The view from Mount Scafi - Condofuri, Calabria, Italy
The importance of the goat in the Greek Calabrian mountains of Aspromonte
Overlooking the sunrise and the charms of the Southern Ionian coast of Calabria, the vast area of Bovesìa represents an ethno-cultural basin of ancient origins.
The presence of the Greek-Oriental communities that arrived on these shores was able to survive the Latinisation ordered by the Normans from the 11th century onwards, rigorously preserving the language of its origins, today known as the Greek dialect of Calabria, its traditions, music and food, establishing a true koinè.
Walking into the town of Gallicianò is like landing out-of-the-blue on a parched Aegean hillside. The road signs are in Greek; kids shriek and tease each other in Greek; the church is Greek Orthodox; even the flags are Greek.
Calabrians of the Greek area have about as many words for goat as the Inuit—according to that popular urban legend, on Baffin Island, say, or in northern Siberia—have for snow. There’s a poster in the museum in Bova, the capital of Calabria’s Aspromonte Grecanica region, listing dozens of goaty Greco-Calabrian terms, and to the untrained ear of a foreigner they could sound like invocations: O tragopuddho (a young billy goat); to rifi ozzopodi (a young goat that gets separated from the flock); asti tripimeno (a goat with a hole in its ear). A goat bell can be either a cambana, cuduni, cudhuneddho or cudunaci; not to be confused with enan ximerinaci (a bell worn by a small goat) or, god forbid, enan mpecurinaci—a bell worn by a lamb.
The goat is among the most agile and graceful animals of the Greek Aspromonte. Present since prehistoric times, it is perfectly adapted to its meager pastures and the steep walls of its mountains, thanks to its ability to balance which allows it to climb anywhere, even trees. The food requirement of a goat is in fact equal to a tenth of that of a cattle, despite its milk production being higher.
These animals were raised not only for their milk (gala) but also for their meat and skins, from which they made clothes and wineskins, drums and wind instruments such as bagpipes.
The Arab chronicler 'Abu al-Fida (1273-1331) later mentions the abundance of goats in the Ionian Aspromonte, when he refers to the large number of animals slaughtered on the slopes of the castle of San Niceto, during a Saracen incursion.
Since the Middle Ages, goat farming has played a considerable role in the local economy, to the point that the pastures were strictly regulated.
During the sixteenth century, goat farming was, together with silkworm farming, the major source of income.
Among the most important dairy products, a mention should be reserved for a traditional table cheese, consumed exclusively during the Easter period, called musulupu, "bite of the wolf". Similar to tuma, this fresh cheese is still prepared with artisanal methods and tools, packaged in particular anthropomorphic molds called musulupare. It goes well with seasonal vegetables, pasta and on Easter Eve it becomes the basis for a typical omelette from Bovesìa.
Even breeding follows ancient practices, the same as the Greek and Byzantine shepherds who for centuries led their flocks through transhumances from the coasts to the most inaccessible mountains of Aspromonte. Flocks of goats can be seen everywhere traveling the length and breadth of the Grecanica area.
Photo by Quelli che Reggio Calabria
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