#corset bones

[lucy-corsetry]

Hi! I'm wondering if it's possible to use steel boning instead of underwire in a bra? I think it would offer more support for larger sizes, and I'm kinda figuring out how to go about it... Do you think it can be done?

Hello! As I understand, the underwire is actually a (sort of semi-circular) very rigid steel bone in itself - but I’m guessing you mean to put vertical boning through the cup itself to create structure? I am fairly certain it’s possible. During the Regency period some of the stays / jumps were so short, they were essentially boned bras in that sense.

My Goddess longline bra actually does have (acrylic) bones in the cups - but in addition to underwires. Electra Designs makes a corset bra that’s underwire-free and designed to perfectly match her underbust corsets! But whether you can get a modern-bra shape (rounded/ projecting bust) out of a corset-bra pattern, that I’m not 100% sure about. I’m really not a bra expert - perhaps karolinalaskowska would be able to give you a more detailed answer, as she has experience in both bra making and corset making. :)

Others are more than welcome to chime in on this as well.

[lucy-corsetry]

Hi Lucy! I have a new corset on which I would like to bend the busk just a bit to fit my abdomen better. Is there any reason I couldn't do this? And, if it won't ruin the corset, what would be the best way to go about making the bends? Thanks!

I know a few people who bend their busks. :) I have curved busks/ underbusks slightly in the past so the top edge wouldn’t dig into my sternum. Others will curve the bottom of the busk to cup under a bit of a tummy. It’s not quite “all you need to do” to get a really good contour around a tummy, because preferably the couple of panels in the front would be drafted/ cut to taper and curve under the tummy too, but bending the busk or front flat bones would be better than nothing - kind of like for someone with lordosis, the best case scenario is to actually draft for it, but if you’re limited to OTR, curving the back bones can certainly help.

For curving a busk, I would recommend using a similar technique as I showed in the video linked above for curving the back steels. Mark out exactly where you need the curve, gently manipulate it with your hands a little at a time, and keep trying on the corset again and again. Avoid going too quick with it or causing kinks.

As you’re curving the busk, keep the clasps closed so you make sure both sides are being curved to the same degree, which will make sure that the loops and knobs line up properly.

[lucy-corsetry]

Hi there Lucy, I just wanted to know something! How can you tell plastic boning from steel? Is there visible difference? (if you could provide side-to-side photos that would be great) and lastly, I just needed to say that I love you and your blog / vlog. It should be illegal to be that graceful wow<3

Hello! Thanks so much for your compliments. :)

One important thing to note is that most OTR corset companies will not invest in the good quality synthetic whalebone - so in corsets I’ve tried which contained plastic boning, the bones were pretty poor quality. The corsets felt unusually lightweight (in direct comparison to the number of bones and layers; light corsets are not always a measure of quality) and I also noticed that the bones were atypically flexible, even compared to spiral bones.

But the biggest way to check is to get a decent magnet (I use a wand made for picking up pins, but I’ve heard others use a Curiously Strong Magnet) and check the bones for iron content. If there’s no pull, it’s a good chance that it’s plastic (as carbon fibre bones are SUPER stiff and as far as I know is not used in any OTR corsets).

I have a video on different types of corset bones here, if you’re interested. :)