Evening Wear: It's Black and White
When I was asking what to write next, the clear favourite answer was a guide to black tie. Or, as they say in the colonies, "tuxedo". This example, from No Man Walks Alone, has huge batwing lapels to frighten Professor Pingson (I really must stop talking about him), but it's basically perfect:
And we all want to be perfect, don't we?
Here are some top tips:
1. Stick to black and white. Or if you must, a cream-coloured jacket
2. Dinner jackets have peaked lapels. A single-breasted black dinner jacket may have a shawl collar. (Or midnight blue, but you're on the edge now).
3. Fold down collar with marcella front, or pleated front. Wing collar works for some.
4. Studs, not buttons. And cufflinks.
5. Unless you are wearing a double breasted jacket: black cummerbund or waistcoat, that matches the facing of your lapels, and your tie.
6. Which is preferably grosgrain or alternatively satin, always silk. Unless you are wearing the cream jacket, in which case the lapels are the same as the rest of the jacket, and the accessories just match each other.
7. Black, un-cuffed straight trousers, no back pocket, cut high for braces with buttons not loops, and a stripe on the seam that matches the tie etc.
8. The bow tie is black, you tie it yourself, and it should preferably be sized - essential for a wing collar.
9. A simple white pocket square or buttonhole is dandy enough. Nothing at all is also enough.
10. Wear proper shoes. Good leather, or patent if you don't like polishing, must be an oxford not a derby (or a dress pump if you dare), and plain or cap toe - no brogueing.
11. Black socks, plain, long, preferably silk.
12. Don't forget your undershirt, tonight of all nights.
13. Braces (suspenders), never a belt. They will never, ever be seen by anyone but you. If you have to have a novelty item, this is it, as it should always be invisible.
14. Because you never remove your dinner jacket. If it's single-breasted, you may unfasten the button while seated.
15. But not the tie. Ever. At any time. Despite what you've seen James Bond do. He also still looks good after heavy drinking. You don't.
That, in a nutshell, is what it's all about. There are variations, rules you can break and all kinds of details that you could fuss over, but if you stay within these rules you almost certainly won't look stupid. Even if you are, a little bit. Which you're not, or you wouldn't have read this far.
A very good resource on this subject is here. In the mean time, for those who live by such things, here's a diagram to make it easier. As you can see, it's perfectly simple...
Have fun at the opera.
- "M"