#falserump

[phoebedoescostume]

#fallforcostume day 4 - #structure. following on from yesterday’s post, this is the most structured of the rumps i tested for my katrina van tassel costume. more suited to the later 18th century than the others, the volume is created solely at the back, and can actually be controlled with ties. based on an extant pair from patterns of fashion 5, it’s a wired pasteboard (i used buckram) supporter, with a small rump on top. i love this thing, it gives a lovely smooth round shape. if you want to see it under a petticoat you can find a picture further down my feed. the last picture is from the book, showing the mounted original. #falserump #18thcenturyrump #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #bumpad #bumroll #historicalfashion #periodfashion #periodsewing #sewingproject #experimentalarchaeology #patternsoffashion5 #theschoolofhistoricaldress #costume #petticoat #skirtsupport #stripes #ticking https://www.instagram.com/p/B3NKAoGgiIh/?igshid=1hln5li22zs9l

[phoebedoescostume]

for #fallforcostume day 3 #soft, i offer my 18th century false rump because it’s so big and squishy! i made this rump, after much trial and error, for my katrina van tassel costume. as you can see i used one of the @americanduchess simplicity patterns, which was a godsend because i could not figure out the right shape. i have a blog post about it on my website, link in bio. #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #falserump #americanduchess #stripy #1780s #1790s #katrinavantassel #katrinavantasselcosplay #blackandwhite #blackandwhitestripes #bumpad #sewingproject #historicalsewing #periodsewing https://www.instagram.com/p/B3KlWX4gQlA/?igshid=d07m2fe6jsv1

[phoebedoescostume]

FALSE RUMPS: HIPS. here are my test rumps from the front, for side views see the previous post. bear in mind that my hips are much broader than my mannequin’s so on me there would be extra volume at the sides. no. 1 is the split rump from the american duchess guide to 18th century dressmaking. again the shape is a little too large, and starts too low down. it’s difficult to see in this photograph but the shape also starts too far back, rather than exactly at the sides like katrina’s. no. 2 is the rump and supporter from patterns of fashion 5. as you can see these two give no shaping at the sides. great for late 18th century styles but not for me, which is a shame because the back was perfect. no. 3 is the rump shape i borrowed from the lady victoria’s blog. this gives the best shape at the sides out of the three, but still needs work. the bump starts higher up than the split rump, which is good. but it is too wide, and doesn’t create a nice round shape under the skirts. an adjusted version of this pattern will probably work best. no. 4 is a tudor bum roll (from the tudor tailor) provided for comparison. the shape is too sharp for this. #falserump #rump #18thcenturyrump #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #bumpad #bumroll #historicalfashion #periodfashion #periodsewing #sewingproject #experimentalarchaeology #americanduchess #patternsoffashion5 #thetudortailor #costume #petticoat #skirtsupport #stripes #katrinavantassel #katrinavantasselcosplay https://www.instagram.com/p/BxK7Nb6gWsL/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=9fb2503p02ns

[phoebedoescostume]

FALSE RUMPS: BUMS. last week i made one of the petticoats for my katrina costume, so at the weekend i took the opportunity to test out my rumps. no. 1 is the split rump from the american duchess guide to 18th century dressmaking. you can’t see it in this photograph but the petticoat dips a lot between the two pads (good for that little point at the CB found in italian gowns). the volume of the bump also starts quite low down. both of these factors mean the skirts of kat’s pierrot wouldn’t have enough support. no. 2 is the rump and supporter from patterns of fashion 5. this one is my favourite, it gives a lovely round shape, and it’s size can be adjusted thanks to the secondary ties on the supporter. no. 3 is the rump shape i borrowed from the lady victoria’s blog. the bump starts higher up with this one but it’s too big. it could also do with a smoother shape where the rump finishes under the petticoat. i think a ruffle would help with this, which i omitted from the original. no. 4 is a tudor bum roll (from the tudor tailor) provided for comparison. it is neither big enough nor does it provide a soft enough shape. #falserump #rump #18thcenturyrump #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #bumpad #bumroll #historicalfashion #periodfashion #periodsewing #sewingproject #experimentalarchaeology #americanduchess #patternsoffashion5 #thetudortailor #costume #petticoat #skirtsupport #stripes #katrinavantassel #katrinavantasselcosplay https://www.instagram.com/p/BxK7F_ZAkwQ/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=thgjnayny1la

[phoebedoescostume]

RUMP 3: last but definitely not least is this big ‘un. it’s based on one from The Lady Victoria’s blog, which in turn is based on the print ‘The Bum Shop’. i wanted a bit more volume at the sides than i thought i’d get from the first two rumps so this shape seemed more suitable. i need to try it with stays and a petticoat to see if the proportions are right. #bumpad #falserump #rump #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #historicalfashion #periodfashion https://www.instagram.com/p/BwFgJIzgPyq/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=sphh33zb0is2

[phoebedoescostume]

RUMP 2: the second style i decided to try is from patterns of fashion 5. it’s small, so i think it would only add a very subtle bump to the skirts. in the book it is paired with a wired pasteboard supporter, which i didn’t originally want to make. but now i think it’s the main shaping element, while the pad’s job is just to soften the shape the supporter provides. so i think i will make it, if just to see what difference it makes. #bumpad #falserump #rump #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #historicalfashion #periodfashion #patternsoffashion5 https://www.instagram.com/p/BwFf9u_ANn2/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=woggspoir5uz

[phoebedoescostume]

i’ve been struggling to be consistently productive over the past few weeks so i decided to give myself an easy, low pressure, but educational project that i could fit around work. i’ve got plans for a late 18th century costume (more on that another time), which needs a false rump. but i wasn’t sure which shape/style would be best. so i thought why not try a few to see what they look like and go from there. RUMP 1: this split rump is from the american duchess guide to 18th century dressmaking. it looks very large but it does adhere to the proportions laid out by the book i.e. about double my waist measurements. i didn’t add the skirt bit because i wanted to be frugal with my fabric, and to be honest i’m not entirely sure what purpose it serves. can anybody enlighten me? #bumpad #falserump #rump #18thcentury #18thcenturyfashion #historicalfashion #periodfashion #americanduchess https://www.instagram.com/p/BwFf1JQgbq6/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=f87tlpxrmqdn