#corset construction

[corsetdiary]

Dear Diary

So, for Christmas my family drew names for Secret Santa. I got my youngest sister’s name, and she always wanted me to make her a corset. Now, even though I really should have made her an appropriate corset from scratch, my procrastinating ways, and her being to young to have a real corset lead to me just modifying a pre-made fashion corset.

These are the photos of the construction/process.

[slowlymyparadise]

Jean Paul Gaultier

[mastersayssew]

Pattern Pondering/Corset Construction Considerations

I wonder why it is that patterns for the majority of corsets made today have shifted away from shapes formed on the horizontal and diagonal to the vertical while bras have done the opposite. Was it a particular set of corsetiers or even one corsetier in particular who worked best with long horizontal panels, or was it simply the change in fashion away from S bend corsets? My instinct, for what it's worth, when I plan in my head to make a corset or bustier that supports and cinches is very much of the older styles of pattern. The vertical patterns of today actually seem very inorganic for the human form when I think about them (this is not me saying it's a flaw or disapproving, I am talking from my own weird head from the only perspective of how something feels to me that I can) . I know from personal experience of playing with self-drafted patterns that I can taper my ribs, hold in my waist and curve out over my hips very effectively with no boning purely based on following the logic of the form of my body. Perhaps in terms of production of corsets today for clients who are rarely going to be able to have fittings in person, the vertical panels make the most sense.  One corsetier who it absolutely makes sense to me to use vertical panels is Sparklewren due to the almost fan shaped use of boning in some of her pieces.  I often wonder whether, if I was to get to a level with corsetry where I felt I was able to try to sell pieces if using patterns that relied more on the "ebb and flow" of the body (I can't think of another way to put it) in ways that seem to make sense to my odd mind, the pieces would be looked past in favour of what is much, much more standard in terms of pattern for construction due to essentially cleaner lines and it being a method very much proven time and time again to produce extraordinary pieces. If I think about a sphere, it makes sense to use wedge shapes in the same way that we cut segments from oranges. So, acknowledging that a breast is not a sphere, why would we not largely use vertical shapes rather than what is now standard? (this waffle has been brought to you by the overactive mind of not-feeling-well Suz with cravings for strength for a million sewing projects)

[lilyledeux-blog]

Another me-designed corset! Only my second one ever!

[lilyledeux-blog]

Trimed the edges, attached bias tape, inserted grommets and lacing.. and this is the result! I'm so proud of it! <3

[mastersayssew]

My homemade tailors ham is helping iron out the corset 150% better than without. HOORAY FOR PROGRESS! (my health has been much worse over the last week and I've barely been able to do anything, so this is why it's only progressed this much. Plus I was working on embroidered embellishments to put on the corset but I've decided to leave it plain and make things to go over the top that are more decorative)

[lucy-corsetry]

Do you think you will ever review any corsets from Mystic City Corsets? I own the MCC-37 and I really like it. I also ordered two custom corsets from her that should be coming to me very soon.

I hope to, some day. :) I hear that she’s halted production from her old manufacturer and is still getting established with a new facility, so under that presumption I’m giving her time to “settle in” so to speak, to smooth out the bumps of new production and allow the seamstresses to become familiar with her styles and construction methods - thereby hopefully making the construction/ materials/ quality more uniform across all the pieces.

Also Mystic City has so many different styles that what may fit me almost like a custom-fit piece, may not fit everyone the same way. The MCC-37 looks like it would be a bit small in the ribcage and a bit short-waisted on me, but her other MCC-19 looks like it would have better proportions for me. I can’t review every single style of her corsets the way that I’ve done with WKD or OC since she’s constantly coming out with new styles. So my worry is that as soon as I release a review, it would become obsolete in a matter of weeks.

[straitlaceddame]

Corset Pattern Testers

Send me an email!

[email protected]

Those who've volunteered that I've yet to get ahold of (and can't seem to find your Ask box):

nikkis-corset-world

kindheartsblog

titiancourtesan

waist-hate

I didn't think I would have to say "enough!", but I'm going to cap this collaboration at 10 pattern testers.  You've all been so receptive to the idea of letting me practice on you. :)