Finding good food in Washington is no longer a long shot, the city teems with well-appointed establishments boasting glorious reviews and talented staffs.
And so it is, after too long a wait, that I visited Brasserie Beck (1101 K Street, NW, 202-408-1717) one afternoon for a lunch with friends.
Robert Wiedmaier came to Washington to open Aquarelle, the elegant riverfront restaurant that took over Jean-Louis Paladin’s old haunt in the Watergate. From this start, Wiedmaier has built a portfolio of fine restaurants, including Marcel’s and, more recently, Brasserie Beck. Wiedmaier’s preference for the Belgian influence shows quickly in BB, from the beer bar positioned right inside the entrance to the choice of ingredients and the selection of dishes on the menu.
Cassoulet and Salmon “en Papillotte” is comfortable beside the Veal Schnitzel and Rabbit Pie; even the sides are prepared with diligence and attention to artistic detail. The Butternut Squash Crêpe and Cream of Parsnip Soup stand out, but all the choices deserve attention.
The extraordinary list of mussels shows off Wiedmaier’s creative talent. Mussel-lovers and skeptics alike should indulge in any of the long list of options, including Spicy Red Thai Curry, Fennel & Chorizo, and Wild Mushroom, among others, delectable sauces spooned over the choice Prince Edward Island mussels.
And if mussels don’t float your boat, don’t hesitate to try the Beef Carbonade, Whole Roasted Boneless Trout, or Roasted Merguez Sausage and Lentils. I worked through several friends’ appetizers and was more than happy to settle for the Lamb Sandwich, paired with a perfectly wonderful glass of Font de Blanche Côtes du Rhône.
The list of wines by the bottle is very extensive and, with representatives from every major wine-producing country, will very likely satisfy even the most discriminating palate. My only concerns are the relatively short list of wines by the glass (BTG), and the fact that the half-bottle list includes only white wines. It’s true, bottle orders are common at dinner and a restaurant that focuses on the dinner crowd might count on bottle orders. But lunch service needs to include more wines BTG, and even diners in for supper deserve the chance to order individual glasses of fine wine to suit their specific dishes.
But this was a memorable meal, one that encourages me to return – many times – and challenge Wiedmaier and his staff to impress me time after time.
Bargain Hunters’ note: On Tuesday nights, most wines on Brasserie Beck’s list are 50% off.
