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Planning A Day Boating in Elizabeth Harbour

Over the years we have helped rental guests at Harbour View plan a days boat rental in Elizabeth Harbour.  So if you are planning to enjoy a day on the water exploring the delights of Elizabeth Harbour you may find the following story helpful in getting the most out of your trip.

Minns Water Sports have a fleet of boats ranging in size from 15ft to 22ft.  Most of the smaller boats are Boston Whalers. A catamaran hull with a 50 horse outboard. They are based in George Town and after a briefing, which includes anchoring, limits of travel and safety equipment, you self drive from the pond into the main Harbour. Each boat has a hand held radio, an anchor and safety vests and a map.

One thing you need to know before you set off is the times of low tide and high tide.  Knowing the time of low tide enables you to decide in which order you visit the many attractions the Harbour has to offer.  Let’s assume that low tide is around 9am. In that case we recommend you head East down the Harbour, passing between the colored buoys ( red right returning) that mark the gap in the coral reef halfway down the Harbour. Keep going for about half an hour till you reach the sandbar on the West side of Man O War Cay.  Anchor the boat in the shallows on the eastern side of the sandbar and explore  this pristine sandy stretch for about half a mile.

If you find starfish on the sand put them back in the water.

Taken enough photos?  Let’s up anchor, circle round the southern end of the sand bar. Always remember that the paler the color of the water, the shallower the depth. Now with a quick check to the map, head for Fowl Cay.  This Cay is the Eastern most of the Cays that surround Elizabeth Harbour, and its also the best snorkeling area.  Upon arrival attach your bow line to one of the mooring buoys. Do NOT anchor. If you anchor your anchor will almost certainly damage the coral.  Plus it may get stuck and you could have trouble retrieving it. So snorkel to your hearts content in the gap between Fowl Cay and Guana Cay.  The area is sometimes subject to a swell from the Ocean so if your snorkel skills are limited you could wait to the next stop.

snorkeling in Exuma

Untie from the mooring buoy and head West staying several hundred yards offshore. always watch out for dark patches which are probably coral heads. The grey patches you also see are usually turtle grass or just shadows of clouds. You get acclimatized to read the water after a few trips. After Guana Cay the next island is Elizabeth Cay.  As you motor, look over to your left and find those red and green buoys you passed between earlier. This time motor over there slowly and anchor in sand. Not in the channel. Now you are in about 4 to 7 ft of calm water easy for snorkeling to see the many brightly colored fish of all shapes and sizes.

Sand dollar

Back over towards Elizabeth Cay. At the western end is another shallow patch with ankle deep water that is worth exploring and hunt for sand dollars.  These circular creatures live in and on the sand. The live ones are grey. Leave them alone. Find the white ones, they are dead and make a nice decoration. Problem is they are fragile (paint them with clear Elmers Glue to preserve them). 

Deans Blue Hole Bahamas

Up anchor and head West to the hurricane holes.  These are on the South side of Stocking Island, and as the name implies, this is where boats would anchor when a hurricane was forecast.  Two areas of water surrounded with hill and just a narrow entrance.  Motor into the western hole and you will be faced with about 30 offshore cruising boats that owners have parked while they fly home for some reason. Check the map to locate a “Blue Hole”.  This is a vertical cave which extends out to the Ocean. It’s not safe to dive as there is a strong current.Blue Holes are always swarming with fish in clear water.

It is worth noting that a large part of Elizabeth Harbour is part of the Moriah Harbour Cay National Park.

Ready for lunch?  You have several options.  There are four options on Stocking Island.

But let’s leave that for another story. Along with ideas of how to spend your boating afternoon.

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Stocking Island Exuma

Stocking Island is the largest of the string of islands that line the northern shore of Elizabeth Harbour. It is partly because of these islands that Elizabeth Harbour is so well protected making the Harbour safe and minimizing flood risks for the islands capital George Town.

Stocking Island extends for just four miles running North West to South East. At its western end lies Conch Cut, the entrance from the Ocean into the Harbour. The western half of the island is unspoiled woodland with beautiful unspoiled beaches on both the oceanside and the harbourside.

Midway along the southern shore is a dock where you land if you wish to climb the steep hill to reach the monument.  This monolith was built back in the 1700s to indicate to passing ships that there was a safe Harbour and access to bulk sea salt. The salt was needed to preserve the meat and fish onboard, making salt a valuable commodity. There is also a pathway to the Oceanside where lobsters can be found amongst the coral reefs.

Cruising sailboats Exuma

As you travel East you come to the areas that have been more developed. Partly because of the beautiful soft sand beaches and partly because of the “hurricane holes”.  These natural phenomenon are two areas where a narrow entrance leads to landlocked “ponds” perfect for hiding many boats when a hurricane approaches.  These hurricane holes are also useful for snow birds who leave their boats, in the care of locals, during the summer months.

This is the area where the water taxis take visitors from the mainland to either St Frances Resort or Chat & Chill Bar & Grill. Here you find a line small boats and dinghies anchored in the shallows while their owners enjoy the camaraderie and food. One speciality is conch salad. Made with chopped fresh conch meat with onions tomatoes and squeezed orange and lemon juice.. delicious !  Because of this popular dish the shoreline is also the home to a group of sting rays, as tame as tame can be.  Put a small piece of conch meat in your palm and hold still just below the water  and they will take it from you. These graceful creatures have skin like velvet. They are black on  the top and white underneath. An experience not to be missed.

Next stop on our journey eastward is to Peace & Plenty Beach Bar. The P&P, as its fondly known is the original hotel in Exuma, located in George Town.  The beach bar is their get-a-way  where they ferry their guests, and anyone else who want to explore, for a day on a soft sand beach, with a full bar and barbecue.

Then we come to the last property on Stocking Island.  Kahari Resort.  This is a high end hotel resort with a restaurant open to non residents.  The accommodation is in thatched huts. Kahari has both an indoor restaurant and an outdoor one. Again the water taxi can provide access.

From there on eastwards the island is as God made it, natural palms, mangroves and spotless beaches. So when you make your Exuma trip don’t miss a day over on Stocking Islands, a day not to be missed. Stay at Harbour View for more information

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Crab Cay Exuma

The largest island within Elizabeth Harbour is Crab Cay. The appeal of Crab Cay is partly its location. It is protected by a string of offshore islands so hurricane surge is not a problem. The many small soft powder sand beaches that dot the shores of the 200 plus acre island shores invite you to take advantage of the wonderful, warm climate of The Bahamas.

Back in the late 1700s the Walker family needed to leave their home in Eastern North America because they had supported the British, the losers in the American war of independence. The family, along with their slaves, sailed to set up home on the land provided to them by the King of England, on The Exumas, a group of islands in the central Bahamas.  The Walkers  set up home on the island of Crab Cay inside Elizabeth Harbour.  Their properties were built using local stone.  As was the custom, the kitchen was a separate building from the living quarters. This was the practice due to the risk of kitchens burning down due to the presence of open fires, plus the need to keep the heat of cooking away from the living area. They tried to develop their land by growing cotton but after some years they gave up and moved on.

The ruins of their home still exist to this day.

After the end of World War II, the story goes that a group of very wealthy individuals decided that they wanted to invest their funds in land. Not just any land, but in tropical islands. So they chose a trusted member of the group and he spent some years traveling the globe and buying tropical hotspots. After their targets were met the purchaser was rewarded by the group by allowing him to choose two islands as a reward for his diligence.  He chose Crab Cay and Elizabeth Cay, both island being at Elizabeth Harbour In Exuma.

Fast forward 40+ years and the tourism industry is booming. Wealthy investors led by Michael Jordan descend on Exuma with a view to buying and developing Crab Cay.  Word reaches the press that the asking price is ten million.  The investors decided to walk away, but the government heard the rumors and informed the island's owner that according to their records he had not paid the property tax which had accumulated, a figure reaching millions of dollars. The Crab Cay owners was therefore forced to put the property on the market for sale.

Eventually the island sold to the Murphy family. One of, if not the largest pig farming enterprises in the US. The Murphys put together a consortium with CN Luxury and drew up plans for Crab Cay.  By 2007 they intended to build a world class development, with a hotel, and Italian style hub with luxury restaurants, spa sports facilities and high end shops. then high end multi-million dollar homes spread along the shoreline. Then, of course there was to be a major marina, capable of taking the world's mega yachts. The whole project was planned to be "the pre-eminent island destination in The Caribbean". The plans were eventually passed and work began on the dredging for the marina.  Work progressed for some time then came to a halt and the project stopped.

All that remains is a beautiful bridge, built in the Italian style, which joins Crab Cay to the mainland of Great Exuma. Known locally as "the bridge to nowhere".

And that, unfortunately, is where we are today !  Waiting for the next chapter to be written on this beautiful island with great potential, Crab Cay.

If you want to visit the ruin of the Walker family, or cruise round Crab Cay we would welcome you at Harbour View for a vacation, just visit our website for details and loads of other stories about our vacation paradise .

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"Big Noch's" Bar & Restaurant in Exuma

Big Noch is the nickname of an Exuma taxi driver and owner of the bar and restaurant of the same name in Rolle Town Exuma.

The bar has been open for some years but more recently it has gained a good reputation for their food.  Like many bars on island, it started catering to the local Bahamians, but now its appeal has spread to the tourist trade.  Their dining area is small and very basic (but adequate).  Their big growth is in  their  take out trade.

Based just a two minute drive from Harbour View, our rental guests have phoned Patrina and placed an order for collection some 20 minutes later.  The fare is traditional Bahamian with fresh produce including fish and lobster in season.

As an example, cracked conch is priced at $15. A peppered steak is $15. Your options range from chicken, pork, some curried dishes and fresh caught fish, conch and lobster.

While Big Nochs does not have a seaview it certainly is convenient to have some fresh food available on our doorstep.  Give Big Nochs a try. 242 345 5013 and place an order with Patrina.

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Pretty Molly Bay, Favorite Exuma Beach.

Which beach is the best in Exuma? I suggest that Pretty Molly Bay is top of the long list.

Pretty Molly Bay is located on the northern shore of Little Exuma, just before Forbes Hill when motoring East. It has long been one of our favorite beaches. Its charm is the fact that it is a curved soft sand pristine beach with rocky outcrops at the sides. So its shape provides protection from the Ocean and the water remains a calm blue color even when the wind is strong.

Years ago there was a plan to build three cottages on land by the bay. Construction started but never finished and over time the half finished cottages deteriorated and building debris littered the approach to the beach.

Well now for the good news !   The ground from the Queens Highway to Pretty Molly Beach has now been cleared.  Now there is a designated parking area, and a footpath that leads directly to this picturesque location.

I can guarantee that as you walk down the short path and Pretty Molly Bay's beach comes into view, it will get a "Wow" and have you reaching for the camera.

Be aware that all beaches in Exuma are open to the public from the Ocean to the high water mark.   Private property starts above the high water mark.  So explore the many beaches that Exuma has to offer and see if you agree that Pretty Molly Bay is the best.

The beach is just a five minute drive from Harbour View rental property.

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New Restaurant in Exuma

WOW !  That is the reaction as you drive over the brow of the hill and Blu On The Water first comes into view. 

If I was given complete freedom on choosing a location for a restaurant it would be right where Blu On The Water is located, it’s that perfect !

Blu is the brainchild of Ty and Sam (with a little help from their daughter Kylee) who have been catering to Exuma customers for some years. First  at what used to be Sam Grey’s restaurant at the marina in George Town, then later over on Stocking Island at Lumina Point.  Now they have their own location.

So Blu On The Water is in Rolle Town.  Between Master Harbour and Rolle Town settlement, about five miles East of George Town. As you arrive at Blu your reaction will also be “Wow”.  The view that faces you is the restaurant on your left, but your eyes will be drawn to the Ocean. It’s truly is a World class setting,  it’s stunning. To your right is Man O War Cay and directly in front is one of Exuma’s favorite tourist attractions, the Large sandbar that appears at low tide and extends for about half a mile. Left of the sandbar the Ocean colors change from white to pale blue to darker blue, as your eye travels westward you look into Elizabeth Harbour and its tantalizing line of offshore islands. ….The view is simply  stunning !

Having taken the obligatory photos, it’s time to turn you attention to the restaurant.  As you enter this new building you will be greeted by the friendly smiling staff and shown to one of dozen or so tables, all with views of the Ocean. Sip your favorite cocktail or a cold beer while you study the menu. The cuisine is international fare and prepared in the brand new kitchen under the watchful eye of your host Ty.

Blu on the Water is open daily from 11.30 through till 10 pm. I personally recommend you pick a time when the light allows you to fully appreciate the view. If you want a quality souvenir of your visit, there are tee shirts and labelled Tiki insulated mugs.

If you are staying with us at Harbour View then you are a five minute drive away.

Ty and Sam we wish you every success in your new venture. Phone [phone]

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Nelson Ranger. Exuma Photographer

Nelson Alexander Ranger, the owner of IMAGES by Alexander, Exuma’s best known photographer, is also a strong voice and advocate of positive actions that  effect the Out Islands of The Bahamas and Exuma in particular. His Facebook page is avidly followed with great interest by over 5,000 viewers, many of whom live on our island paradise.

Born in Hatchett Bay Eleuthera, he moved with his parents to Exuma as a youngster and grew up in The Ferry settlement on Little Exuma.

After leaving school he started as an interior designer in Nassau, while spending as much time as possible on the golf course perfecting his new interest in golf.  By the age of 19 he won his first tournament as an amateur and set his sights on a golf career.

Nelson

With the help of a scholarship from the Lyford Foundation and The Bahamas Golf Federation, Nelson studied at the Golf Academy and got a job at the prestigious Butch Harman Golf Academy with locations in Las Vegas and Freeport . Like all newbies, he started at the bottom rung, hand washing 1000s of golf balls each morning ready for the future stars to work on their game.

Nelson’s career, and his game, flourished, and took him to many prestigious clubs, like the Commonwealth Club in Virginia where he was Director of Instructions for 5 golf courses, the Ocean Club in Nassau, The Maddison Club in Palm Springs, Gozzer Ranch in Idaho, Yellow Stone Club in Montana and the Country Hills Club in Chicago where he worked in a total of 5 different states as a Golf Professional/ Director of Golf Operations. Eventually he returned to his Bahama roots and settled at The Four Seasons course here in Exuma as the Golf Director.

To give back for receiving so much, Nelson created the Nelson A. Ranger Scholarship Fund in Memory of Andrew and Kerry Bowe who introduced him to golf. This fund has assisted 11 Exumian high school graduates to college over the last 10 years that they have been functioning. He runs bi-weekly Golf and Tennis camps for kids 7-17, offers academic awards to encourage more educational excellence, host an annual Golf, Tennis, Reading, Music and Music camp as well as sponsor the annual Spelling Bee.

Throughout his golfing career Nelson had developed an interest in landscape photography, specializing in golf course landscapes.

The event that spurred his current career as professional photographer was the birth of his daughter Denell. He wanted a photographic record of her life, an interest that still inspires him today some 30 years later. Before long he was getting requests from family and friends to record their children, their daily events, their weddings. And so it grew to where he is today. Flitting from Exuma to other Bahamian islands, to the US, to photograph some of his old golfing buddies, to receiving bookings for celebs, sometimes not even knowing who it is till he arrives. For example the time he was hired to film the wedding of the drummer for the band Queen.

 Another time he set up his equipment and all he knew was it was a wedding. A famous celeb walks in in golf togs, introduces himself (which was hardly necessary as everybody recognized him), returns minutes later in full wedding attire,  snap, snap, snap, and the groom is back onto the golf course after a quick change.

So, if you have a special occasion coming up, be it a wedding, an anniversary, or just a souvenir of your vacation. I suggest you contact “IMAGES by Alexander".

The results will be hanging on your wall for years to come.

           Congratulations Nelson, you are an inspiration to the younger generation.

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New Peace and Plenty Beach Bar

A lot has been happening in Exuma this summer, especially at the Peace and Plenty Hotel.  Peace and Plenty Hotel is the oldest hotel in Exuma. Originally it was a customs house, then it was converted to a home for the Minns family.  Then the Minns sold to Stan Benjamin who with the help of his sons, converted the property into the hotel so many have come to enjoy.

It was about two years ago that the hotel changed hands. The new owners updated the property and have built a great reputation for hospitality and cuisine.

Then this summer we heard that Peace and Plenty had taken over the luxury resort on Stocking Island known as Lumina Point.  Currently closed for hurricane season and therefore receiving a new coat of paint and some modification ready for another busy season.

But it doesn't stop there !  Now P&P have taken over the eco friendly resort of Higgins Landing, again on Stocking Island.  While the cottages are being renovated, the new P&P Beach Bar has been constructed.  With a fully stocked bar  in the capable hands of Wizard, and the BBQ ably controlled by Jerome, and the whole enterprise managed by Greg.   So  great burgers and generous drinks at reasonable prices, What more could you want?  How about the softest, safest white sand beach you could imagine with sunbeds and umbrellas and rental paddleboards to explore.  All this in the protected calm waters of Elizabeth Harbour.

Take the water taxi or rent a boat from Minns Water Sports and have a fun day out, Sun, Sand, Music ( a little on the load side for my tastes, but I'm an old fart!).

So welcome to the Peace and Plenty Beach Bar, keep the Kaliks cold, the burgers hot and the beach pristine.  Good Luck Guys!   May you prosper and grow like Dora-Lee from years ago