#craftcalling

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#Surroundings

Surroundings... They affect the way we feel, the way we think... and what we make.

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Albena (part 2): unstringging beads

Here is the story I'd like to share with you from my conversation with Albena.

Reverse Engineering

Some 10 or more years ago Albena moved to Smolyan as she got married to a local guy. Soon after she started working in the History Museum where I met her. When getting familiar with the different galleries Albena came across quite a particular type of jewellery. Necklaces, bracelets and other type of adornments made of fine glass beads. At first glance they seemed quite African or Native American, but at the same time they carried the feel of that eastern European region. Fascinated by the vibrant colours and complex shapes of the beaded jewellery, Albena, much like me, decided to ask around and pick up the skill of stringing these beads.

Unfortunately, soon after she realised no one knew how that's made any more. Older women from the nearby villages remembered of such thing, but none could teach her. The knowledge has gone for good. That's where Albena made a brave step, deciding to unstring one of the necklaces from the museum collection.

"Reverse engineering" she said.

For a month she kept taking beads out one by one in attempts to figure out the architecture of the string. Albena was getting very nervous as she was getting towards the end of the bead necklace, knowing she couldn't afford to take another one apart.

And of course the climax - success! Once she figured out the method Alben was able to start experimenting and guessing the different patterns. So she did. From that point it was all good. As part of a community funded program Albena managed to pass on the craft to children(pdf in Bulgarian) from local schools, as well as worked with nearby orphanages. Her humble determination impressed me. That is definitely someone I would like to collaborate with in the future. I really want to find ways to apply her skills and develop this craft. I'm sure there is a niche for it as a contemporary design craft. Me and her will need to experiment with materials and techniques to translate this knowledge in the current times. Can't wait.

I'm sure there is somewhere in the world where other people also do these type of beads. In fact there are probably hundreds of places but it was the determination of the individual to recreate the beauty that fascinated me. Also the makers of these pieces should be really proud to have triggered such events.

The will, the need even, to make and pass on the knowledge in Albena is admirable.

After our hours long conversation I left with my next destination. The school for traditional applied arts in Smolyan.

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These are Kukeri masks at the Smolyan Museum. It's a traditional folk ritual that is meant to scare the evil spirits away. Although I was told at the museum they make children cry! Maybe these were some evil kids...

Here is a slightly psychedelic video depicting one of these masquerade parades.

You might have noticed the 'Chan' animal bells that are part of the ritual. Well I met one of the makers during my journey. Will blog about that later on.

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Albena (part 1)

This post I would like to dedicate to Albena.

After my rather discouraging start I decided to join my friends that were travelling to Smolyan for a New year's eve party and then stay on to scout the place for craftsmen. The town is situated in one of my favourite regions in the south east corner of the country. That place was meant to be rich in everything that I was after. What better starting point for my journey. (It is also home to the Bulgarian 'Kaba' bagpipe. Bits of fun trivia for the Scots.) 

Obviously I did my research beforehand, got some contacts written down, etc, etc... But for some reason I felt like going with the flow, asking around, see what comes up. After all I was there! (Not to mention how incredibly helpful and nice local people were). So not long after I started looking for the regional history museum some strangers walked me there, and then quickly wondered off to get on with their current affairs.

Before me stood and impressive modernist building. Actually the place was a small jungle of architectural communist heritage. I guess the focal point was the statue of the ancient Thracian hero Orpheus surrounded by these concrete monsters (+ some attempt for contemporary architecture extension to one of the buildings).

But enough about the surrounding environment.

I got in the museum. It was cold. I guess the economic situation in the world did effect eastern Europe quite a bit - a rather drastic way in comparison to its elder brothers from the European family.

There I met Albena. She was the only other person in the museum apart from myself. And, yes, she did work at that very establishment. As I was the only visitor she showed me around... God it was cold.

tbc

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The Coppersmith

I've heard that there was a coppersmith somewhere in town still. So I went on to find him. Some people at my parents' age remembered how the tinkers (people who tin plate usually copper pots and pans; tinsmiths) would wander down the streets of Sofia and announce their presence, of course by shouting "Tinker! Tinker!". If there were any volunteers willing to get their copper saucepans fixed, the tinsmiths would set up a small fire at the end of the street and commence the procedure. The exact same one I witnessed myself once I found the coppersmith.

*As we know copper oxidises easily and unless tin plated such vessels are unsuitable to cook in.

Despite the fact that his little shop got broken into during Christmas he was one jolly artisan. I'm sure I was actually more disappointed then he was, as all that he had left was pretty much a single coffee pot.

As expected he wasn't too optimistic about the future of his craft, although he had a younger apprentice (unlike most of the other craftsmen I've met).

The coppersmith told me stories of how he adopted the craft from his father and how he got his master's certificate. As well as a few tales about his extraordinarily impressive alcohol distilling container building skills. Some of these containers were visible in the background.

He was a happy person. 

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1100 km

1100 km, 5 towns in 8 days around Bulgaria

In that short period of time I've gathered so much experience and information. Even though I've been back to London since almost a week now I've been unable calm my excitement form that trip and start writing. 

Just a quick preface.

I started my project by looking up craftsmen in the register available at the International fair of traditional crafts "Etar". They were listed by craft and were so many. I could've gone  for copper-works, pottery, wood carving, basket weaving and many others, although for some unknown even to myself reason I chose to try and get in touch with an old master of fishing nets. That's right. Some of my friends found the idea rather funny when I informed them of my intention to spend Christmas at a god forsaken fishermen's village at the Bulgarian seaside. 

But anyway I needed to act. As far as I knew Anesti Savov was the last master of his craft left in the country. I wanted to get as much as I could from him - The Master. Obviously if I really wanted I could learn how to weave fishing nets from a youtube video. As simple as that. But I was thirsty for the intangible knowledge and experience he could offer.

To cut a long story short... At the time I was in London and my mother was asked by me to contact Anesti Savov. Which she did. Only later did we realise that the phone answered Anesti Savov Jr, the old master's son. I though there was something dodgy when she told me I could find the net weaver on facebook. Enabled by the capabilities of the social network I though I could then freely express myself and explain my project to the young Anesti. Unfortunately he did not share my excitement and quite reluctantly answered my long messages. I guess driven by my overexcitement and the fear of me taking over his house and craft he decided not to remember the conversation with my mother. For me it was over. I didn't want to force myself into it.

I was interested in that particular craft especially because I couldn't see future for it. At least in its currentform. Clearly the manufactured fishing nets are better in any one way than the handmade option. So idealistically I though we could develop some interesting products which would preserve the craft in a different dimension. Me, the product designer, and him, the authentic craftsman, working together. Well I guess it wasn't meant to be. At least for now.

This event was rather discouraging. I had to come up with something else and quick!

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