Discover Turku: Finland’s Hidden Nordic Gem
Nestled along the banks of the River Aura, Turku—Finland’s oldest city and first capital—often flies under the radar compared to popular Nordic destinations like Stockholm and Copenhagen. Founded in 1229, this charming city of 200,000 on the southwest coast serves as the gateway to the world’s largest archipelago, boasting over 40,000 islands.
Locally known as Åbo, Turku has a rich history, transitioning from a Swedish stronghold in the Middle Ages to an autonomous Grand Duchy under the Russian Empire in 1809. Since Finland’s independence in 1917, it has established itself as a vibrant cultural hub, sometimes affectionately referred to as "the Paris of Finland" for its flourishing food and café scene.
A Walkable City with a Cozy Atmosphere
Turku’s compact city center features tree-lined boulevards dotted with 19th-century theatres, coffee shops, and market halls, many with a focus on sustainability. Shoppers can explore unique finds, from vintage vinyl at the three-story 8raita Record Store to vintage kimonos and artisanal crafts at Boutique Minne. For book lovers, the nonprofit Turku Kirjakahvila offers an array of literature and delicious vegan pastries.
While the Great Fire of 1827 destroyed 70% of Turku’s buildings, history comes alive at the Museum of Archaeology and Contemporary Art, showcasing the remnants of the medieval quarter, Aboa Vetus. Above ground, the majestic Turku Castle, constructed in the 13th century, stands sentinel over the river and now functions as a museum.
Culinary Delights and Local Libations
The food scene in Turku has gained international acclaim, particularly after the tasting-menu restaurant Kaskis earned the city its first Michelin star in 2022. The restaurant’s founders, Simo Raisio and Erik Mansikka, focus on local ingredients, crafting dishes that reflect the region’s bounty. Chef Mansikka has become a symbol of Turku’s culinary aspirations, recognized not just for his talent but also for his vibrant personality.
Local markets, like the bustling Turku Market Hall, provide a sensory overload with fresh produce, meats, and fish. Here, chef-fishmonger Johan Hellsten serves delectable creations that spotlight seasonal flavors. Don’t miss the chance to sample locally caught rainbow trout or indulge in a reindeer dish prepared two ways.
In terms of beverages, Finland's wine culture is evolving, thanks to local entrepreneurs experimenting with ingredients like lingonberries and cloudberries. Urban winery Noita is gaining attention for its natural wines, crafted from organic grapes sourced from Austria.
Turku serves as the perfect launching pad for exploring the surrounding archipelago. Accessible via ferry and boasting a network of electric ferries, the region invites visitors to choose their own adventure among its many islands. Nearby Ruissalo, a former hunting ground for the castle’s court, is perfect for a relaxing spa day followed by sauna sessions.
The archipelago comes alive in summer, attracting 1.5 million visitors to Åland, a group of over 6,500 islands known for their stunning natural beauty and rich history. The annual Harvest Festival in September showcases local farms and artisanal products, making it a culinary delight for visitors.
Thanks to Finland’s "Everyman’s Right" law, visitors can camp almost anywhere, allowing for a deeper connection to nature. The archipelago's winter activities, like cross-country skiing and ice fishing, offer a different but equally enchanting experience.
In spring and summer, the Archipelago Trail—a scenic 250km ring road—invites exploration between the islands. On a recent trip, I discovered Hotel Hyppeis on Houtskär island, a renovated schoolhouse offering cozy accommodations and multi-course dinners highlighting local ingredients.
Turku, with its blend of history, vibrant culture, and stunning natural surroundings, is a hidden treasure in the Nordic landscape. It’s a destination that promises memorable experiences, whether through its culinary innovations, historical landmarks, or breathtaking archipelago adventures.
