Day 36-37: Mumbai – Madgao – Benaulim Overnight 12 h train journey to Goa. Sleeper class train. Three tiers of plain bunks on the each side of the berth. Six people, in theory. In practice, dozens more. No doors, no bedding, no privacy, basic toilet (hole in the floor). Could I get the cleaner train with 4 bed bunks and AC. I could. But what is the point then? It is the journey and experience that matters in this case, not just transfer from point A to point B. Like all the other passengers I locked my luggage with chains and padlocks. As we all got comfortable in our bunks, fellow passenger asks me: - Do you have some food? - Yeah sure. Are you hungry? - No man. As soon as we fall asleep rats will come out looking for food in our luggage. You better take the food out of your backpack and put it somewhere high. - Serious? - Serious. I took the snacks out and hanged them up on the upper bed bunk. But I could not fall asleep before I see the nomadic Indian train rats. So from my upper bunk every now and then I would look at the floor. Indeed, shortly after we were all lying in our bunks, rats started to move around. After spotting first one my heart was at peace and I could fall asleep.