Remember the Crusades?
It is time for us to apologize to fat people. And I don't just mean those individuals among us who walk by the obese feeling somehow superior, I mean the medical industry and the food industry, too. And the government. We all owe people struggling with their weight a super-sized "sorry."
While I don't want to promote a victimization mentality, there is no doubt that all of us have succumbed to one degree or another to the endless marketing that has promoted what it calls "healthy" eating. While I would expect nothing less from Big Food and Big Pharma, the government does marketing, too. It's called Public Health.
And no, I'm not against government, or public health campaigns. Nor am I going to throw the baby out with the bathwater and say that just because we've been mislead in the case of nutrition, that global warming is a scientific hoax. (That comparison was almost instantly made in the comments to the Wall Street Journal's review of Nina Teicholz's new book "The Big Fat Surprise").
In the case of nutrition, science wasn't the problem—as Teicholz describes, the research done in the 1950s contained plenty of examples that contradicted the burgeoning American thesis (forwarded by the influential biologist/pathologist Ancel Keys) that one's risk of heart disease was correlated with dietary saturated fat intake. The problem was that scientists such as Keys refused to abandon their hypotheses even when the evidence didn't support them.
In short, this isn't a problem with the scientific method, but with people who decide (for ego, for money, for who-knows-why) not to hew to its principles, essential among them being the maintaining of objectivity, i.e., the courage to admit your hypotheses were totally wrong if the evidence demonstrates so. That takes a lot of courage and humility in general, and in the context of the time when this work was undertaken (the rise of heart disease as the leading cause of death in America), it would have taken a very particular man to say "we don't know the answer, yet." Keys was not that man. For him, a wrong answer was apparently preferable to no answer at all.
While the shift toward a low-fat diet—total fat became a target in addition to saturated fat by the 1970s—did not solve the heart disease problem (which remains the leading cause of death for American men and women), it succeeded in demonizing dietary fat. As early as the 1920s, fat in food was feared to be the cause of weight gain, and adding the mantra of heart healthiness only worsened the situation. Saturated fat was endorsed by the government as the quintessential dietary evil, and the food industry ran with that message, churning out processed foods with lots of flour and sugar, using no fat at all or new fats (including trans fats) made from processed oils. Cake and cola weren't bad for you because they could be fat- and cholesterol-free—never mind all that sugar! Oh, but you are getting fat? Well, don't eat so much sugar, eat more whole grains! Never mind that bread is the same as Skittles to your bloodstream...
Big Pharma ran with it, too; from a shareholder perspective, there are no better medications than "preventative" ones that people need to remain on for many, many decades. The best example of these are the class of cholesterol-lowering drugs known as statins, under the premise that lowering cholesterol can reduce the risk of heart attack. Millions of Americans are on these drugs, despite the fact that it has been repeatedly demonstrated that: a) dietary and blood cholesterol are not neatly correlated such that lowering one's intake of the former decreases serum cholesterol levels AND b) lower cholesterol levels are not associated with a lower risk of heart disease. And yet these days doctors are now putting children on statins because of the received (profit-producing) dogma that cholesterol is bad.
So... exit fat, enter rampant obesity and Type-II diabetes. Sorry, American public! Naturally the government recognizes this as a huge public health crisis, but so far it shows no real signs of trying to turn the ship around by advising people to add saturated fat to their diets in exchange for carbohydrates (although, it should be said, the AHA and the USDA have quietly removed their consumption caps on overall fat intake). It about broke my heart last week to witness Michelle Obama campaigning on behalf of fruits, veggies and whole grains, given that there is mounting evidence that too many carbohydrates—no matter from fruit or Cheetos!—are themselves at the root of our dietary problems.
But we've gone so far down the fat-is-evil road that, even if the First Lady came out tomorrow on the side of the fat's-not-bad-for-you proponents, the reaction would probably be one of knee-jerk backlash. You want to feed our kids eggs and bacon-sautéd broccoli? With whole milk? You must be sent from the devil! After all, it's very hard to unlearn what our culture has "learned" over the last fifty years (since 1961, when the American Heart Association issued its first low-saturated-fat, low cholesterol diet recommendation).
Not to mention the incredible investment that all sorts of industries (medicine and food in particular) have in the status quo. It is one thing for me, an unknown blogger, to say there's nothing I'd like to see more than the soda and cereal industries to vanish tomorrow (the top two non-food foods in my book), but it would be nearly treasonous for someone whose official role is to be, among other things, unfailingly patriotic, to say such a thing. After all, wishing death on giant multinational corporations is, our capitalist credo tells us, very unpatriotic. Think of the job losses!
Even if medical and governmental establishments eventually start to spread the message that increasing the saturated fat and lowering carbohydrate consumption in their diets can actually be a good thing—not only to promote weight loss but overall health and well-being—it isn't going to be simple to change the way Americans eat. The reason for this is purely economic: the industries that grow, process, and distribute our food aren't based primarily on the delivery of staples such as meat, eggs, milk/cheese, fruits, veggies, and nuts. Ultimately, there's not a lot of money to be made in these less-manipulated food staples. Instead, the profits are where the markup is (hello, cereal aisle, oh, and hey there, soda aisle). That's why Big Food is built on wheat flour, corn (often as a sweetener, i.e., corn syrup) and soybean byproducts (cooking oils). And let's face it, Americans eat a ton of processed foods.
Moreover, the return to the diet of times gone by isn't just a matter of ending the dominance of Big Food, but of returning to the practices that make it unnecessary. As anyone who has tried to deemphasize grain in her diet can tell you, it is rather difficult to do so without cooking for oneself. This goes double if you want to avoid vegetable oils, whose oxidation products (i.e., the result of using them to fry food) could well be devastating to our health. Sadly, now that trans fats have been declared lipo-non-grata, restaurants have no choice but to return to polyunsaturated vegetable oils, which may be even worse! Why is this? Well, because all the saturated fat choices, both from plants (palm oil, coconut oil) and animals (tallow, lard) long ago forced out by the anti-saturated-fat Crusaders.
I don't know whether to laugh or cry at the thought that McDonald's food was less bad for you before it fell victim to the anti-saturated fat Crusade. Yes, that's right. McDonald's used to cook its fries in tallow, and the scientific studies that exist suggest it would be far better for all of us if it—and all other restaurants—started to use saturated fats again. For the last ninety years, we've replaced an age-old ingredient with one whose health consequences are at best dubious, and at worse entirely negative. While correlation isn't enough to prove causation, it should caution all of us to learn that the increased consumption of so-called "vegetable" oils (the term is misleading, because the oils come from seeds, mostly soybeans) is the single greatest change in the American diet in the last 90 years. ("The most striking modification of the US food supply during the 20th century was the >1000-fold increase in the estimated per capita consumption of soybean oil from 0.006% to 7.38% of energy." American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, May 2011 93(5): 950-962)
Until the "bring back tallow" campaign kicks into high hear, the return to more home cooking could be a very good thing. And although the food industry has worked for decades to convince us that cooking is hard, it really isn't. Indeed, what undoubtedly made it hard for many people in recent decades was the handing down of the dogma that lard and butter were off-limits. Because any cook knows that the easiest way to make anything taste better (especially green veggies) is to add fat. In short, not only did we get screwed out of the deliciousness of red meat, we got screwed out of passing down our traditional ways of cooking because it was deemed unhealthy. As one commenter on the WSJ article lamented: "Who do I sue?"
No need to get litigious, just pass the butter.












