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Bogolan, also known as "mudcloth", is cotton Malian cloth dyed and patterned with fermented earth based dyes. It is created by the Bambara people of Mali, who make up 40% of the total population.
Bogolanfini adds a sahelcore flair to any outfit in the form of headwraps, scarves, skirts, pants or boubou (kaftan).
It may be the most emblematic Sahelian textile apart from indigo tie-dye.
A town called San is the epicenter of bogolanfini production and source of the highest quality bogolan textile.
The dyeing process has been described as "cumbersome and tedious". First, cotton strips woven by the men are then dyed by the women (who undergo year-long apprenticeships)-- but first, the fresh cloth is soaked in a sort of tea made from ngallama leaves turning it yellow. After this, it is sundried, and then patterns are repeatedly hand painted with dyes made from iron-rich riverbed clays that have been fermented in jars for up to a year. The iron in the dye turns the painted areas a very dark brown thanks to the chemical reaction between the treated cotton and the dye.
The yellow parts are bleached with soaps and then the cloth is washed, leaving behind the distinctive black and white pattern that overtime may fade to varying shades of brown.
Other methods of producing bogolanfini exist in other parts of Mali, of varying degrees of quality.
Bogolanfini entered the fashion industry via designer Chris Seydou, who brought the enigmatic traditional textile into the mainstream.
Bogolanfini was traditionally worn by hunters as camouflage, and by women after giving birth, as it was believed that the bogolanfini could control the mysterious forces released postpartum.
Mudcloth - Bògòlanfini (2021)
Mudcloth is seen traditionaly in west African textile patterns, dyed onto cotton sheets using fermented mud. I used only glass that would reflect SOME of the amazing colours possible by this method. The original pattern I created with inspiration drawn from different aspects my ancestry
Printed African Fabrics
Made in Kenya | Visuals for Ichyulu, an online African Fashion Concept Store
Photography by Brian Siambi, Creative Direction & Styling by Eve Mungwe, Modelling by Lizzy Nyajuok and Make Up by Sally Shadeya
Mudcloth Dashes and Zig Zag Stripes Crop Top Tee
how to make mud cloth
🌀〽️🔅♒️ The many patterns we see on bogolan #mudcloth vary in meaning depending on the region or even down to community the cloth is made. So this makes defining symbols difficult. However there are many symbols used frequently for cloth sold in the global market. Learn more about African #MudCloth. #LINKINBIO #mudcloth #bogolan #mali #artisan #artist #africanart #handpainted #haintpaintedpurse #trusttheprocess https://www.instagram.com/p/B-nltp6pwVy/?igshid=z1gmhfpn8p4i