#harnessblueadventures

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AUGUST 2015:  MITTAGHORN 3143M, RIGIDALSTOCK 2592M AND ZERMATT MAMMUT VIA FERRATA CLIMBS, SWITZERLAND.

This summer, I was planning a couple of 4000m alpine summit attempts in the Pennine alps plus some via ferrata climbs. I had scheduled 5 days in Zermatt, 5 days in Saas Fee and 4 days in Engelberg. My unfinished business in the Swiss Alps included Castor, Alphubel and Jagihorn! I felt very enthusiastic and fit having trained hard in Sydney with hiking and gym work. And was even motivated by listening to the Sound of Music “Climb Every Mountain” on the flight from Australia! However, the weather didn’t play ball, and consequently, my alpine climbing plans were severely restricted!

Started my acclimatisation with a hike on Mt Oberrothorn (3415M). Legs felt very weary and I was hyperventilating and heart was pounding!  That's the impact of altitude!  The hike took less than 3 hours return from Rothorn and gave beautiful views of the Matterhorn. Had strapped the Gopro camera to my lapel and thus began the appearance of “The Shadow”! On the next day, I continued the acclimatisation, by hiking on the picturesque mountain trail from Schwarzee to the Hornli Hutte (3260M), the  base camp for Matterhorn climbers. Saw this guy struggle up the mountain trail with his dog, an Irish setter. Perhaps the Swiss believe that they and their pets have innate skills to climb mountains! 

The weather in Zermatt was getting worse, raining and overcast!  So unfortunately, I was rained out before I could get any alpine climbing done from Zermatt. I did manage to do a climb on the Mammut Sports Via Ferrata on one overcast but dry morning. I had to climb the VF twice as I had dropped my jacket somewhere during first circuit!  The climb wasn’t too difficult, with one section of vertical wall and overhangs. 

Moved to Saas Fee and the weather was marginally better. Had my first taste this trip of mountain climbing on the rocky Mt Mittaghorn (3143M) using via ferrata. It was overcast. As it happened spoke to this woman in the cable car and asked her if she was climbing and if she knew the way to the via ferrata? Affirmative! That gave me a lot of encouragement and I told her I would follow her seeing I got lost looking for the same mountain last year! 

We completed the climb and return in 5 hours. It turns out that my 'guide' whose name was Alexandra came from Cologne Germany and is an experienced mountaineer, having climbed many 4000M peaks in the alps incl the Matterhorn and the Eiger! She was acclimatising for a big climb in next few days! And to cap off the day, she was very surprised to hear that I was retired when enquiring of my profession! A great days climbing in the company of Alexandra! The VF climb was rated moderately hard (KS3) and included a vertical wall section. 

Made preparations to attempt the more difficult Mt Jagihorn VF climb (3206M) but again the weather was forecast overcast with snow. Hiked from Kreuzboden to the start of the climb and noted that there was snow covering the descent path and some sections of the cables. So abandoned summit attempt as too risky to climb! 

The Saas Fee mountain guides were unable to arrange the Alphubel alpine climb as the cable car for descent not working, and other alpine climbs not available due to weather! So still unable to attempt a 4000M alpine climb and left Saas Fee for the pretty village of Engelberg. 

Weather in Engelberg was fine so was able to do a solo VF climb on Mt Rigidalstock at 2592M on the Saturday. The climb was well signposted and waymarked and there were many climbers, so was able to find my way climbing solo. Rigidalstock provided a lovely climbing route to the summit cross. Climb was rated moderately hard (KS3) with one section of vertical wall. Overall the climb and descent took over 5 hours to complete, and offered many opportunities to scramble on the rocks without need to hang onto the cables. An enjoyable days climbing in great sunshine.  I did notice that the other climbers seemed to be decked out in designer label mountain wear with soft shell and brilliant colours! My more sombre colours were unable to compete from a fashion point of view! 

I was planning a more difficult VF climb on the Graustock (2662M) on my last full day in Engelberg but same story, I had to abandon climb due to forecast thunderstorms.  So my total climbs completed for the trip were 3 Via Ferrata climbs but did complete many shorter hikes. The weather was one factor that one cannot control and impeded any 4000M alpine climb attempts. 

Following the climbing trip, I visited my sister and her family in Zurich. Thence, joined my wife on a fantastic Intrepid tour of Turkey.

On the summit of Mt Mittaghorn 3143M

Alexandra, from Cologne my climb buddy for the day on summit of Mittaghorn 3143M

Alexandra leading the way towards summit of Mittaghorn.

A selfie with the Mittaghorn summit cross over left shoulder in the clouds.

On the summit of Mt Rigidalstock 2592M

Approaching summit cross Mt Rigidalstock

Summit Cross of Rigidalstock in the distance to right

Vertical wall section of via ferrata on Rigidalstock

Long cable on Rigidalstock Via Ferrata

Relaxing on Mammut Via Ferrata Zermatt

Section of vertical wall on the Zermat Mammut Via Ferrata

“The Shadow” hiking up Mt Oberrothorn trail (3415M) towards Matterhorn.

Fixed ropes on the Oberrothorn mountain trail. But it helps to be surefooted!

Views of Matterhorn on the Hornli Hutte trail

Swiss dog (Irish Setter) climbing the Hornli Hutte trail.

Snow covering the descent route from Mt Jagihorn 3206M Via Ferrata! Too risky to climb!

Views from Hohsass of Weissmies mountain (4023M) climbed in 2011

Shepherds herding goats through Zermatt.

All dogs appear to be well groomed and well behaved in Switzerland!

Unsociable and apparently sulking donkeys in Saas Fee.

Titlis (3238M) Engelberg’s most popular tourist attraction but not considered a serious climbing peak.

Blue Mosque Istanbul, Turkey

Hot air balloons Cappadocia, Turkey

VIDEO CLIP - CLICK LINK HERE

Video that I took of Rigidalstock VF Climb using Gopro Hero3

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JULY 2014: ALLALINHORN (4027M) CLIMB, EIGER ROTSTOCK VF CLIMB, SWISS ALPS, SWITZERLAND

This year, I planned to do some mountains climbs in the Bernese Alps and Pennine alps in Switzerland. However, the weather was very fickle this year and I managed to climb only the Allalinhorn (4027M) in the Saastal region and the Eiger-Rotstock (2663M) via ferrata in the Bernese Alps before being closed down by the bad weather.

My first port of call was the beautiful mountain village of Saas Fee, altitude 1800M. Like Zermatt, electric vehicles are allowed only within the village precinct and all motorists are required to park outside the village. 

To aid in acclimatisation and recovery from my jet lag, I wanted to undertake the Mittaghorn via ferrata. But getting there didn't turn out to be very simple. I had to take the Felskinn cable car and then have them specially drop me off at the half way station of Moriena. Then had to hike up the ski slopes to look for the start point of the via ferrata. Feeling all alone without a soul in sight, I then encountered snow which blocked access. So I ended up abandoning  the VF climb, and hiked a couple of hours back down to Saas Fee via the picturesque mountain track.. 

Eventually, some nice weather arrived, and I and many other climbers took the first Metro Alpin train to make a summit attempt of the Allalinhorn mountain at 4027M. I met the other climbing team members and our local Swiss guide Dominik. I was the only climber who couldn't speak German. Unlike previous years, our team of four  were all mature age climbers! We set off on our climb - I was given the position of last on the belay rope. Some steady uphill hiking took us to the start of the steep climbing section, all manageable so far! Given the numbers of climbers, we had to wait our turn to start the zig zag sections of the climb. After achieving over 500M elevation gain, we reached the sub peak and waited our turn to cross to the summit. The peak was reached via a summit ridge of about half meter wide for some 50 metres long. Not too scary? We congratulated everyone and took photos and quickly left for the subpeak  and a snack. The panorama from the peak was magnificent, all aided by beautiful blue skies and the lack of clouds! The Allalinhorn is one of the most photogenic of the snow capped peaks in Switzerland!

I then lead the descent down from the Allalinhorn with bowed legs as advised by our guide Dominik! It wasn't too difficult but one of climbers had cramps, so we slowed down. We eventually reached the starting point, so the total time for the ascent and descent was over 5 hours. A drink at the bar was most welcomed.  And our guide, Dominik also invited everyone to a concert occurring that evening that he was participating in as a yodeler!

My second port of call in Switzerland was Grindelward where I was planning an attempt on the Monch (4107M). Unfortunately, the weather wasn't good and I didn't get to climb another 4000M peak this trip.

I did get to climb the Eiger - Rotstock via ferrata on the west flank of the Eiger North Face when weather was satisfactory during a morning window. I took the train to the Eigergletscher station (2320M) and hiked on the Eiger trail and turned right at the Eiger signpost to the start of the VF.  After donning VF equipment, I had to scramble on rocks to reach the start of the VF and the 6 ladders. Then had to scramble on protected and unprotected sections of layered rock until I sighted the former opening of the Rotstock train station now long decommissioned. Eventually reached the sub peak saddle, then scrambled to get to the Rotstock peak and Cross. I was also joined by 3 other climbers some 10 minutes later. Took photos of the peak and of the Eiger west flank. Amazed at the proximity of the Eiger north face west flank!

Advised by the other climbers on the best route for the descent. It involved descent on scree, snow and some downclimbing on fixed ropes to the Eigergletscher station. Sounded more dangerous than the ascent! But I was able to manage the descent and just followed the blue/white markers. In all, the total ascent and descent from/to the station took under 5 hours. Overall, the VF wasn't very difficult but the location on the Eiger north face and its historical setting made it a very interesting climb!

The weather became fine on my last day in Grinelward and I wanted to see the Jungfraujoch before going to Zurich to visit my sister and family. It is a very impressive achievement and has undergone incredible redevelopment since I last saw it some 40 years ago!

Hiking to base of Allalinhorn mountain 

Guide Dominik heading to start of climb

Team heading to start of climb

Other climbing teams heading up

Waiting our turn to start the zig zag climb

Summit Cross in sight

Team summits Allalinhorn 4027M

Team summits Allalinhorn

Crossing summit ridge back to minor peak

Lunch on minor peak

Distant views of Pollux climbed 2 years ago from summit.

Danger of crevasses

Eiger North Face Climb and Rotstock VF Climb. Source: Summitpost.org

Start of Rotstock VF climb from Eigergletscher station

Sign at the Eiger North Face

Ladders at the start of the Rotstock VF at the west flank of the Eiger

VF Equipment on and ready to go!

VF Lanyard with double karabiners clipped on the self belay line!

 Ladders on the VF

Climbing on unprotected stratified rock

Former Rotstock train station long closed

Rotstock station in its heyday. Source: Grindelward Museum

Former observation deck from the Rotstock station

Protected scrambling

Upward traverse towards the summit saddle

Some scrambling to get to the Rotstock summit

On the Rotstock summit  2663M

An acrobatic climber on the Rotstock summit!

Photo of the west flank of the Eiger North Face from Rotstock

Photo of the west flank of the Eiger North Face from Rotstock

Start of the descent from Rotstock on rocky scree.

Snow obstacle encountered on the descent

Ropes used for downclimbing from the Rotstock

Typical stratified rock encountered on descent

A view of the Monch from the Jungfraujoch

A crowded Sphinx on the Jungfraujoch.

They sell foodstuffs at Beijing airport just like books!

[harnessblueadventures]

MARCH 2014: MT BATUR VOLCANO CLIMB BALI INDONESIA

I spent a wonderful week in Bali during March with my wife Leila. Leila had some time available before the publication of her debut novel Chasing Shadows by Random House Australia in May. Refer http://www.randomhouse.com.au/books/leila-yusaf-chung/chasing-shadows-9780857983305.aspx

We spent time in Nusa Dua and Ubud and wanted to do do an excursion together that was both different and adventurous! We settled on the popular Mt Batur (1717M) volcano climb that was being advertised on many websites in Bali. Mt Batur last erupted in 1968. We booked the tour via the internet and waited expectantly but got worried when it rained incessantly the day before. Leila sms'd the tour operator about rain contingencies and promptly got a response "Don't worry, it doesn't rain in the mountains!"

The following morning, we were picked up by our tour operator at 1.30AM, and headed off to the mountains in incessant rain. We arrived at the starting point also in incessant rain. We waited for the rain to abate and finally set off for the volcano with rain coats and headlamps. The two guides and the tour operator were impressed with our technology which included headlamps, walking poles, altitude meter and leather gloves!

After a steady climb of over 2 hours we reached a viewing hut via a sandy then rocky path. Here we had breakfast of egg and bread and met the other participants, including the Indian honeymooners, the wife with a black eye, who posed for simulated action photos, the Canadians who were just amazed that we were there, and the Singaporean family with their precocious 10YO kid. We visited the crater of the volcano near the Mt Batur sign and fed the monkeys that were everywhere. I noticed that some monkeys were warming their butts by putting their posteriors into the crater fissures! The guides also showed us the temple situated in the crater. The Balinese treat all their temples and mountains with great respect. Everyone decided to return to the starting point as it was still raining and the path was slippery.  On the way back, the guides advised us to avoid walking into webs of a deadly spider which looked very similar to the St John's Cross spider. Apparently, you have 30 minutes to take the anti-venom should you get bitten!

Finally, we got back to the hotel room around 1.30PM, had lunch and then enjoyed our spa treatment!  A nice reward for going on our enjoyable but damp excursion! 

Mt Batur from the viewing hut

Monkeys on the Mt Batur sign

At the temple near the crater

Views of Mt Batur at end of hike

[harnessblueadventures]

MARCH 2013: MT KINABALU (4095M) CLIMB BORNEO AND DESCENT ON WORLD'S HIGHEST VIA FERRATA

My latest adventure was a summit attempt of Mount Kinabalu in Borneo coupled with a descent involving the World’s highest Via Ferrata as recorded in the Guinness Book of Records.  Mt Kinabalu is located in the Sabah region of Malaysia and has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status.

I decided I would do some climbing closer to home in Asia, this year as I was unable to be in Europe during the summer climbing season. The climb was on a granite mountain in sub alpine conditions and involved an ascent on rock towards Low's Peak at 4095M, followed by a via ferrata down climb and traverse.

My Mt Kinabalu climb was organized over 3 days, as follows:- Day One: Acclimatisation day at 1500M altitude at Kundasang Borneo Day Two: Climb 1423M to Base Camp Pendant Hut (3289M)

Day Three: Climb 806M to Low's peak summit (4095M), then descend by Via Ferrata down climb and traverse to Basecamp and thence hike down to starting point. So for day, that included an ascent of 806M and a descent of  2229M!

CLIMB COMMENTARY:

On day two, I met my local mountain guide at Kinabalu National Park HQ. Her name was NANI and she was a diminutive woman of at most 40Kg and 150cm in height! However, looks can be deceiving and she proved to be both fit and strong!

She got me to lead along the rocky upward trail to basecamp at the Pendant Hut. It was hard going and I needed to rest occasionally to catch my breath. The rain eventually came and my pants and pack were wet and therefore getting heavier despite my raincover. Eventually reached basecamp after 4 hours 40 minutes. Legs feeling sore and stiff! That night I was unable to sleep as there was too much noise and light in our dormitory.

The following morning, I departed in darkness with NANI at 2.45AM for the 806M ascent summit attempt, equipped with headlamp and helmet. Almost immediately, we encountered a traffic jam! There were a lot of climbers blocking the summit trail! So NANI started overtaking and weaving around the other climbers. It was getting tiring! The rocky sides of the mountain were getting steeper as indicated by the appearance of fixed ropes to assist in the climbing. After about 3 hours, we could sight Low's peak in the distance. Eventually, we had to scramble up the peak but to my amazement there were at least 50 other climbers hogging access to the peak! So had to bide our time before I was able to take a photo on the peak, and yes, you can't see the peak because of the other climbers! Crazy! Never-the-less, it was a great moment to reach the summit! And what a beautiful sight after dawn broke and we could see the surrounding panorama of peaks and the clouds!

NANI and I quickly left the peak as I had to meet my Via Ferrata guide John for the VF traverse and downclimb back to basecamp. The VF was rated as Assez Difficile (AD). Here in Malaysia, they use a belay rope in addition to a VF lanyard for safety! It took about 4 hours to complete and was great fun, and included 3 bridges. My guide was taking all the photos and kept me entertained!  I  didn't find it too difficult but my arms started to tire when coupled with all of the other climbing activities on the day.  

NANI and I departed from basecamp for the long bumpy down trail hike back to the Timpohon Gate, the starting point of our climb. It was the only section that I used a walking pole. I was favouring my right knee! NANI noticed and offered to carry my rucksack but I declined! After 3 and half hours, we eventually reached the starting point. My legs were stiff and sore!  We had finally completed a total of 2229M ascent and 2229M descent over the past 2 days!

SULU INSURGENCY:

While we we were on the road to the mountains, our bus had to go through a road block mounted by armed soldiers. Our guide explained that the military were looking for Sulu insurgents from the Phillipines who had entered Sabah. On completion of the Mt Kinabalu climb, I was able to learn that over 200 Sulu insurgents had entered Eastern Sabah during February and had killed a number of local police. It transpired that the Malaysian security forces had undertaken a sweep and killed over 50 insurgents around Lahad Datu.

From the newspapers, I was able to piece together that the descendants of Jamal Kiram, the former Sultan of North Borneo had sent the insurgents to Sabah to stake a claim on Sabah. It appears that the former Sultan had cessioned Sabah to the British North Borneo Company outright in 1878 for an annual cession payment. I also learnt that the eastern region of Sabah accommodates around 800,000 Suluks, of the same ethnicity as the insurgents from southern Philippines. Many Suluks were afforded residence in Sabah during the armed struggle between the Moros and the Phillippines government.

I was advised to stay in Kota Kinabalu and not visit the Sandakan animal sanctuaries on the Borneo east coast.  There were also rumours on social media that some 700 Suluk and/or Moro militants from the Philippines would invade KK but nothing eventuated. 

OVERALL:

The Mt Kinabalu climb was a great experience, physically demanding on par with my previous alpine climbs but lower technicality. Most painful part was the downhill descent on the rocky trail to the start. Most tiring was the 1423M climb to basecamp with full and wet backpack! The Sulu insurgency added a sense of adventure as well as sadness to the trip.  Hope it gets resolved peacefully soon!

  Climb Map

On the upward climb to basecamp

My mountain guide NANI

The rocky uphill trail to basecamp

Pendant Hut (3289M) Basecamp for Via Ferrata Climbers

Dreaming of a warm bed and hot shower at basecamp?

In reality, our dormitory in the basecamp at Pendant Hut (3289M) plus cold shower to boot!

Predawn approach near Low's peak after 2.45AM start

Near Low's Peak (4095M) just before dawn

Sitting in front of the sign on Low's peak (4095M)

Pandemonium as access to Low's Peak blocked by too many climbers.

Adjoining St John's Peak (4090M) from Low's Peak

Passing Donkey Ears Peak (4054M) on descent from Low's Peak

Passing South Peak (3933M) on descent towards the Via Ferrata

Start of the descent by via ferrata to basecamp

Traversing a rock wall on the via ferrata

Traversing above the clouds on the via ferrata

Downclimbing on via ferrata towards basecamp

Crossing a planked suspension bridge on the via ferrata

Crossing a three wire suspension bridge

Pausing on via ferrata above the clouds

Preparing for downclimb on VF

Crossing on a two wire suspension bridge on VF

Downtown Kota Kinabalu

Hotel Lobby of the Horizon Hotel Jalan Pantai

Sunday markets in Kota Kinabalu, Borneo

[harnessblueadventures]

JULY 2011: PIGNE DE LA LE (3400M) WEISSMIES (4023M) SWISS ALPS SWITZERLAND

  Feeling the desire to learn more about alpine mountaineering, I embarked on a week’s summit and skills tour with ISM based in Leysin. To acclimatise in Leysin beforehand, I did some via ferrata climbing on the VF Plan Praz and Tour D’Ai that were classified as difficult in view of some overhangs and/or steep sections. However, they didn’t turn out to be too challenging, and I enjoyed the beautiful views offered from the top of Tour D’Ai. 

I joined the alpine mountaineering tour with 7 other climbers and our 2 alpine guides Paulo from Italy and Andrew from Canada. The majority of activities would be around the Leysin and Saas Fee regions. The 2 guides were great in preparing us for the alpine climbs and equipping us with the necessary mountaineering skills, safety and rescue techniques. Our training for the climbs included rock climbing, rappelling, cramponing, rope and rescue techniques and hiking to our base camps at the Moiry hut and Almageller hut.

For our initial alpine climb of Pigne de La Le, I was partnered with Jan a 23YO German geology student. This climb was a mixed snow and rock ascent and required a lot of rock scrambling. Jan and I belayed each other up the rock faces. Again, fantastic views on the summit. Our total vertical ascent was 500M from the Moiry hut to the summit (3400M). The climb wasn’t tiring and we were able to practice crevasse rescue after the climb.

Our main objective for the week was the summit attempt of the Weissmies in Saas Fee from the Almageller hut base camp. This would be a challenging climb requiring a vertical ascent of 1130M! We set off at 6am in cloudy and windy conditions, after a difficult night attempting to sleep in midst of incessant snoring by everyone!  Our group took the trail up to Zwischbergenpass, and thence onto the south ridge of the Weissmies.  The climb was on mixed snow and rock. I was roped up with Andrew our guide and Michael, also from Canada.  Climbing on the narrow summit ridge was quite exposed. We were the last team to reach the summit of Weissmies (4023M) after a five and a half hour climb.  From the top, the views were spectacular, and I noticed we were above the clouds which were shifting very quickly. Our descent was via the glacier and thence onto the Hohsaas cable car, after a glacier descent of 881M. I was starting to feel exhausted as Andrew was driving us to move quickly. Possibly due to the dangers of the overhanging  ceracs present? On return to Leysin, my legs felt like they were made of jelly.  This climb was the most exhausting that I have ever completed in my short mountaineering career!

The whole group on the summit of Pigne de la Le (3400M). I'm second from left.

Eating lunch near Pigne de la Le (Gruyere cheese on bread?)

Moiry hut, a typical base camp for our summit attempts

Drinks at the Moiry Hut base camp

A break during our uphill hike to the Almageller Hut, 2894M base camp for the Weissmies summit attempt.

The group successfully summited the Weissmies at 4023M

On the Weissmies summit with Jan "the Axe murderer"

    Late lunch (Gruyere cheese yuck!) at Hohsaas after the Weissmies climb

Having lunch break during rockclimbing training near Leysin

Our guide Paulo on the zip line on the via ferrata near Saas

Suspension bridge on Planpraz Via Ferrata

Tour D'Ai site of the Via Ferrata in La Berneuse above Leysin

[harnessblueadventures]

JULY 2010: BREITHORN (4164M) ZERMATT SWISS ALPS SWITZERLAND

  After the Via ferrata trip in the Dolomites, I took a train to Zermatt via Milan. In Milan, I was accosted by 2 females. I felt a hand touch my front thigh to which I instantly turned around and snarled! The 2 females (bleach blonded and tattooed) quickly retreated when they realized that I was ready for their pickpocket attempt! In Zermatt, I joined a 6 person team to attempt a summiting of the Breithorn mountain which is next to the Matterhorn. We travelled up to Klein Matterhorn by cable car and from there started our climb to the Breithorn. We were wearing crampons and all connected together by ropes and harnesses, so that if anyone fell or tripped on crevasses etc, the others were to stop anyone disappearing through the snow and ice. As we started climbing, I felt like I needed to go to the toilet! What a time to feel your constipation coming good! I gritted my teeth and held firm and kept going! After zig zagging up the mountain for what felt like an eternity, (particularly if you feel like going to the toilet) we finally reached and stood on the summit of the Breithorn at 4164 metres, and congratulated each other! The summit was this small piece of snow approx 5 metres x 2 metres, which suddenly felt so cold and windy. My hat fell off but our guide Manfred retrieved it. We had a snack just below the summit. The guide, Manfred got me to lead the descent (I was on the end of the tail going on the ascent) so that if anyone fell he would see and anchor the fall! In the early afternoon, we finally reached the return cable car station and finally, I raced to the toilet! Whew!

After the climb I took the glacier express from Zermatt to St Moritz.  Very panoramic trip which included a 3 course meal amongst the rolling views of mountains and glaciers. Played tourist in St Moritz and noted the abundance of high end hotels and Rolls Royce cars! From there, I spent a few lovely days in Zurich visiting my sister and her family. A nice way to cap off this trip!

  Teams of cramponed climbers heading towards the Breithorn summit

On the summit of Breithorn. My hat blew off but was retrieved by Manfred.

Other climbers approach as we lunch on the summit

Teams of climbers heading down

A high end hotel in St Moritz with two Rolls Royces at the front.

[harnessblueadventures]

MARCH, 2009 JEBEL TOUBKAL (4167M) WINTER CLIMB, HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS MOROCCO

For my second mountaineering trip, I chose the Jebel Toubkal winter climb in the High Atlas mountains in Morocco. The climb would be predominantly cramponing on snow. The one week expedition included 4 climbers, 2 local mountain guides, a cook and access to muleteers and porters. Our luggage went by mules part of the way and then by porters in the steep parts; these porters didn’t wear crampons nor use ice axes at all in the slippery snow conditions: Amazing!

The first objective was a snow trek to our base camp, at the French Alpine Shelter (3207M). In the afternoon, we practiced self arrest and belay techniques using our ice axes. Very important as we were climbing without ropes! On the day of the summit attempt, the weather was cloudy, overcast and cold! It was really hard and tiring walking/climbing in such cold conditions. I froze and my nose was runny, and I had trouble catching my breath! Never-the-less, it was exhilarating being around 4000M in altitude; The mountains and landscape were really breathtaking. The other team members were also knackered as well but very satisfied that they had conquered the highest mountain in North Africa! On the following day, there was a snow storm and the refuge was partially covered after all night snow, so our planned summit attempt of Jebel Ouanoukrim, a challenging 4088M peak was abandoned for fear of avalanches. As consolation, the team undertook a leisurely 3 hour snow trek in the surrounding hills. We then took a day and a half to trek downhill to return to sunny Marrakesh.   On our return to Marrakech, we went walking again but it’s tiring dodging the vehicles. I revisited the Jemma el fna souk; and saw all the snake charmers, monkeys, noisy ambience, fortune tellers, and the guy selling old dentures and thousands of missing teeth, all are still there! And so passed a few pleasant afternoons, sipping mint tea and eating baclava style sweets.  I was also able to practice the occasional french, and noted how the local youths could snap at their former colonial masters. On several occasions, these youths would call a french woman "salop" should they refuse their sales offer!

Our group trekking towards the foot of the mountains

Our luggage going up part of the way via the mules and the muleteer

Larsson, one of our local Berber mountain guides

As we ascend, snow appears so we have to wear crampons

Typical alpine conditions that we go through to get to base camp

We reached base camp at 3207M in readiness for the summit attempt

Scenery outside the basecamp

A team of climbers setting off for the summit

A brief pause on summit attempt day of Jebel Toubkal

Other members summit Jebel Toubkal at 4167M

Planned summit attempt of Jebel Ouanoukrim abandoned. Consolation trek.

Mountain scenery on our consolation hike

Descent of the mountain and return to Marrakesh

Approaching civilisation Imlill on our descent.

Cute goat that we saw on the descent towards Marrakesh

The souk and the Jemma el fna square in Marrakesh

Typical street view in Marrakesh

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NOVEMBER, 2007: SINGLE CONE MOUNTAIN (2319M), QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND

I went on my first mountain climb with my 18YO son Daniel.  We spent an exciting 2 days with our mountain guide Bruce Hasler learning the basics of mountaineering and attempting to summit Single Cone, the tallest peak in Queenstown. In view of the perfect weather, Bruce decided we should climb the mountain the first day. There you have it: two complete novices climbing a mountain with the help of on the job training! The climb was a mixed snow, ice and rock ascent and it took about 9 hours to climb and descend from the mountain. Toward the summit the climbing became more technical and included a steep couloir of snow and ice that we had to climb using front pointing crampons and ice axes. Several times, we both felt terrified of the exposure and height but I suppose in reality the risks were limited in view that we were constantly belayed by our guide. On the summit we enjoyed the fantastic views and ate our canned butter chicken. It was a difficult but satisfying day and we learnt many new skills and achieved more than we had ever expected. We both felt absolutely exhausted no doubt exacerbated by the heavy backpacks that we wore to carry our climbing equipment, viz crampons, ice axes, helmet, harness, anchors etc.    On the second day, we spent a most enjoyable and less tiring day doing abseiling and rock climbing on crags around Queenstown. The activity required that Daniel and I work as a team to belay each other. Great bonding activity for father and son. Daniel was stuck on the rock climb  but Bruce was able to coach him to finish the climb. It’s always easier to climb as the second climber.

After our mountaineering adventure, we visited Milford Sound by boat, and then spent a day doing a glacier trek on the Franz Josef Glacier. It was so easy compared with the exertion required for our mountain climb! We both really enjoyed our first mountaineering experience!

Looking up the sheer (and terrifying) snow wall that we had to climb

Father and son bonding on the summit of Single Cone (2319M)

Daniel and the mountainous terrain

Watching our guide down climb the notorious snow wall

Abseiling from a crag wall near Queenstown

Father and son cramponing on a trek on the Franz Josef Glacier

Cruising on the beautiful Milford Sound