Apex Award Designer Profile: Rab
Julie Greengrass
Apex Award Winner
Rab
How did you get your start in design?
I completed a Bachelor of Arts Degree in Fashion Design, followed by a Masters Degree in Performance Sportswear. I have a passion for sport and over the years have dabbled in everything from hockey and basketball to power kiting, cycling, fell running and climbing. I also have a great interest in technical fabrics, and problem solving. All these things come together with my job.
How would you describe your design process? Where do you get your ideas?
First understanding who you’re designing for, and what the product will be used for and then putting together the fabric and features that will create the right product for the job that will have longevity in terms of durability and also style. Or sometimes it’s the other way around and we find a fantastic fabric and can see that it will be perfect for a particular type of customer or activity and the process starts there instead. My ideas can come from anywhere, sometimes it’s from clothing, other times it’s from using a product and needing it to do something that it can’t do. I find looking at other areas of clothing, or other sports or industries inspiring e.g.. footwear, bags, even cars! Anywhere that something has been designed for a purpose there are things to be learnt about design.
What was it about this specific Polartec fabric that intrigued you? What problem did it solve? What role does performance and quality play into your process? How did you decide you needed to work with Polartec?
Ultimately with Polartec NeoShell it’s the fabrics ability to release excess heat and moisture vapour from the garment, without sacrificing the protection from the outside elements. This has enabled us to create garments that offer the user fantastic levels of comfort during activities with a high level of exertion, without sacrificing their protection from wind and water (including melting snow and ice). Reducing the amount the wearer overheats means that there’s less stopping to remove clothing layers, and more incentive to push harder in their activity. These unique levels of performance and high levels of quality are extremely important when designing clothing for extreme conditions, the wearer has to trust the fabric and the brand with their life. Rab and Polartec have a long history of working together. With the introduction of a shell technology this offers up new possibilities to work with Polartec.
What did you think when you won the Polartec Apex Award?
I’m really proud to be part of a strong design team that is regularly credited for award winning design.
What are the current trends that you’re seeing in your industry? What do you like about your industry? Dislikes?
There seems to be a lot going on in insulation at the moment whether it be Polartec Alpha, which we really like and are working with currently; different ways of using down and also new ways of using synthetic insulation. Also clever fabric placement, pattern cutting, laser cutting and bonding to get the best performance like The North Face Fuse Form or the new Adidas Terrex apparel . The sportswear industry is small and sometimes exciting when new technology launches, or someone sets a new trend. My only dislike would be the need to continually update massive amounts of product every year, and in some cases it’s not to make the product better it’s to make it cheaper. This uses a huge amount of resource in terms of fabric, power, water etc and can encourage a throw away culture. This has a tremendous impact on the very environment that we’re designing the clothing for.
What’s the most exciting thing about your job? Most exciting thing about designing?
I love starting work on a new project, you never know what ideas you’re going to come up with this time. I also love how a conversation with the team can turn into a bit of an ideas session and a whole new concept can come out of it. My favourite thing is to see someone wearing something that I designed that they’ve taken on many adventures and has maybe had a few repairs here and there. It’s great to know that I can design products that people truly love enough to repair and trust enough to take on their biggest adventures.
What advice do you have for up-and-coming designers?
Ask lots of questions: to fabric suppliers about how things work and the suitability of that fabric for it’s chosen use, and to garment suppliers about the best way to make things, they might give you something that you hadn’t thought of. Wear your designs and other peoples and learn what works well and what doesn’t. Get out of the bubble of the office when you can to go and look at the competition and other markets. Always try to find ways to make things better and last longer. If you get the opportunity talk to the customer, they won’t give you the best new idea, but they’ll give you a problem that needs solving which leads to new idea.