How to measure for a road bike.
This gets personal. Damn intimate actually.
The main thing is to get the correct frame size. There are several rules of thumb and well the first thing is to measure your legs.
The basic dimension is your true inseam. That is not your pants inseam!
It is the distance from the bottom of your bare feet to the place where your legs come together. Bike shops may have a thing like an adjustable saw horse that you straddle. At home it takes something like a hardcover book a wall and a tape measure.
The basic home procedure is to stand against the wall with bare feet flat on the floor. You take the book sliding against the wall to keep it square to the floor and push it firmly into your crotch. There are bones in there in case you did not know. The distance from the binding edge to the floor is your true inseam.
If you have a very good friend they can help with this, but it can be done solo.
The size of a bike frame is based on your legs with very much else being adjustable. Bikes are usually sized in centimeters.
There are three general methods for bike frames. One is to take your overall height and divide by three. That does not work for me. Another is to take your inseam and multiply by 0.667. The third is to subtract 27 cm from your inseam. Either of those two give me a reasonable value as the mechanics of pedaling is all about the legs.
Once you identify the frame size it gets easier if the brand sizes them in cm like 54cm 56 cm, 58 cm etc. With small medium and large you need to look at tables. The size in cm is usually the vertical distance from the center of the crank bearing (called the bottom bracket) to the highest part of the top tube. The other is called the seat tube length which can be deceiving when the top tube of the bike slopes from front to back.
A good number to check is the “Stand over height.” It should be less than your inseam so you can comfortably stand with the bike between your legs.
My Specialized Tarmac is a size 58. I was looking at a GIANT road bike and the equivalent size is “Large”.
The other bits to size are the seat height which is easy to adjust, the reach to the handlebar which is adjustable by swapping out pieces and the front to back location of the seat which is easy to move, but tricky to find the exact right place.
The seat adjusted to the correct height by several ways. Based on an average observed in professional cyclists 20 years ago, take your inseam and multiply by 0.886. Alternately multiply your inseam by 1.09 and subtract the length of the bike crank. This distance is from the center of the crank axis to the top of the seat. A brute force quick method is to sit a bit forward on the seat and put your heel (in a shoe) on the pedal. Straight down and straight leg it should just touch. Do both sides as most people have a slight difference in the length of their legs.
Get the seat height right as is it critical to long term comfort and injury avoidance.
If you buy from a shop they will do this for you. Oh by shop I mean a real bike shop, not a general sporting goods store. It is good to know how this works so you can avoid having a shop clear stock at your expense. You can also explore the classified ads with some degree of confidence. The wrong size bike is the wrong size even if it is a good deal.