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Clarinet help?!
So theres something wrong with my clarinet. I think a pad is sticking somewhere and when it does it wont let me go above a high G. It has been really frustrating and my director cant figure out whats wrong with it, and if it is a pad sticking, I cannot find it. Should I send it in somewhere and get it checked? Or what?
i think i'm going crazy
I have to play major scales on tuesday; and on the scale sheet my band director gave us it has an E sharp. In treble clef. That doesn't make sense, right?! As a Bb instrument, I should not be able to play an E sharp. Without doing something weird.... I mean there's no fingering for an E sharp, right? Someone please tell me that I'm not wrong. Or please explain to me why I'm wrong.
Please?
CLARINETS HAVE PARTIALS??!!
Me and my best friend discovered today that the fingering for the E above the staff, and an alternate fingering the second A above the staff are the same!!! WOAH!! idk why but that kind of blows my mind.
By the way, does anyone know how to describe the notes I am talking about in a more intelligent way...like what register they are in maybe? This makes me feel music illiterate..
Which clarinet accessories would you use or recommend?
Rovner Dark
Ligature and Cap
$29.99
Rovner Ligatures will make any reed play better, in addition to improving your sound and ease of play! More rigid ligatures actually hammer the cane fibers during vibration, eventually destroying the reed's tonal vibrancy.
Pasted from <http://www.clarinet-repairs.com/supplies.html>
Vandoren Klassic
Ligature and Cap
$79.95
Vandoren's new Klassik woven ligature perfectly fits the shape of the reed and the mouthpiece and takes part in the vibration of the reed. There are two independent running knots that allow for a quick, personalized tightening, offering a great scope of tone colors.
Pasted from <http://www.clarinet-repairs.com/supplies.html>
Reed Working Glass
$2.99
The perfect size glass for balancing and adjusting clarinet reeds!
Pasted from <http://www.clarinet-repairs.com/supplies.html>
Reed Resurfacer
$14.99
*Make your reeds last longer by restoring a flat back to old, warped reeds!
*Also great for stubborn, hard reeds!
*2 sides - coarse and fine.
*Compare to Vandoren Reed Resurfacer at $51.50!
Pasted from <http://www.clarinet-repairs.com/supplies.html>
How do you guys feel about pad savers?
I use them in my old beginner clarinet but I haven't bought any for my new clarinet because I have heard mixed reviews..
How to clean you clarinet according to wikihow.com
Remove the reed after playing and store it in a reed holder to dry. Put the rest of the clarinet in a safe place that is not too hot or to cold. Don't stand it on end, unless you have a clarinet stand (it holds your clarinet upright, and can usually be folded and stored in the bell), since it can fall over.
Use your polishing cloth to wipe fingerprints off the ligature and keywork. Then, carefully place the cloth back in your case. Don't use any kind of metal polish (unless the clarinet is all metal, ie: silver) or other substance on your instrument, except for key oil. Key oil makes the keys move more easily.
Use your swab (made of silk, nothing else, other materials can damage the insides) and drop the cloth's weight and string through the clarinet from the bell to the mouthpiece and pull it through. You may have to do this several times. Take the pieces apart and dry the tenons (these are the places where the joints of the horn fit together.) Then, let the swab dry before putting it in the case, otherwise your keys will be discolored.
Get out some cork grease. Grease the corks by rubbing cork grease onthem with your fingers. Cork grease comes in many different forms, but the most common looks like lip balm. However, lip balm is not an appropriate substitute for cork grease, and cork grease can be poisonous if ingested, so do not confuse the two. You don't need to do this EACH time you take your clarinet apart, or even very often, as too much cork grease will weaken the corks and make them prone to breaking apart. Just examine your corks regularly and apply cork grease as needed depending upon the dryness or wear in the cork. You may need to grease them more often in the dry winter months. If the instrument is difficult to put together or take apart put cork grease on the corks.
Take out your cleaning cloth and polish the keys to remove fingerprints and grime. Then you may, if necessary, take out your dusting stick. Dusting sticks are long, twisted, thin, wire, with a small, broom-like thing at one end, and a little thing that looks like a tooth cleaner at the other end. Gently clean between and under the keys with the mouthpiece-brush end, and brush the dust off with the broom end. Pay close attention to the tone holes that your fingers cover as they often collect gunk and grime from your fingers. You may wish to polish the instrument again after doing this. This would also be a good time to oil the keys, if necessary.
You should also make sure to swab the insides of the clarinets joints, with or without cork, to get rid of the excess saliva there.
Periodically use a q-tip and wipe it around the inside and outside of the mouthpiece to remove the gunk that will collect.
Place the mouthpiece cap over the mouthpiece, then store the clarinet in its case. Put the case in a safe place.
clarinetpages.net (WHY OIL YOUR CLARINET?)
Oiling Wood The grenadilla wood that is used for making clarinets really will not absorb bore oil. Many experts feel that oiling a wooden clarinet is totally useless. It hasn't been proven that oiling will reduce the likelihood of the instrument cracking. However, I still oil the instruments I recondition. I take off the keys and oil the outside and inside of the instrument, including inside all the tone holes. I always oil the bore at least twice. The reason I do this is:
To improve the appearance of the wood.
To make it so that most of the saliva that collects in the instrument will quickly run out the end of the instrument.
Saliva will leave behind some deposits. If you have a clarinet that always seems to “spring a leak” out of the C#/G# key (or somewhere else) then there is probably a trail of deposits that leads directly to that hole. Oiling the bore can clean away the deposits and allow moisture to make a new path down to the bellof the instrument. So, bottom line, oiling the bore is a good idea. Oil the outside if the wood begins to appear dull and dry. You don't need to take the keys off to do this as you will only really need to oil the surfaces that show. What oil should I use to care for my wooden clarinet? Any bore oil sold by your music store will be fine. The bore oil sold by Doctor's Products is excellent (see Links). In the hobby section of your local discount store, you can probably find purified linseed oil. (See caution in next paragraph.)This is nearly odorless, but can cause an allergic reaction if you get it on your lips. I have been happy with that in the past. Do not use petroleum based oils. I personally use apricot oil from Pakistan. The reason is simply that my daughter and son-in-law work there. They bought a recorder there for me, and the maker recommended using this oil. I have found that it has nice qualities: It is not as heavy as the purified linseed oil and soaks in better. And it smells delicious while I am putting it on. Do NOT use linseed oil that is thick and smelly, or the kind that is used for finishing furniture! This will ruin your instrument! You can find some good discussion on bore oil at the ChiffandFipple Flute message board. (This is a message board about Irish flutes, many of which are made of wood.)
Some Clarinet Websites...
I haven't checked these out in depth yet, but I will be soon.
clarinetcompainion.com (looks mediocre)
margaretthornhill.com (pretty good)
clarinetcache.com
firstclarinet.blogspot.com
http://www.clarinet.org/index.asp
http://www.clarinetcloset.com/choosingaclarinet.html (more for beginners)
