Amritsar, a pilgrimage city for Sikhs in Punjab, had a lot more to offer than just a quick whiz around yet another temple. The Golden temple is the holiest temple in the world for Sikhs and home to the largest community kitchen in the world. Serving up to 100,000 people per day we were able to try langar (a free meal offered by the temple) as dinner. It was a privilege to watch the dedicated volunteers cook food in gigantic pots and clean dishes in an assembly line set up. By far the most efficient operation we've seen in our trip! Staying at the Jugavdus' hostel, highly recommended, we joined in a free yoga session on the roof and were delighted to be invited to attend a Punjabi wedding. With over 1,000 guests it didn't disappoint. A ridiculous breakfast banquet followed 3 hours later by an extensive lunch spread gave us ample opportunity to over indulge not forgetting the various platters continually circulating the tables. Dancers performing and music playing accompanied the men knocking back whiskey and beers whilst the Indian women watched on. Only downside being the inevitable sexual inequality! The Wagah, Indian and Pakistan, border closing ceremony was an amusing but worthwhile experience. Done with fascinating pomp and ceremony that involves lots of tall soldiers in massive turbans goose-stepping about and slamming gates. Watching Indian women run up and down with flags and dance in the streets was probably the most liberating and entertaining part of it all. A city full of culinary delights, heart warming hospitality and cultural stimulation was a great end to our north Indian trip.