#brokeandbespoke

[brokeandbespoke]

Vintage Brooks Brothers sport coat, faded Luxire denim shirt, Red Cotton Denim jeans, and Beckett & Robb tie.

[34rhinos]

Not sure if this is the appropriate forum for bathroom selfies, but I look hella today. 👌🆗🆒 #bathroomselfie #notterriblyproudofit #butilookgood #suit #brokeandbespoke

[abitofcolor]

Prawns and Sauvignon Blanc at Jacks Oyster House with #brokeandbespoke (at Jack's Oyster Bar & Fish House)

[patina-of-life-blog]

Rain, Snow, and the Economics of Vintage Shoes

Not having to deal with rain and snow is one of the benefits of living in Southern California. However, I travel on business to places where the weather is not as pleasant. The good news is my exposure is limited to walking from the hotel to the convention center, crossing the street, or navigating an open parking lot. The bad news is salt, water, mud, and gravel can take their toll on your shoes. So I had to decide – to rubber up or not?

As a young man, I was stationed at the submarine base in Groton Connecticut. Galoshes were a standard issue item and a godsend. Based on that experience I would recommend a pair of SWIMS from Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project, Allen Edmonds, or Brooks Brothers to anyone facing rain and snow regularly.

Yet, I elected a different approach and here is the logic and economics behind that decision. If I had a pair of galoshes, this would be my routine when I speak at the NFMT Show in Baltimore for example. First, I would have to remember to pack them. On the day of the event, I would walk from the hotel to convention center. Walk through the convention center. Stop at the men’s restroom to remove the galoshes, wipe them down, fold them up, put them in a bag, and then wash the mud and dirt from my hands. From there I would go to the speaker ready room, check in, and store my trench coat and galoshes. This routine is too complicated for something that might happen once or twice a year.

The Plan

My solution was to find shoes that I could wear in these circumstances. After reviewing the shoes and boots in my closet, the noticeable absence of a pair of wingtips set a plan in motion. Do you remember how you felt the first time someone stepped on the toe of your shiny new shoes? It is a terrible feeling. Taking a cue from Jason Chang (Broke and Bespoke) and Matthew Ruiz (LuxeSwap) I decided to go vintage/thrift. Going vintage seemed natural since I bought many of my shoes and boots 20 to 30 years ago.

Turning to Luxeswap on eBay, I zeroed in on a pair of Crockett & Jones oxfords. I did not win the auction. Then I found a pair of oxblood wingtips – Brooks Brothers English Made – $39.99 “Buy it Now” and Free Shipping. Yes, they needed new heels – but I had other plans for these beauties. A week later, they were in my hands. They were a little rough, nothing some TLC with my box Saphir shoe care products could not fix.

Photos from eBay Listing (before):

Time and wear has created a patina to be cherished - the color of aged port. Notice how the upper brogue detail wraps around the shoe, adding visual length to the shoe. While the shoes were in good condition, the heels needed replacing. 

As I cleaned these shoes, I realized that replacing the leather soles with Dainite soles and heels would not be enough. The styling of these shoes was too refined. While spot-on for the “City” in London or “Wall Street” in New York, they needed something. A 360 degree Goodyear welt was it. I called Nick Valenti at B. Nelson Shoe Repair in New York City and discussed my plan and alternatives. A few days later, USPS delivered them to B. Nelson. I was at a conference in Cleveland, when Nick called me. We reviewed the proposed work, and confirmed the pricing $230. Fourteen days later, I picked them up at my nearby FedEx Office.

Tip – if you travel, take advantage of this service offered by FedEx Office. It beats having your packages left at your front door.

The wisdom of this decision was confirmed when I opened the box. While I cleaned the shoes before sending them off, B. Nelson treated them with Saphir Renovateur Cream. The results were much better than expected. I now have a solid foundation for multiple layers of Saphir crème polish and paste wax to protect them and produce a deep luster worthy of well-made English shoes. Look for a future post on detailing these great shoes.

After Recrafting by B. Nelson Shoe Repair, New York, NY:

 A 360 degree Goodyear welt, Dainite soles and heels

Preserve and protect your investment with quality shoe care products and cedar shoe trees

A handsome shoe, the 360 degree welt and Dainite sole were a good choice. Looking forward to Shoeshine Sunday. Would a parade dress shine be overkill?

The Economics of Vintage

Some people think I am crazy to spend $230 to put Dainite soles and heels on a pair of 40+ year old shoes. (Note, B. Nelson’s standard sole and heel recraft is $115; and includes shipping both ways.) So, let us review the economics. We can exclude the $50 I paid to convert to a 360 degree Goodyear welt since that was a personal style decision. I mention this because one can see in the photos the welt was changed. The cost of buying the shoes on eBay was $39.99 with free shipping. My net investment was $220.

According to Sevan Minasian of Classicshoesformen.com, Edward Green made these shoes for Brooks Brother in the 1970s. Today a pair of new Edward Green wingtips costs $1,315. At Brooks Brothers, a pair of Peal & Co English made wingtips will ring up at $648. American made Alden or Allen Edmonds price out at $526 and $385 respectively. Over at Classicshoesformen.com a pair of these Brooks Brothers - Edward Green wingtips in black calf was listed at €440 or $489 (1st class condition). In California, the sales tax adds from $30 to $105.

Going the vintage - recrafting route saved me from $196 to $1,200 depending on the shoes used for comparison. What's more, I avoid that sick feeling in my stomach the first time I step into a puddle.

Three Takeaways:

Buying well-made vintage shoes can make economic sense. It can add variety and depth to your wardrobe and extends your budget so you afford to buy those new Alden, Allen Edmonds, Carmina, Church’s, Crockett and Jones, Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, Lucchese, Alfred Sargent, or Saint Crispin’s.

Whether you buy new or vintage, the proper care and storage of your shoes and boots will turn them into a long-term asset. Using cedar shoetrees, quality shoe care products, and replacing the soles and heels when needed is money well spent.

If you do not live in place where you can be sunburned in January, investing in a good pair of SWIMS galoshes is a smart move.

[jakeindy]

Jacket: Corneliani for PRL, thrifted $17 Tie: Brooks Brothers, thrifted $2 Pocket Square: Ashear, thrifted $3

@brokeandbespoke

[brokeandbespoke]

Brief hiatus...

Hi folks:

My computer is currently having some work done on it, and until I get it back posts may be infrequent, sporadic, and photos (if there are any) may be coming from my phone rather than my regular camera. I'll be back and posting regularly again soon though, I promise. 

Jason

[brokeandbespoke]

Newest member of the family, Clio.

[whentowear]

Year End Wrap Up

The week of christmas has become the unofficial time to put together a list of the best things that have happened over the course of the year. Who are we to fight it? In the spirit of the Year End Wrap Up here are our three favorite sites of this past year. (In no particular order) The Pantalones- The site is run by the 20 something design student Alex Delany, whose popularity has grown immensely this past year. Alex is something of an icon to those interested in investing in quality, tailored pieces but are living off a student budget. Often asked for his opinion on jackets, shoes, beer and cigars; Alex answers with wit and sincerity not often found on the internet. Men's Style Pro- Sabir Peele is the well dressed man behind the Men's Style Pro brand. Peele was really thrust into the menswear spotlight when he was one of Esquire's " 5 Best Dressed Real Men In America". He is also frequently featured on tsbmen.com as the man able to put together a Pitti worthy outfit on a seriously small budget. Broke and Bespoke- Jason Chang of Broke and Bespoke is a god among thrifters. With an eye for detail, the outfits Chang puts together for his frequent "WIWT" posts showcases the amazing pieces he has thrifted for a fraction of the retail price. On his site you'll find pictures of thrifted Allen Edmonds, Brioni, Gant and RL Jackets, and a plethora of ties from the most obscure Italian brands to American staples. The Pantalones- www.mypantalones.tumblr.com Men's Style Pro- www.mensstylepro.com Broke and Bespoke- www.brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com