Glasshouse Bistro & Cafe in St.Albert, AB
St.Albert has been the place I've called home for many years, and though it's population has grown considerably, only recently has it's restaurant scene decided it's time to catch up to the ever-growing feeling amongst St.Albertans for something bigger, better, and more extravagant. St.Albert might feel more calm than an episode of 'Real Housewives of Orange County', but the fact still remains that Kingswood needs to be fed, and finally they have a gluten-free-friendly restaurant to fill their culinary void.
Restaurant type: Canadian, brunch, gluten-free-friendly, vegetarian friendly, local, heavy
Honest flavour: 8/10 - The Glasshouse Bistro focuses on locally produced ingredients and the menu offers a variety of classic dishes done right. I recently enjoyed their Sunday brunch; the most widely-known menu from the former Prairie Bistro. I had the farmer's scramble: a bowl of herb infused, roasted root vegetables with peppers, scrambled egg, pork sausage, carrot bread, and a house-made ketchup. The vegetables were well seasoned and tender, and the sausage was peppery, lean, and full of flavour. The house-made ketchup was sweet and tangy, and it complemented the entire dish well. The carrot toast, albeit very crunchy, was full of flavour and a nice textural contrast. My date's fench toast with smoked gouda, and an apple pumpkin compote was absolutely delicious. The toast was cut an inch and a half thick, but seemed to retain it's texture and remained un-mushy. Her dish also included the same pork sausage that I had in my farmer's bowl; the piquant sausage would be a nice contrast to the sweet and salty french toast. I'll admit, I wish I had ordered the french toast after tasting it, but I left feeling very satisfied nonetheless.
Ingenuity of flavour: 6/10 - Where the Glasshouse Bistro seems to fall short is in it's inability to incorporate those intriguing aspects of a dish that keep me coming back, and wanting to try everything on the menu. That said- there are certainly some items on the menu that stand out as being more compelling than the rest, but the majority seem a bit run of the mill for a restaurant with such an elaborate location and decor. The braised short ribs with red wine jus, roasted mushrooms & winter vegetables seems too simple, too easy, and somewhat underwhelming when you expect the menu to be as bright and interesting as the restaurant looks. The Glasshouse Bistro's menu does include a few 'outside the box' selections such as the ricotta and goat cheese crepes with arugula pesto and artichokes, and the confit duck leg, which includes brussel sprouts and a savory honey, herb, and apple cider gastrique. I can only hope that the restaurant's new ownership will promote a more forward-thinking menu; if I wanted meat with a wine sauce and vegetables I'd go to The Keg like the majority of Alberta.
Restaurant Vibe: 9/10 - The Glasshouse hasn't changed it's ambiance, it's staff, or it's apparent focus since it's recent managerial change, and I am thankful for that. I have always received excellent service and a very comfortable dining experience at The Prairie Bistro, and The Glasshouse has retained that completely. The big, open greenhouse feeling and bright colors in the dinging room lend itself to the fresh, modern feeling associated with The Enjoy Center in St.Albert. Chef Shaun Hicks obviously puts a fair amount of emphasis on the plating of his dishes; we eat with our eyes first, and he has a knack for making even a simple dish look absolutely beautiful. My overall experience at The Glasshouse, even after it's recent changeover has remained steadily exemplary.
Overall Value: 7/10 - The Prairie Bistro is a great choice for those looking for a well prepared, well portioned meal without the price of some of Edmonton's fine dining restaurants. The food is fresh, familiar, and accurate to the menu from my experience, and at $80 for a typical dinner, you can expect to get your money's worth. The brunch menu does seem pricey ($18.00 for french toast) but the quality of ingredients and portion size certainly seem to follow some of the more expensive items on the menu.
Final Thoughts: I've enjoyed my fair share of meals at The Prairie Bistro, but it's recent change in name and ownership doesn't seem to have affected their quality of food, and I can say with certainty that my recent dining experience won't be my last. I do wish the dinner menu was more compelling, but the bright, modern feeling, and the beautifully plated, downright flavourful menu that The Glasshouse has to offer will bring me back- specifically for that french toast. Finally St.Albert can refrain from considering Montana's Cookhouse and East Side Mario's as it's only choices for a meal out.
Glasshouse Bistro & Cafe