New Orleans: Lunch at Galatoire's

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New Orleans: Lunch at Galatoire's
One of my favorite things to do in New Orleans is to spend an afternoon doing fancy things, like getting a little dressed up and going to Galatoire’s for lunch and then making our way over to the Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt for late-afternoon cocktails.
Veal Liver w/Bacon & Onion, Creamed Spinach, & Bread Pudding. Galatoire’s. New Orleans, Louisiana. 11.21.2017.
I think this was my first time to have veal liver, but I didn’t find it to be any different than beef liver. Such a delicious texture, made savory by the bacon and onions. The creamed spinach was rich. I was in a coma by the time the bread pudding showed up, so I don’t really remember what happen there. This trip to New Orleans is turning into a gluttonous disaster.
Currently ranked 2nd of 20 November meals.
Galatoire’s | #TCEatsNOLA
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The BIG EASY Recipe of the Week: Galatoire's Shrimp Remoulade
The BIG EASY Recipe of the Week!
Each week I post a different recipe from one of the great restaurants in New Orleans. Maybe it’s a restaurant you’re familiar with, or maybe it’s one you’ve always wanted to check out. If you’re planning a trip to New Orleans and plan on eating at the restaurant, you can always call ahead or visit their website for any updated information. Don’t forget to tell them Red Beans and Eric sent you! On second thought…
This weeks Recipe of the Week is SHRIMP REMOULADE from Galatoire’s Restaurant!
Galatoire’s, 209 Bourbon Street (504) 525-2021, has been voted one of the Top 101 Restaurants in America by The Daily Meal, Gambit Weekly voted it the best restaurant in the French Quarter and the New York Times named it in the Top 10 restaurants in the world! There are many other awards that the restaurant has earned since being started by Jean Galatoire in 1905.
The original restaurant called Victor’s Restaurant opened in the 1830′s. Jean Galatoire bought the restaurant and started cooking the foods from his homeland of Pau France. The restaurant now specializes in French Creole and has been winning over customers and awards for over a century. In 2004 it was cited by the James Beard Foundation as an “outstanding restaurant” in America.
Do you want a recommendation one of America’s most famous playwright’s? Galatoire’s was Tennessee Williams favorite restaurant! He had a regular table in the front by a window facing Bourbon Street. He loved the restaurant so much that he had Stella and Blanche have dinner there in the beginning of A STREET CAR NAMED DESIRE.
As you stroll along Bourbon Street, make sure you stop in and enjoy one of New Orleans finest restaurants. Just keep in mind that at lunch men may dress casually, but after 5:00 PM, and all day on Sundays, men must wear a jacket.
What’s you’re favorite menu item from Galatoire’s?
GALATOIRE’S SHRIMP REMOULADE
¾ cup chopped celery ¾ cup chopped scallions (white and green parts) ½ cup chopped curly parsley 1 cup chopped yellow onion ½ cup ketchup ½ cup tomato purée ½ cup Creole mustard or any coarse, grainy brown mustard 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, or to taste ¼ cup red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons Spanish hot paprika 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce ½ cup salad oil 4 dozen jumbo (15 count) shrimp, peeled, boiled, and chilled 1 small head of iceberg lettuce, washed, dried and cut into thin ribbons
Mince the celery, scallions, parsley, and onions in a food processor. Add the ketchup, tomato puree, Creole mustard, horseradish, red wine vinegar, paprika, and Worcestershire. Begin processing again and add the oil in a slow drizzle to emulsify. Stop when the dressing is smooth. Chill for 6 to 8 hours or overnight. Correct the seasoning with additional horseradish, if desired after the ingredients have had the opportunity to marry.
In a large mixing bowl, add the sauce to the shrimp and toss gently to coat. Divide the lettuce among 6 chilled salad plates. Divide the shrimp evenly atop the lettuce and serve.
(this recipe is from Galatoire’s website)
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New Orleans: The Good, The Bad & The Spicy, Part 2
I could write a post about the wrought iron terraces or the homes with three different styles of columns dating back to the 1800’s that I saw along St. Charles Ave. on my trip to New Orleans (NOLA) last week. I could tell you about the astonishingly good jazz heard while roaming the streets of the French Quarter by day or the mayhem on Bourbon Street after dark. But what struck me most about New Orleans on my first visit here was not the expected, but what lurks beneath the brassy surface of this party town firstly defined by Mardi Gras and Hurricane cocktails, then sadly by an act of nature with a pretty girl’s name, and now by….well…I think that’s where the interesting part lies.
As I sit here in my studio apartment sipping a cleansing spinach drink trying to detox my body from all of the salt, spice, fat and alcohol I consumed in NOLA, I’m struck by the similarities of this place to a few others I’ve seen, and yet there is no place exactly like it, as the locals will be sure to tell you. NOLA is filled with characters from all walks of life brought together by music, merriment and the need to get lost in something. But unlike Las Vegas and Amsterdam, two other cities known in part for their decadence, NOLA puts everyone on the same ground, albeit one that’s below sea level. I'm guessing Hurricane Katrina did much to further the divide between the haves and the have nots, but it seems they occasionally come together and ignore each other in the heart of it all—the French Quarter.
Amidst the pastel-shaded homes with bougainvillea-strewn porches they’re there—the people that everyone notices but no one acknowledges. Those that have sunk so low, that when you’ve all but given up, you can lose it in drink, music, crime, even voodoo. The guide books allude to it in careful language (there are nine instances of safety cautions in the 2013 Fodor’s New Orleans book) like this:
“Much of the post-Katrina media coverage has focused on New Orleans's escalating crime rate. Sadly, this isn't just sensationalism—gangs operate in the city's underpopulated neighborhoods, there's a growing homelessness problem, the murder rate is among the highest in the nation, and armed robberies occur all too frequently. These grim statistics should not dissuade you from visiting, but you need to exercise caution if you venture outside the well-touristed areas—especially at night.” Not dissuade you from visiting? Sounds like one of those commercials for pharmaceuticals that give you all the warnings at the end but then say, "buy the pill!"
As I strolled the French Quarter by day (read on for more about Bourbon Street at night) it was easy to strike up conversations with other tourists as we waited in line for café au lait and beignets (NOLA’s version of fried dough with powdered sugar). Any guide book on NOLA will steer you to Café du Monde for these, but frankly, the experience itself was more exciting than the powdery sweet snack and very milky coffee. The takeout line in back has neat little bundles of three beignets prepackaged and ready to hand out. Listening to the trumpet player give it his all as he serenaded those on the long line for a table was worth the stop here for sure. (More about the music of NOLA in my post Cajun vs. Creole: Who Cares?).
First stop - cafe au lait and beignets
Go Dizzy Go!
A friend of mine who's from there (Mrs. B from my “Four Men and a Lady and a Sailboat” post) took me on a drive-by tour of the Garden District and St. Charles Ave., where the stately homes were decked out in their Halloween finest. New Orleans is a bit of a creepy town all the time, the perfect place to be this time of year!
I am no expert from my four days there but it seems to me that, for some, Katrina stripped every last hope and semblance of decency from this already gritty and lopsided town. It started with the cab driver who told me he lost his home to Katrina, was living in a trailer, and was forced by the city to install a credit card machine in his cab, but that it wasn’t working and he hasn’t seen any money from it in two weeks. Nor does he expect to, that’s the way it goes down there. But this isn’t a third world country, this is America! I thought as I handed him a 30% tip for my ride, paid in cash. (I know, I'm a sucker.)
A woman at the yacht club (I was there for the 2013 Rhodes 19 National Championship at the Southern Yacht Club) spoke of people who were never found after Katrina and for some reason I didn’t think she was talking about being washed out to sea. People went bonkers. The have nots revolted against the haves as best they could and I have a feeling they’re still not done yet.
"Relax...it's just sex."
I really wanted to visit Bourbon Street, although I was told don’t go there alone and it’s ultra-touristy. Still, I had to see it and of course, I went alone! In the daylight, that is. It was alive with mild decadence around 5pm but mostly just looked like a really fun place for Happy Hour. So I stopped into the revolving Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone where I met a lot of fun people as I sipped my first and only Hurricane. This one didn’t have six plus liquors like the original, just one light rum and one dark rum, which was just fine with me.
My friends and I met up for dinner at Galatoire’s on Bourbon Street, probably the finest and best restaurant in NOLA for classic, familial French dining. We had lemon fish, fried oysters, trout, redfish and lots of crabmeat. Best seafood meal I ever had, thanks Mrs. B.
Potatoes souffle with Bearnaise sauce...yum
Trout almondine
Crabmeat with that Cajun mustard. Oh my.
Before the separation!
It wasn’t until after dinner that I got a small taste of the underbelly of Bourbon Street. Actually we were off Bourbon Street trying to find our car (duh!) when somehow our group disbanded one by one. At one point it was just me and one other from our group of five, and I suggested going to look for our other friends in the bathroom of a bar, when he said adamantly, clutching my arms, “Don’t leave, whatever you do, we need to stay together.” Snippets of The Hangover movie swirled in my head and I knew he was right. Cell phones not charged (mine) or not being carried (missing friend). Okay, deep breath. Finally, we all managed to reunite and, most importantly, find the car. (One had taken a cab back, one had a bathroom emergency and one was just being jolly at the random bars.)
I changed my mind about having to see to Bourbon Street when a guy we met at one of the hotels during our search for the others alluded to the “unspeakable” about NOLA. He said he knew of a friend of a friend who went to a bachelor party somewhere on Bourbon Street and disappeared. When his family came to town to find him, he turned up at the morgue, naked, with no identification. Why is it that this nation followed the search for Natalie Holloway for months in Aruba and this guy gets no attention when he vanishes right here in our own country? Perhaps because it’s not an unusual occurrence? The guidebook didn’t specify that the city ranked fifth for the Most Dangerous Cities in the U.S., second only to Detroit and Flint, MI for the number of murders committed. I started to feel the underbelly of NOLA in my craw, the place most tourists never see or hear about and those that do for one reason or another seldom speak about.
If I had to guess I would say the divisiveness of this city—the stately homes, devil may care attitude, fun loving culture of the rich and touristy contrasted with the abject poverty of the poor—is so stark that Katrina gave the have nots an excuse to rise up, but not in the way Bruce Springsteen sang about after 9/11. I’m guessing they rose up in hopelessness, in anger and in resignation, the incredible frustration of feeling forgotten.
If I’ve gotten it wrong or offended anyone from there, my apologies. Like the guidebooks, I don’t mean to discourage anyone from going, but to stay in the flowery French Quarter or Garden District and wander the cobble-stoned streets in search of music and food. But to pretend this is the whole of New Orleans only tells half the story. Maybe less than half.
This town certainly needs all the help it can get financially and I found myself tipping generously as if to say, sorry for what you’ve been through. But what is the real reason we travel, after all? Is it to get lost in the unreal or to see how others live outside our comfortable daily existences? In NOLA you can do both. Just be sure you tell someone where you’re going.
This post is Part 2 of a three-part series on "New Orleans: The Good, The Bad and The Spicy."
Read Part 1: From New Orleans to Asheville and Home Again: Road Trip Southern Style
Read Part 3: Cajun vs. Creole (Who Cares?): New Orleans Food, Music and Grit