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SHARP AS A TACK by Ashley Mount
Can you give us 3 tips about hooks that you would give to new carp anglers?
The evolution of carp fishing tackle over the last 25 years that I have been carp fishing has certainly moved at pace, however, the pattern of hooks that I use have pretty much remained a constant. Sure the materials used and Teflon finishes have moved today’s hooks on a notch, but the same old patterns stand the test of time.
For the uninitiated among us there is a vast array of patterns and manufacturers to choose from and is it vital to research which patterns lend themselves to which type of rig presentation, but that’s not what this piece is about. I want to pose a question that has only come into the equation in my own fishing in recent years with any real degree of consistency.
Can a hook straight out the packet be as sharp and efficient as one that is further sharpened by hand?
Chemically sharpened hooks direct from the manufacturer can be very efficient indeed in terms of sharpness however it is not the sharpness that for me is the acid test, but rather the tackiness of the hook that can only be achieved through intervention with an appropriate file. By this I mean during the sharpening process and testing against the skin on my hand or against my nail there is that eureka moment where you just know that the point is needle sharp to the extent that you wince on the final test.
My personal favourite pattern for much of my fishing is the Fox arma point SR hook which has a slightly out turned eye and a beaked point. I use a size 7 predominately but will move up to a six when the need arises. This pattern suits a number of rigs in my armoury of which the hinged stiff rig is one.
I also use this pattern in conjunction with a bottom bait in a very aggressive fluorocarbon stiff rig to very good effect, particularly abroad. As referred to at the beginning of this piece I haven’t deflected too much from my original hook choice as the Fox series 2 was one of my hooks of choice back on Darenth Tip lake in the 90’s.
My advice for new anglers would be to keep to 3 patterns of hook which offer some flexibility and cover all bases i.e. a wide gape out turned eye like the SR, Korda choddy or ESP stiff rigger for chods and pop up rigs, a good reliable curve shanked pattern like the arma point SSC for KD style or combi link pop up rigs etc. and finally a straight eye with straight or beaked point pattern for the more conventional bottom bait knotless knot type rigs with line aligner or as it is for surface fishing. I like the new Ace BBP hooks for this style of fishing.
Moving back on topic, I find the SR pattern of hook very easy to sharpen having experimented with close to 15 patterns from Atomic, Korda, Fox, ESP, Solar, Ashima and the like with varied success. I started collecting hooks that I would normally discard after use and would practice sharpening them to see how far I could take them before the hook’s design or strength were compromised. I watched lots of videos and demonstrations on the subject but found myself that working from the barb to the point was sufficient to get the result I wanted.
I bought the dedicated JAG sharpening set and would highly recommend this with particular reference to the vice which makes life so much easier when gripping the hook.
Everyone has their own way of sharpening but for me I start with the hook on its back in the vice with the eye at the top and look directly down on it. I pass three sweeps away from me from barb to point on the right side with the JAG metal file and then 3 sweeps on the opposite left side. I then turn the hook sideways on to me still in the vice and complete three sweeps over the top of the hook from barb to point so I can follow the beaked shape. I finish off with one sweep looking back down over the hook at a 45 degree angle on both sides to take off the ridge I have created.
I will check the point several times and then hone it with the sharpening stones supplied in the kit until perfect. Remember you are only trying to thin down the metal of the point and not change its integrity. It’s very important to avoid trying to create a point but rather follow the contours of the hook allowing the file and not brawn to do the work. I find a few hours during a week day night to hijack the dining room table and lay out all the equipment I need and tie up 5-10 rigs depending on my stock in readiness for the next session.
Having posed the question I guess you know my answer by now and I firmly believe that sharpening my hooks have caught me as much as 25% more fish over the past 4 seasons.
This I believe has been achieved by the extra conversion rate in pickups to landed fish. I have read that the sharpening burrs the metal and as such provides better grip and anti-ejection properties however I’m not totally convinced myself as of yet.
I Vaseline the hook points after sharpening as they will corrode and burn over time in the water if left bare which I believe counteracts the gripping effect. The practice of sharpening can cost slightly more as you do make errors regardless of experience and points do turn over a lot after fish but I believe the extra bite to landed ratio is worth the small expense, particularly when fishing for big fish in lower stocked waters.
So in conclusion I would learn to utilise these 3 patterns of hooks with a small portfolio of trusted rigs, start to get into the habit of religiously checking the hook point. How often do people take 3 or 4 casts to get their rig into the correct position but not check the point each time? It’s a very good habit to get into and one which will catch you more fish for very little effort. Finally sharpen those hooks. Whether it’s 2am on a pitch black winter’s night or the height of summer, attention to detail is what will set you apart from every other angler. Even the greenest of anglers can master the art very quickly with a little practice and give themselves a distinct edge.
This article was seen first on CC Moore’s Bait Blog