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This is a great 3d print, it came out great and works so well! (The other side has the d20, d10, and d8 on it)
gonna carry this in my pocket to always have a quick roll whenever i need it :) model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/599266-spinning-dice-for-d-d
I was annoyed at how gloomy one corner of our guest room gets, so I had the idea to put my old bedside lamp in the darkest corner.
The lampshade disintegrated the second I picked it up, because it turns out that's what happens 12-14 years into the life cycle of the cheapest lamp Ikea had at the time. The rest of the lamp was fine. The original LED light bulb I put in when I got it is still fine. Ikea still makes the lamp, but it's so cheap, you can't get replacement shades for it.
There's a free STL to print a one, but the base is, annoyingly, one cm wider than my printer's max dimensions in every direction except vertical. So. Either I pay someone to print a piece to repair a lamp I paid four bucks for. Or. I drive 4 hours with a roll of filament to a friend who has a bigger printer. Or. I cut up a model that is too thin to feasibly accept connectors of any kind, and think outside the box.
My roll-o-random-miscolor-for-a-rock-bottom-price rPLA had come up beige, so I figured I had something that would work but with which I could afford to goof up a little. And I did. A weird seam placement ruined my first print. The third randomly failed (I was too lazy to clean my print plate) by the second layer.
But 13 hours and a bit of ribbon later, I have used three decades' of 21st century design and technology and advancement to... make an early 1980s lampshade.
The total price in filament is below that of any table lamp Ikea currently sells, and I didn't have to drive or travel or pay shipping or trash a perfectly functional lamp. If the base breaks, I did not use glue on the two halves, so they are fully recyclable, and... There's a print that fits my print bed to reuse the guts of this.
When I was about seven, my parents got us a mosaic toy which has about 3 premade pictures that use twice the orange that comes with it. There was never any way to procure more blocks outside of buying a second toy.
So, as the laws of the universe demand, the nephews have decided this is the best toy option at Grandma's and Grandpa's if they are the ones tidying up after, and still in the top three otherwise. They have been vocal about the "lost" orange pieces.
My dad is very good with a pair of calipers. I am not, but "the slicer works better for me" and I know where the shape gallery is. He told me the measurements, I wrangled the settings, he screamed at the nine hour print time, and ta-da!
These are about to be my two to-be-most-used 3D models of all times.
Finally, I printed a measuring cube that I feel good about gifting to someone else.
I did a test run in some Novamaker white PETG which came out pretty good, albeit a bit stringy. I noodled with slicer settings and came up with something better, but ran out of filament before the next print run's completion.
So after replacing the welded-shut PTFE tube in the throat of the hotend, I decided to load this very pretty Galaxy Red PETG. With the new settings, stringing and blobbing were minimal. I printed this on the smooth PEI side of a FulaFlex 2.0 build plate, and I love the results! (And yes, purple glue stick is really important to avoid PETG bonding too hard to the PEI.)
The thing that you pull on to make the couch recliner broke. So I made one. STL links here
3D print - Toy treasure chest with simple functional lock - GitHub - DrLex0/print3D-hinged-locked-treasure-chest: 3D print - Toy treasure ch
Finally printed this treasure chest for Krissy, and I think it came out great! The upper, lower and key were printed in copperfill PLA (some random brand I had an unopened spool of); the latch mechanism was printed in the red PLA+ that came with the X-max printer. Printed at 200% and still had room to spare on the build plate!
Krissy is planning to post-process with wet sandpaper and Brasso.
