#bikexit

[bikexit]

Tirana

A relatively modern capital with a checkered past, maybe not beautiful by western ideals and still only has running water for a few hours a day, but since the mayor, Edi Rama, painted the city different pastel shades, it is colourful in all senses of the word and has a raw energy and vibrancy that gets under your skin, making it a hard place to forget.

[bikexit]

Istanbul

Istanbul is a city of contradiction. Brutalist concrete high rise is juxtaposed against ancient Ottoman architecture, raki is sold in shops streets away from the Blue Mosque, modern high streets with exclusive western brands are flanked by armoured trucks with water cannons, high speed internet is beamed to modern smart phones only to be selectively censored, speakers blast the call to prayer during the daylight hours and pulsing techno music long after dark.

It’s jarring and takes a while to get your head around, East say hello to West, you don’t know each other, but remember Abraham, you both knew him at some point. Though like the strait that divides the city, the different cultures are yet to really combine, like oil and water, when it works you get the odd glint of a rainbow of colour that would be otherwise unseen.

Still it is fascinating and utterly intoxicating. I have been suffering from withdrawal ever since I left.

[bikexit]

more Istanbul

[bikexit]

Turkish border

Fully adapted to the Greek way of life, we arrived at the Turkish border way behind schedule. As we approached it was already getting dark, we hadn’t bothered with trite formalities like getting a visa or even thought about carrying money to pay for one and had no idea where we would be sleeping that night, what could go wrong?

After being rapidly rebuffed by the customs official at the gate we were directed towards the foyer of the adjacent building, stepping inside we entered a room full of men all holding aloft papers and pushing towards a small window offering the odd glimpse of a lone officer sitting at a desk surrounded by ring binders. After waiting at the back for what seemed like forever, we eventually gave in to join the scrum, sliding slowly towards the front and finally appearing at the window to request a visa, only to be told that we could only pay for it in US dollars. From England, trying to get into Turkey, in Europe, but of course, US dollars, total sense. After arguing for a while another official came out who spoke great English and allowed us to use his office. So after filling in the online visa form on my phone and paying online we printed out two pieces of paper allowing us to enter Turkey!

We cycled off into the cold night, past multiple pairs of guards framed by big dogs and automatic weapons, the hard shoulder of the large modern dual carriageway only lit by our small bike lights, white spot to the front, flashing red to the rear.

[bikexit]

A night spent at an abandoned thermal spa resort turned hippie commune. Hidden paradise in the woods.

[bikexit]

Greek generosity

After hearing stories from other cyclists about the generosity of strangers on the road, I was a little disappointed to not have any of my own, that was until I arrived in Greece. Everywhere I went shop owners would stop me from paying, tabs were picked up in restaurants and families took me in to their homes and plied me with brandy and food. These are just a few of those wonderful people. Thank you so much, you made my time in Greece truly special!

[bikexit]

Greece - Thessaloniki, the coast and dogs, lots of dogs.

While there are undoubtedly some winners from the EU project, Greece has not fared so well, currently suffering a lingering hangover from the Euro party. As is so often the case with capitalism, those at the top of society, who were drinking the Ouzo, are not the ones dealing with the headache or clearing up the mess. Although down, Greece is definitely not out and you get the sense the tide may be starting to turn. I hope so.

[bikexit]

Macedonia - Lake Ohrid

I didn’t spend enough time in Macedonia to get to know much about the country, apart from a few nights in Ohrid next to the lake of the same name, which puts on quite a show come sundown.