La cuenta There is no standardized system for determining the quality of a good straw hat. Some sellers use « grades » to referring to the quality of a hat, other use terms such as « Fino » or « Super Fino » in a quite vague, unprecise and even ambiguous way. Whether it is toquilla (so called panama, from the Carludovica palmata), parabuntal (from the Corypha umbraculifera) or wheat straw (Pontedera’s being among the finest and more suitable wheat for hat making) that you are thinking of, the more honest and accurate way of determining the quality of a straw hat is what Brent Black (who happens to be the more reliable seller of Panama hats I know), calls « la cuenta ». « La cuenta » is nothing else than the number of rows of weave in one square inch, which results from counting the number of vertical and horizontal rows and multiplying them. A hat under 300 is nothing special ; a hat from 300 to 900 is a noteworthy hat ; and a hat over 900 is a rare treasure. But it is not all about the fineness of the weaving. The quality of the weave (which encompasses the homogeneity of the straws selected for being weaved and the evenness of the resulting weaving) should also be taken into account when choosing a straw hat. I take pride in the straw I use and feel privileged to have the opportunity to work with some quite remarkable pieces, labors of love that took months to weave, some of them decades ago. Exceptionally woven straws, like parabuntals that can easily count over 900. Rare treasures that speak of an age old knowledge transmitted from hand to hand and eye to eye for generations. Join the hunting ! #analamata #hatmaker #handwoven #handsewn #straw #hats #artisanal #mto #mtm ##oldschoolhatmaking #homeiswhereyourhatis #lamatiereheureuse