Matthew Brady Photography at the Chicago History Museum
As many people can not go visit museums, curators are drawing our attention to some of the treasures in their collections. The Chicago History Museum is now open, but you should buy tickets online. If you can’t go, you can do some armchair viewing of the photographs taken by Matthew Brady who was active around the time of the US Civil War. Many of them are formal portrait of men who were politicians, but this one is of a woman who became famous for a terrible reason: Clara Harris was one of the guests of President Abraham Lincoln and his wife Mary Lincoln at Ford’s Theater the night that the president was murdered. April 14, 1865, Harris’ fiancee Major Henry Rathbone fought with John Wilkes Boothe, the assassin, and was badly injured. The two did marry, but Rathbone blamed himself for not preventing Lincoln’s death and eventually lost his mind, attacked and killed Clara. He was declared insane.
What has this got to do with fashion? Well, not much, but I didn’t see how I could share this photograph and not tell you the story of her life and death. 19th Century portraits are in interesting reality check on the other main source we have for fashion then, the colored fashion plate from Paris. Photography only had black and white at the time, so we have to then use letters and other written description to see if we can discover more. Here, Harris is wearing the kind of floor-length, hoop-skirted fashion that was common in 1865. The skirts were huge and took up yards and yards of cloth. This one is relatively plain despite the enormous geometric motif around the hemline. Fancier dresses for parties and such often had bows, ribbons, ruffles, etc. The waistlines were trim and the bodices cut close to the body, and this appears to be a tunic the echoes that silhouette. Embellished motifs trim the sleeves and the skirt of the tunic.
If this portrait of Clara Harris seems sober, even conceals much of her face, realize it had a serious purpose. It was commissioned to be used to gain subscribers for prints of a painting called “The Last Hours of Lincoln, 1865.” Photographed by Mathew B. Brady, Washington, D.C., 1865. That painting by Alonzo Chappel was a huge project and included many men who weren’t even in the room when Lincoln died. But it was a combination of of mourning art and political art.
For more on visiting the museum and what is on display, go here: https://images.chicagohistory.org/search/?searchQuery=mathew+brady&assetType=default
You can see more portraits by Brady in the Chicago History Museum if you go here: https://images.chicagohistory.org/search/?searchQuery=mathew+brady&assetType=default










