through the net. If there is a lot of debris then skim around the edge of the pool first (to stir up any debris alongside the edges of the pool) and then work your way into the middle of the water’s surface. As your net fills up it will become heavier, most pool cleaning techs will either have a trash can or trash bag at the edge of the pool for quick trash disposal. If there are any large debris on the floor of the pool, it is entirely possible to use your leaf net to pick up debris from the floor of the pool. To grab debris from the bottom of the pool, extend your pole so that the mouth of the leaf net hits the floor of the pool.Allow the opening of the leaf net to point away from you, and then gently slide the lip of the net towards the debris. The debris should naturally fall into the leaf net.. A quick tip - for small leaves and twigs try gently nudging the net forward until the item begins to rest on the lip and then fall into the basket. Now you know a few quick tips about using your leaf net and telescopic pole. Regularly skimming your pool can help it stay looking perfect year around. It can also be a good workout - a lot of friends love "assigning" this duty to teenage boys who have too much energy.

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Manually Vacuuming an Inground Pool

Vacuuming your swimming pool year around can help your pool remain crystal clear all year. It will help you remove unwanted debris and dirt from the pool bottom and will help extend the life and texture of your pool’s surface.

Although it looks tricky, manually vacuuming a pool is quite easy. . Most modern pools have one (or multiple) skimmers located around the water’s edge. If you take off the skimmer cap and look down into the opening, then you will notice that there are two openings at the base. When the pump is on your will notice that one side has suction while the other side does not. Some modern pools may have more than one skimmer, if this is the case then check each of them to figure out which side has the most suction. The skimmer closest to the pool equipment will have the most amount of suction.

To get started vacuuming - first remove the skimmer basket from the simmer which you would like to vacuum from. Then turn the pump on and allow the system to prime and begin to move water. Then connect the vacuum to the pole and the hose to the vacuum. Then place the vacuum head, pole, and attached hose into the pool. Slowly run the hose into the pool until the hose is fully submerged. Once the hose is submerged, you can place your hand over the submerged end of the hose. Keeping your hand there, quickly move the hose end into the skimmer area and remove your hand once the end is underwater again. This will help prevent air from entering the line. Direct the hose end to the opening in the skimmer. Once the end of the hose moves close to the skimmer opening, you should feel the suction grab the hose. Now that your hose is attached to your skimmer, and you have no air entering the system, you are ready to vacuum. You can spot vacuum or vacuum the pool floor as you would a house. Just moving back and forth and picking up all of the debris and dirt. Once done, be sure to remove the hose attached to the skimmer first, and then pull the vacuum head and pole out of the water. So, what happened to all of the debris and dirt that got sucked up? Well, all of that debris has to go somewhere and it will end up in your pump basket. The pump basket lid will only come off with the pump off. Clean out your basket, put it back in the pump, fill the basket area up with water, and then close the pump basket area again. Place your skimmer basket back into the skimmer and then roll up your vacuum hose and store your equipment.

Hooray! That's all there is to it - you just vacuumed your pool like a Houston pool cleaning company pro. Vacuuming your pool regularly is like brushing your teeth. The more consistently you do it the better.

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Pressure Gauges for Pool Owners

The pressure gauge that is installed on your filter is among the most significant components in the pool system. For most, the pressure gauge is a tool that few use or care to look at. Nonetheless the gauge will tell you a variety of information that is extremely handy for a concerned pool owner. One of the first numbers that the pool owner should take note of is the “baseline” number for their pressure gauge. This number indicates the psi reflected whenever the filter, pump, and pool are clean and fully operational. Your baseline number is essentially the psi reading for the pool when everything is ideal. When you know your baseline number it is then possible to identify potential issues. When the psi starts to increase, this signifies that a substantial amount of debris and organic matter is being caught inside the filter. This tends to indicate that it's time for a filter cleaning and for additional filter elements. A quick rule is to examine your filter as soon as the psi has risen by 5psi or more. Backwashing, filter cleaning, and element additions all can help return the psi to the baseline. When you notice that your pressure has increased substantially over a short period of time, this can often indicate an algae issue or is the result of a strong rainstorm. Occasionally you will see that the pressure has dropped beneath the baseline. This could reflect that a leak exists, there's a buildup of debris inside the system, or that there is an issue from the pump. If the pressure has lowered un-intentionally (meaning you didn’t just backwash the system) this suggests that water is not moving through the system at the same rate as before. Air leaks, water leaks, clogs, or mechanical issues can all be issues here. Finally, pressure gauges do occasionally need to be replaced. If your gauge reads 0 psi or is stuck on another number, then it's possible that your gauge has broken or needs to be otherwise replaced. Typical gauges are inexpensive and are easy to replace. To replace one simply shut off the system. Unscrew the old gauge. Wrap the threads of the new gauge with plumbers tape in direction of the thread. Then screw in the new gauge. Turn on the system and ensure that no air is leaking out of the gauge location. Pressure gauges are the few constant providers of information for homeowners with traditional pool setups. They can show you the status of your system and provide you with quick hints onto preventative pool maintenance needs.

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How To Blow Out A Clog In Your Pool Pipes

Your swimming pool picks up a lot of debris throughout the year. Sometimes, debris can get together and clog one of your pool lines. A debris induced clog will regularly occur after a big storm and in between cleanings. A big enough clog can restrict the water flow and prevent your pump from priming. So, here are a few tips to preventing clogs and to getting rid of them. In regards to prevention, it is advisable to take a look at your skimmer baskets at least twice per week. When emptying them, be sure to turn the system off first. Often times homeowners will empty the basket with the system still on, and a large amount of debris will fall into the system throughout the process.  Here's a quick pool cleaning company hint: If you find that the baskets appear upside down when you check on them, place a rock or other weight in the basket in order to keep it in position. In some pools, baskets have a tendency to float up to the top of the skimmer and flip upside down while the system is off. Then the pump will kick on as scheduled and suck all sorts of debris into the lines. Let’s say you have now developed a clog and your pump will not prime. The most basic way to remove a light clog is to turn the system on, and work the spa/pool or main drain/skimmer valves. This means GENTLY moving the handle setting from main to skimmer or from spa to pool in an effort to jar any of the buildup loose. You will know if you have succeeded if a large amount of water and debris suddenly rush into the pump. If the clog is significant, simply working the valves may not be enough. You can purchase a blow-bag or bladder attachment for your garden hose that will help to add to more pressure. This attachment screws on the end of your garden hose and then fills up to about the size of balloon while shooting water out of the end tip. To start with, position the blow-bag in to the pipe that feeds the pump. So you'll open the pump basket, and insert the blow bag and hose in to the pipe that generally feeds the pump with water. Turn your hose on and then place your hand at the skimmer openings to fell if water is moving. You should begin to feel water coming out. If no water is coming out then you have identified the line with the clog. You can then insert the blow-bag into the appropriate skimmer line and then back into the pump and work them until the debris is jarred free. This might take a little time. If this does not work, you can do the same process but with CO2. The compressed gas and hose can be rented through your local hardware store and you can shoot isolated bursts directly into the line. The attachments and nozzles will become very cold so be careful and wear glasses and gloves and avoid touching your skin with the machinery. If you are shooting the CO2 towards the pump, be sure that the pump basket lid is open. Now, if working the valves, using the blow-bag, and CO2 bursts did not work, then be sure you check the pump to make sure the issue is not there. If you continue to have problems then get in touch with your local pool maintenance company.

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Learn How to Get Rid Of Algae Like A Pro

Our last article talked about killing algae without the algaecide. As mentioned it is a relatively simple process that requires steady discipline and a hell of a lot of chlorine. You may ask, but the pool guys can clear algae up in two visits - how do they do that? It is a good question, algae removal is a very common gateway service for a pool service company and a potential customer. The pool cleaning service can clean up the algae, and then pitch for the regular service contract. So how do they make that happen? In short - it depends on the company, some prefer copper based algaecides while others prefer sodium bromide. Today we will discuss the extremely effective treatment option of sodium bromide and chlorine. First, we must always remember that Algae is a living organism. Which means that it needs several conditions in order to exist: • Very low amounts of sterilizing agent (Chlorine dipping low) • Proper water temperature (the warmer the better) • Low amounts of water circulation (the less the water is circulating the better) A mixture of low sanitizer levels and any of the other two options and algae will find a way to bloom. So, in order to kill algae we must increase the sanitizer levels and correct any water circulation problems True we could find a way to lower the water temperature - but most homeowners like to swim in comfortable water levels. Ready to go algae hunting - you will need: • Sodium Bromide (We use Yellow Trine - we use it for all colors of algae) • Liquid Chlorine (You can find this at most hardware stores - try to find 10% or 12% if you can) • Calcium Hypo-chlorite (Pool store kids will tell you it's actually called shock. • A sturdy pool pole and a pool brush • Pool Chemistry kit and knowledge • Since you may have to clean the filter several times - basic pool filter cleaning is needed To begin with a thorough check of all equipment is necessary. Any full baskets should be cleaned out, filters and pressure gauges should be checked, and everything should be in good working order. Without a properly running filter and pump, algae will continue to return and never clear up. Next, we must make sure that our PH levels are between 7.2-7.4. Keeping the PH within this range will help the chlorine fight any organics. Most pool service techs look at the total alkalinity readings in the pool and lower the alkalinity with muriatic acid. This will in turn lower the PH. With your PH now in range, the chlorine levels must be brought up 15ppm above the recommended point (at minimum - you can bring them up further).. Remember that your baseline chlorine requirements depend on your cyanuric acid levels. To quickly raise the chlorine levels, use Calcium Hypochlorite (typically sold as shock). You can pour this directly into the skimmer opening (be sure to take out any baskets though). Depending on the amount of gallons in your pool, this can typically require several pounds. It is highly advisable to avoid any tri-chlor or di-chlor products throughout this process as they will raise your cyanuric acid levels tremendously. With the PH levels in the correct range, the sanitizer levels at least 15 parts per million above baseline, and your pool system is up and running. Next, brush the walls and floor of the pool vigorously so that any attached algae can become dislodged. The severity of the algae bloom will dictate the amount of sodium bromide and the amount of liquid chlorine needed. Mild algae outbreaks (one or two isolated spots) may require only two or three caps of sodium bromide and three gallons of liquid chlorine. If your algae outbreak is covering the entire pool and the water has turned colors, then consider using 10 capfuls of sodium bromide and 10 gallons of liquid chlorine. Using the “cap” of the yellow trine container, sprinkle your capfuls over the affected areas. Immediately pour the liquid chlorine over the yellow trine. When done correctly, you will notice an immediate color change. Repeat this process throughout the entire pool. . Once your chemicals have been added, run your pool system for as long as possible (24 hours is preferable) Check you pressure gauge periodically (it will rise as the algae dies and moves into the filter) and clean your filter out as needed. The very next day, test your water, and take a look at the pool. You may notice pieces of algae on the floor of the pool, these are most likely dead pieces and can be manually vacuumed up. If any algae has survived the treatment, repeat with the necessary amounts of cal hypo, sodium bromide, and liquid chlorine.. The algae should clear up within two to three days. The filter may need to be cleaned/recharged multiple times throughout the process. Once finished, the key to easy pool maintenance is keeping your chlorine levels on point throughout the week and keeping your equipment in good working order.

About the Author: Adrian Samaniego is a content writer with Vida Pool Services. He helps the pool pros at Vida Pool Services write concise articles for interested Houston Pool Owners.

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EWW! My Pool Turned Green!

Your pool has turned green, your wife is yelling at you, the kids want to swim - what do you do? Now, the kid at the pool store points you towards a bunch of different chemicals and tells you to throw them in and pray. So, is the kid at the pool store right, or is there another way to kill algae? Short answer is YES, it is 100% possible to kill all the algae in your pool using only chlorine but it will take work and will require you to be able to test your pool water yourself and to be able to clean your filter on your own. In the event it sounds intimidating, a pain, or simply just not you - then call a local pool service company to come and help. So you know your pool’s size in gallons, you are aware how to check for Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, PH and Cyanuric Acid. The target for the approach is to try to sustain our Free Chlorine Level a minimum of 15ppm over your pool’s typical chlorine requirement. We will keep it this high until the water is crystal clear, the algae has disappeared, and we do not lose more than 0.5 ppm of chlorine overnight. Note - our PH must be steady near 7.2-7.4 throughout this procedure. This will help the chlorine. Also, we will need to take into consideration our Cyanuric acid levels because this determines our normal chlorine requirements. To begin this process bring your PH levels between 7.2 and 7.4 ppm. This allows the chlorine to function at its peak capacity. Next, add either Liquid Chlorine or Calcium Hypochlorite in your pool until the chlorine level climbs up to a minimum of 15ppm over your normal chlorine requirement. Avoid using Tri-chlor or Di-chlor based chlorine products during this process - they will raise your Cyanuric Acid levels too rapidly. In the course of this procedure you will need to operate your pump 24/7. Look at your filter frequently throughout this procedure. If the pressure starts to rise 5-10 psi above normal, clean out the filter (or backwash) and recharge it with DE if necessary. Look at the chemical levels in your pool as often as possible (Every hour if possible). You will have to maintain the high chlorine levels as consistently as you can. It could take 1-4 days for the pool to clean up. You know your pool is algae free when you have combined chlorine of lower than 0.5ppm, your water is crystal clear, and you lose less than 0.5ppm of chlorine overnight. Tips: Ensure that you use a FAS-DPD chlorine test kit that will detect chlorine levels above 10ppm. When you add chlorine to the pool, brush the walls and floor of your pool to move the algae. Steer clear of an algaecide or adding any other chemicals than the ones required for this method, this calls for a small amount of patience and faith. Once you cleared up your pool, be sure you sustain appropriate chlorine levels to ensure that this doesn't take place in the future. Always check your water after a big storm or a big party. If this all seems very not fun, feel free to call a local pool cleaning service.

[poolserviceshouston]

Summer Pool Cleaning Tips for Houston Homeowners

Have you ever wondered what the pool guy actually does? Well here are a couple pool cleaning advice for Houston property owners: Analyze your pools chemical levels2-3 times per week while in the summer and only once each week in the wintertime. The pool service technician will commonly check this once a week and make an effort to level the water with the upcoming 7 days under consideration. Thoroughly clean you swimming pool area as often as possible. Auto Pool Cleaning Machines don't mean you don’t ever need to clean. At some point the auto cleaner will get jam packed with leaves and debris, and will have to be emptied. Moreover, scrubbing the swimming pool walls is an excellent approach to remove layers of dirt and grime that may be too small for your automatic pool cleaner. Manually vacuuming is also a good way to keep your pool looking brand new. Clean out skimmer basket(s) each week. You might be amazed the things those little baskets catch. Everything from excess hair, food, toys, and debris find themselves in there. Thoroughly clean hair and lint pot in the pump every few weeks or on a more frequent basis. Shut off the pump to execute this. This is actually the basket that is in the pump. It is your last line of protection and should be treated adequately. Check and keep track of the pool water level at least once per month, modify as necessary. The swimming pool's water level ought to be at the center of the tile line or skimmer opening. In Houston, TX we often have temperature ranges over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. With that said, try to keep a watchful eye on your pool during the entire week. You'd be shocked just how much water can evaporate from the hot Texas sun. Check Inline Chlorinator at least once every week for correct adjustment. Check flow as needed when you check chlorine measurements. Make sure that chlorine tablets are located in the system, change as necessary to maintain adequate chlorine levels. Inline chlorinators need a bit of experimentation before you will get it correct. If at all possible, look at the chlorine levels each day and alter your chlorinator as required before you figure out the correct combination. Make certain that light is on in the ozone unit, for those who have one. Crack valve only slightly at the pump. Be careful not to break any of the connections -- they may be fragile. Check flow-meter often to ensure adjustment is in range. Lucky you if you have a residential ozone unit. Check to make certain everything is on and be careful not to ever break any of the connections. Clean your filters as soon as you notice the pressure on the pressure gauge rising about 6psi over its standard level (also, be sure that your pressure gauge works - they tend to die out). This might be necessary right after a heavy storm or once every few months depending on conditions inside your pool. It might be best to clean them about each and every 4-6 months. Just remind yourself to clean them whenever you come home from your dentist, or any time you replace the air filters in your home, which needs to be about the same frequency. Should you have an extra set of elements this is a much easier and faster job. Soak dirty filters in a 10% solution of muriatic acid or a solution of trisodium phosphate. Use a rubber trash can. Wear gloves and eye protection. Be careful. Always add acid to water, NEVER ADD water to acid. Rinse until clean and allow them to dry. Store your supplies away until your next swap-out. Since you are monitoring and taking pleasure in your pool, be aware: Are your returns very weak? Is the in-floor cleaning system not working very well, do you not have a lot of suction? Is the water clarity beginning to look bad, is the water becoming cloudy? If any of these conditions exist, it is likely time to clean the filters. Most pools should need this done a few times a year. However, pools that accumulate a great deal of debris or are heavily used, may need more regular cleanings. Wipe and clean tile line every week. This will certainly decrease build-up. If you can do that regularly, at minimum twice a month (only takes 10 minutes each time) then you can prevent nasty tile build up. We recommend using a small wire hair algae brush to clear out any pollen or accumulated debris. Should you have a salt water generator than you will need to check and clean the blades in the unit about every 30 days. If the red flow light or flow meter is on or reading less than normal, then the blades are generally calcified and producing little to zero chlorine. Turn the pump off, bleed off any pressure, undo the unions and clean the blades per the manufacturer's recommendations. Continue to keep chemicals stored out of direct sunlight. Keep them in a cool dry place. Please do not store acid and chlorine right next to each other. Your pool should not need to be shocked on any consistent basis if you have an ozone system. If you wish to do it, do it during the night. Use non-chorine based shock if you plan on swimming any time soon. A brief note on “shocking” - shocking is an activity one does to your pool. When you shock the pool it implies that you're raising the sanitation level to a high point in order to eliminate organic compounds from the water. Your area pool store loves to sell you “shock”. You actually only have to shock your pool when indicated (when your combined chlorine levels are above 0.5 or else you have experienced a heavy rain storm/ debris build up). Don't forget: the pool store makes money when you buy chemicals, they will convince you to definitely buy and use more chemicals - it’s their occupation. Should you start seeing any cracks around the perimeter of your pool between your deck and your tile, caulk it using a small bead of clear silicon. Do not allow the water to migrate from inside the pool in and under the deck through cracks at this joint. Keep vegetation, other animals, and chemical products away from and out of the pool. Nitrates from bird droppings and waste from animals and people are food for algae. Don't give food to the algae. Remember, algae is a living organism and it needs certain criteria to develop. Don't create an environment for algae to grow. Proper circulation, proper sanitation levels, regularly cleaning your pool, and removing organic materials from the pool will create an inhospitable environment for algae.