Tour Diary - Spreading Ourselves Thin
Hey guys. Are you prepared for another excuse as to why this blog has been so slow to come? I was re-reading some and realised I've apologised on pretty much every single one. Well, no more. The reason this one is late is.... I was having too much fun. That's it! No tiredness, no crazy travel (actually, there was). Just plain and simple... I put it on the back burner. I think that does deserve an apology so, I'm sorry. Can't help it. I'm a kiwi after all :)
I'm writing this in the small Austrian town of Weiselburg ahead of a gig (you will notice that by the end I will be in Berlin though). I had much better opportunities to write this. For example, yesterday Richie and I sat in our hotel room all day watching movies and stand up comedy on youtube. What lazy asses right? We were in the beautiful, crazy city of Budapest and chose, of our own volition, to sit around and do what couch potatoes everywhere can do at home. Silly, silly. Sometimes it's just the right thing to do on tour though. The stresses of the road catch up to you and a day bumming around can be the best medicine. I'll get to Budapest shortly but I need to catch up from where we were before. Hmmm, Strasbourg huh.
We had a couple of off days in Strasbourg which is unexpectedly enchanting place. It is right smack dab on the border of France and Germany and has apparently been fought over for centuries. The latest victors were the French who took Strasbourg after World War I. You can see the German influence in the architecture though trying to speak German there is a no no. The region is called the Alsace, and the people there are Alsatian, like our police dogs in NZ. We call those dogs German Shepards, though technically the Alsace is in France, hmm... you can kinda see how mixed up it is there eh?
We had to head to Switzerland after Strasbourg for our next show. We'd played this one before in a picturesque little place called Zug. The stage backs on to a lake where happy people were relaxing or swimming, imbibing and enjoying the Swiss national day we were there to perform at. As the day was oppressively hot this was a good chance to have a swim, or if you're shy about showing your beer gut, fall asleep on the couch allowing the air con to freeze dry your sweat. It's not the picture of Switzerland that is conjured up in films about the alps, where an avalanche would be of more concern than sunburn. Part of me wants to assume this is what summer has always been like in Switzerland but another part carries the nagging worry that this is climate change rearing it's head.
The show was really cool even though we had to cut our set short. The band before us ran over their time and there was a curfew so we had to knock off a few songs. It was a bit of a bummer but that's the way it goes sometimes. A couple of hours later we had to wake up to get to Basel airport. Both times we have played in Zug the following day has been a travel nightmare. Here's the kind of thing you run up against as a touring band:
Last band on at a festival, finish after 1am
Pack down, go to merch, mingle and talk till at least 2am
Get back to accom, wind down after the gig till close to 3am
5am lobby call to leave enough time to drive to airport 100+kms away
Airport check in with a group. I don't need to describe how boring that is
Get on the plane and try and sleep. Delayed in sleeping 'cause you have to have your seatback upright blah blah
Get to next airport, have to drive to next venue
Finally, get a bit of rest!!!
It's not that bad really. When I read it back, it is certainly a 1st world problem that can't even slightly compare to the hardships others go through. But, you do get a little grumpy on no sleep. Doesn't matter who you are.
This little excursion I've described was to get to our next show in the south of France. We played in a town called Vence, very close to all those fancy places we've all heard about like Nice, Canne, St Tropez and Monaco. It was a very lovely place though as usual, we didn't get to see much. Essentially, the following days travel was a mirror of what I've already described, just in the opposite direction. Not much time for sightseeing. It was however a watershed moment for the band. In the 5 years of touring Europe, we have never played in France! We've been through France a bunch, one time we almost got in a street fight in Calais, but have never had the opportunity to perform to the culturally attuned citizenry. It was a special night. We played well but the reaction was a bit mixed I have to say. There was a lot of older people there and I have a feeling that we might have been a little too loud and aggressive for their tastes. The kids however loved it. They were going for it man. One thing that I have noticed on this tour is that even though our average age is around 30, the younger people are getting into our sound. It's great! I've spoken to a lot of grateful and enthusiastic new fans that are all around 18 on this trip.
Speaking of young, enthusiastic fans, our next stop was Karlsruhe in Germany. Home of one of our most loyal supporters, Shelly Harel. We've played in Karsruhe 3 times now and each time has been a pleasure. In fact, the first time we played Karlsruhe the response was such that it confirmed for us that we could really have a go at this Europe thing. If you are touring and have no name you need a few places to get behind you to give you the confidence to go on. If it wasn't for cities like Karlsruhe there is every chance that we would have stopped touring which would have also meant the demise of the band. So, thankyou Karlsruhe and every other place like you that comes out and supports live music. We wouldn't exist without you.
I guess after that it should go without saying that the gig was great, well.... it fuckin' rocked!!!
The crowd was mental and we busted our asses in response. It was a packed house and everyone was dancing. Ignore the stereotype that Germans don't like to party or are really stiff and all that. These guys were going off. After the show we felt like rockstars with loads of people asking for photos and signatures and all that. Let me repeat, THANKYOU KARLSRUHE!!!
The next port of call was Budapest. If you get out a map you'll see it's quite a ways away from Karslruhe so we had to break up the journey by stopping in Vienna. As a fan of history and geography it's really cool seeing both of these cities in quick succession. The former seats of power of the Austro-Hungarian empire split by the iron curtain for most of the 20th century. Now freed of it's socialist chains, Budapest has a bit of catching up to do to match it's spotless sister city. These places were built on the same wealth and you can see the grandeur this bought in the architecture. The interesting thing is to see what the postwar years bought to the different cities. One, gorged itself on the capitalist teat while the other followed the bleak, Stalinist line. I shouldn't over simplify the complex histories of these countries so maybe research it up if you have the inclination. Very interesting stuff.
Budapest is the home of the famous Sziget festival. One of the biggest in Europe. We have been very fortunate to have played Sziget twice now, the first time on the main stage with The Prodigy and Dizzee Rascal! This year we played a smaller stage but had no less fun. The festival is ridiculously massive. It's set on an island in the middle of the Danube river, seperating the two halves of the city, Buda and Pest. During the festival it is said that Sziget almost becomes a mini country with an economy all of it's own. It's not hard to see how strolling around the place. Anything you could imagine wanting or needing at a festival is available there. The bands are only a part of the whole experience and they cater for every taste. We played on the Afro-Latino Reggae stage, not to be confused with the World Music stage, quite different though than the Tribute Band stage. I was pleasantly surprised and amused that they had that particular stage. They even had a Faith No More tribute band playing that would have pleased members of another of my old bands, Pills For Breakfast (we were a FNM tribute band too).
The coolest thing that happened was just before we left Budapest we got a gift. An extremely talented young woman, Reka Timea Vatai, gave us a (I hope I got this right) cyanograph of the band. What it is is a piece of fabric, or many pieces in this case, that has photographic images printed on to it through some process that I'm unaware of. They come out in a kinda ghostly blue shade and take on the texture of the material. It's beautiful and would have taken a lot of time. I'd like to thank Reka again for the hard work and effort she must have put in to make it. We are extremely flattered to have received such a wonderful present.
After Budapest we had to return to Germany via a show in Austria. We played in the small town of Weiselberg, the home of a beer I quite often buy in NZ I was pleased to find out. It was raining so we didn't see much of the place but I did finally find a post office to send the million postcards I had been collecting. The show was meant to be outside but because of the weather they moved the whole thing indoors. It worked out just as well and the gig was a real treat. Two other bands played before us and they were really cool. Django 3000 was a rockabilly, gypsy, punk affair and the Pull Up Orchestra a very tight brass band incorporating tons of hip hop samples arranged for horns. Again, a great crowd who had been warmed up expertly by the other 2 bands. I thought to myself at the time, what a cool little festival to be a punter at. Really good mix of music they got to hear, and all really showy, party bands.
The final gig in this stretch was in Bad Windsheim, Germany. I think the town is meant to be like one of those mineral spa type places but we never actually saw the place. The show was situated at the top of a hill in the country and for the first time Europe didn't look polluted. I know that NZ is not as clean and green as we advertise it to be but at least we have proper clouds. Like white ones that are puffy. I reckon the sky in Europe is really different than back home and I also reckon it's coz the air is all full of shit. The amount of planes whizzing about overhead, the big cities and factories everywhere must have had an effect and I believe it's visible. I wonder if Europeans (or Asians, Americans, etc. etc.) come to NZ and remark about the sky, “Wow, look how blue it is and they have clouds like what little kids draw”. We do and let's keep it that way huh guys? We should use the European model of making our cities friendly to bikes and pedestrians instead of the American model of endless suburbia and roads for cars only. I will do a separate Auckland rant on another blog. Auckland deserves to be slammed on its own with no distractions.
Anyway, Bad Windsheim had proper clouds, a proper sky, an awesome crowd, an awesome crew and we had a brilliant time. I felt a bit under the weather before we started but the audience picked me up instantly. It's amazing the healing power of adrenaline. Sometimes we're sooooo tired, or actually sick, and yet you can always seem to pull it out for the gig. It's like magic.
Well, that's it for now. Berlin and 4 more shows await us. I'll probably write the next blog in my second home of Croatia. Gonna have a week off to unwind in the sun before normal life resumes. Hope you all get a chance to have a little relax in the sun wherever you are reading this too.