Winepedia: Winemakers to the Rescue #02
Timorasso (originally published on: www.enoteca.nl)
The white grape variety Timorasso, also known as Morasso, Timoraccio or Timuassa, is an ancient, indigenous variety, from Colli Tortonesi, the area around Tortona in South East Piemonte. Once, one of the most cultivated grapes in this region, was used both for making wine and for the table. But when after the phylloxera epidemy, vineyards were being replanted, the more productive Cortese and the commercial champion Chardonnay found greater favour among growers, putting Timorasso at the brink of extinction. The agricultural census of 2000 showed a total planting in Italy of only 20 ha. (49 acres). We have to thank stubborn, visionary producers like Walter Massa, if Timorasso is knocking spots off the lean Cortese and the soft and simple Arneis, nowadays a prime feature of the quality offer of the Tortona region.
Timorasso is often found in blends under the D.O.C. Colli Tortonesi and Monferrato Bianco, its production spreading across the provinces of Alessandria and Asti, but their most sincere advocates are demanding the introduction of a Timorasso D.O.C. in order to protect and promote the best features of this variety that to the most trained palates resemble a mix of Chablis & Savennieres on the accounts of its high acidity, creaminess and rich extract.
The gentle climate of the region, the variation in the daily temperature range, the calcareous soil, striped with clayey layers, all provide very favourable conditions for the cultivation of this low yielding, early-mid ripening grape: its small but sugar-rich berries have a thick skin, bearing a wide palette of aromas and structure!
It does well in a variety of styles from the zesty crispness of the un-oaked, steel-tank sort to the complexity of those richer lees-aged types; from still to sparkling it also carries well the bruised apple, oxidative style of some natural winemaking.
The nose inviting sweet minerality, can include flavors like candied fruit, spiced and honeyed, but can surprise with more bitterly notes of mountain herbs and green tea notes. The palate is generally full of flavors, sustained by a consistent acidity, that drags into a lingeringly elegance, with a gently floral finish.
According to the winemaking style, it can be consumed young or let grow patiently in its bottle for another couple of decades.