Traynor YBA-1 Cap Replacement
Here's a list of what is required for a cap job on a late 60's Traynor YBA-1 (not to be confused with the YBA-1A!). Prices will be updated soon.
2x Dual 40@450V (Can) - or -
4x 47@500V (Axial) - or -
Should you go with Can caps or modern discreet axials? Good question. Really, it's up to you. The can caps are more expensive, but can be more cleanly mounted. They are a little harder to install, and therefore harder to work with, but they will stay put forever, as they are soldered to the chassis, AND clamped.
can caps have several caps in one case
Axial caps are cheaper and lighter, and just as good electronically. They only downside is that they take up extra space inside the chassis and need to be tethered down with cableties or clamps. This is actually less work than changing a can cap, so it's more common to do this type of replacement. The real question is, how much of a purist are you?
Axial caps are much smaller and cheaper
Screen grid resistors of 470 to 1K @ 5W should be installed (2 required) if they have not been already as most of the early YBA-1's shipped without them.
Mid-70's "pop-top" style YBA-1.
These are easier to work on, as all the guts of the amp can be accessed by removing the 4 bolts and pulling off the top! Why aren't all amps made this way?
