Hobby streak day 32 (yes I've managed to little bits to many models for 32 days in a row. New peronal best!) Veteran captain pretty much done, final details on the weathering then finished. Basic idea is that he's recently fought and taken heavy bamage to the other plates of this right side so returned to the Forward Base for replacements. In reality I made a mistake on the hand and legs/arms but couldn't be bothered to wash those pieces separately so kept them white. C&C welcome!
Go With the Flow: Modeling Liquid in Motion, the Miniatures of Tomorrow Way!
Hey there true believers, here I am with another Tutorial in my never ending series to help you become a better miniaturist!
Today, I’ve got a real treat for you. I’ve been working on this technique for a few months now, and have finally mastered it. It’s one of the effects I’m asked about more than any other. I’m talking about capturing liquid in motion.
Most of the time, when you see blood in miniature, it’s thin tendrils of UHU Glue, painted over with a transparent red paint. While the effect can be neat, I wanted something with both a higher degree of verisimilitude, and capable of withstanding tabletop caliber handling.
After an inordinate amount of trial an error, I’ve created an incredibly cheap effect that is more durable than the miniature itself ( it’s pretty much completely flexible), and can be used to create any liquid shape you’d like. The only limit being the depths of your imagination.
Lets start with the materials you’ll need, after the jump.
SUPPLIES REQUIRED
1) Blister Packaging Plastic
2) Super Glue (Thick)
3) Cutting Implement
4) High Gloss Mod Podge
5) Paint for Coloring the “Liquid”
It’s really that short of a list. Most of you will only have to procure the Mod Podge, some of you already have all of this in your hobby spaces.
INSTRUCTIONS
The first thing we’re going to want to do is cut the blister plastic into a rough “skeleton” of the shape we’re going to want the liquid to take. Don’t worry about any sharp/squared edges, as we’re going to take care of those in the next steps, but take care to make it slightly smaller than we’re going to want the effect to be eventually.
(Some Freshly Cut Drips of Blood)
After we’ve got our skeletons cut to size, we’re going to glue them in position. You want to be mindful of the direction they’re lying, in relation to the motion you’re attempting to capture and gravity. The rest of the effect rests on the skeleton, and once it’s glued into place, it’s final.
For this, I recommend a thick super glue and accelerant. The thick super glue is nice, because you can dab it on with precision and it won’t run all over the place. I recommend the accelerant, because the surface tension of the wet glue is often enough to pull the tiny plastic skeletons out of position. Locking the plastic skeleton in place immediately totally circumvents this issue, and a lot of swearing, in my experience.
(Plastic Skeleton, Glued into Position)
Once we’ve gotten the skeleton locked in, it’s time to coat it in a thick layer of Mod Podge. Mod Podge is wonderful stuff for this purpose. It doesn’t shrink when it dries, so you can “sculpt” shapes on top of the skeleton that stay how you formed them. You use this to round off all the squared edges, and build up drops and splashes. Sometimes it takes a couple of layers to really create a good splashing effect, but you’ll be surprised how easy it is to work with after a little experience.
(The Skeleton, Coated in Fresh Mod Podge)
Take care to build liquid shapes, with drops forming at the ends of shapes, and smooth liquid gradients. Whatever shape you leave while it cures is the shape you come back to. make sure to paint on both sides, so that you create organic shapes. I like to build up a layer around the point the skeleton is glued to the miniature. This both reinforces the connection point when dried, and covers up any rough areas from the point when the two parts are glued together.
The Mod Podge is opaque when wet, but dries crystal clear. What’s more is that the rounded edges warp the light around the plastic interior, rendering it completely invisible. At this point, it’s quite elastic, and can be handled without distorting. It’s a simple matter of painting it to emulate whatever liquid you’d like.
I’ve used it for blood, sewage, pus, beer, icicles, fountains, etc. Really, you’re only limited by your imagination. Just seal it when done with a high gloss sealant, and you’re already done!
(The Finished Effect)
That’s it for the instruction. It’s really that simple. You’ll be creating amazing effects on your own pieces in no time! Below are some of the results I’ve gotten with the technique. I hope you folks enjoy!
(Beer: Step by Step)
(Blood: Step by Step)
(Icicles, Blood, Blood and Saliva, More Blood. All the same Technique)
I hope you folks found this tutorial useful. This was a result of a bunch of experimentation, that I hope I’ve saved you. Feel free to share this tutorial far and wide. You can follow me on Facebook and Twitter @minisoftomorrow, or check out my blog at www.miniaturesoftomorrow.com
I’m always interested in professional and collaborative opportunities. Including studio contract and freelance work. I’d love to see what you come up with using the effect as well! All inquiries and examples should go to [email protected]
Keep your bristles damp!
Will
The rig is an air hose attached to the back of his neck with a hair band with a hole drilled in it. The hose runs to a CO2 tire inflator in his pocket. Fill the tube with blood, he hits the trigger on the inflator, and BLAM!
