london fashion week: craig lawrence
knitwear designer craig lawrence, whom we haven't yet seen the work of, but who was responsible for gareth pugh's knitwear during the first six seasons of that house, showed a brief and lovely collection for the s/s 2012 season at london fashion week. he's known for, as he tells lfw, "(k)nitting with unconventional materials to create voluminous, fluffy and shiny knits."
he continued on to them that he was inspired by "(s)tolen innocence, the BBC series Five Daughters and Vajazzling," for spring, although a couple of other sources also added in there the seaside photography of martin parr. "Lawrence created a rich, textured knitwear collection in muted, pastel tones. Lawrence embarked on his first collaboration with Swarovski and debuted his first print designs," added the uk's my daily.
"He’s chosen a lot of metallic rose gold yarn, dusky beige pink as well as cream shreds of material that he knits with, creating a loose-knit effect, somewhere in between lace and crochet. The end result was a kind of slouchy, teenager-in-the-nineties effect of layered leggings, miniskirts, crop tops and off the shoulder sweaters over knitted racerback vests, but we all know the real joy and the USP of a Craig Lawrence piece isn’t really about the silhouette, it’s the intricate surface and texture created by his techniques," wrote grazia.
meanwhile, wwd wrote that "Lawrence employed mostly coppery metallic yarn and soft teal green for his palette. His artisanal approach is more about texture than shape. New elements included Alcantara strips for fishnet dresses and a Swarovski yarn, adding a glittery effect to his rough-looking knit pieces," while my daily ended their review with a trilling "(t)he understated pastel tones on crystal embellished garments were nothing short of beautiful."
and, as grazia cleverly pointed out at the end of their review, "the addition of Swaroski crystallized (TM) embellishment made us think of the seaside, shells, pebble beaches and sand. The curious spikey headdresses and spikey tights made by Steven Dochertyreminded us of sea urchins too." it may not be the kind of collection that will catch on everywhere, but it has the artistic appeal that makes london one of the more exciting and independent-feeling cities in the major block of fashion weeks.