#insta4

[aidenoconnell]

@aidenoconnell posted a new photo

📍Napa, @lucifitzgerald​

122 likes, 23 comments

kitkatbennett: this is so cute 💕 siobhanoconnell: hi luci, you can keep him there 😁 robboconnell: nice

[aidenoconnell]

@aidenoconnell posted a new photo

Three girls walk into a pumpkin patch.... 🎃 ( @lucifitzgerald )

135 likes, 27 comments

kitkatbennett: it’s hard out here being a pumpkin model 💁🏻‍♀️ siobhanoconnell: i’m only a little jealous. hi luci! maliajane: i love this so much!! 🥰 great photography skills babe.

[echteliebe-skijumping]

// Neven via Instagram

[makedestroy]

documentation of casting process

After considering wax, gypsum plaster and resin I've decided to use Procast which is a non-toxic polyurethane resin. This material is safe to work with unlike some other resin types. I chose Procast because it has a simple 1:1 weight mix ratio, it finishes well with paint or can be combined with pigment powder, and it cures quickly in about 30-60 min.

There was a problem when pouring the second half of my Pinkysil mould because we used a spray release agent instead of vaseline. Rather than splitting apart the two halves were firmly welded together. This was overcome by cutting the mould open along the seam with a blade... essentially a one part mould after all but not a waste of time as I've learnt the two part mould making process.

As for the casting process, it has been quick and easy. First the inside of the mould is sprayed with release agent. Then using a soft brush I coat the inside with a metallic pigment which is like a very fine dust that sticks well to the silicone surface. I sandwich the mould between two wood offcuts which have been cut to size and fasten tightly with rubber bands. This is to stop the inside of the mould from warping and create a tight seal.

Part A and Part B of the resin are mixed by weight (since the volume is not the same for both) and a small amount of pigment is mixed in also. The mix is poured into the mould and left to cure, and then it is easy to pop out and make another one. The silicone has picked up a lot of detail making it obvious where I have plugged the original object with plasticine but I'm really happy with the shiny gold finish achieved by painting the inside of the mould and adding to the resin mix.

I noticed that some of the castings are producing small bubbles of trapped air along the top edge so have been extra careful with pouring and tapping the mould to prevent this from continuing. The resin has expanded in the mould during curing producing a knob where the pouring hole is, this will have to be sanded down.

[danilostewart7]

View this post on Instagram

#aovivo #irma #rock #instacut #instagram #bichinho #ilike #ilove #instalove #instalike #instacat #instagood #instanight #insta4 #instalife #instabeautiful #instarock #tagsforlike #likelove (em Duque de Caxias - 25 de Agosto)

[makedestroy]

documentation of mould making process

For the final assignment I have chosen to create a silicone mould which will be used to create multiple castings of a cassette tape either in wax or gypsum plaster. I chose to make a two part mould to retain the pair of holes which make the tape easy to recognise as an object. This process is slightly lengthier than creating a one part mould but the base object I'm using is simple.

Firstly the cassette tape I'm using as my base was unspooled and the wheels wheels taken out of place. All holes were plugged with plasticine and smoothed over with tools to prevent Pinkysil silicone getting inside the tape, which would make the base impossible to remove from the centre of the cured mould.

The cassette was then embedded in a plasticine base approximately 20mm deep with a 20mm border around the edge. Using tools I carefully created a sharp closed edge along the middle seam of the cassette, where the two parts of the mould will fit together. A frame was constructed around the plasticine base using acrylic offcuts on an acrylic base. These where sanded down to remove any rough edges from trimming. From the outside, I used a hot glue gun to seal the seams on each join to prevent Pinkysil leaking from the mould. From the inside, the plasticine was sealed to the acrylic frame to prevent leakage. The final step in setting up was to create indents in the corners of the plasticine base to allow the two parts to lock together and to add a half cone which will act as a funnel when casting. I followed the instructions to mix the Pinkysil in equal parts and stirred carefully before pouring over the mould. This was only the first half of my mould! Next week I will finish the second half. There is a lot of work involved in setting up but once the mould is completed it can be reused to create multiple castings.

[makedestroy]

A source of inspiration for Assessment 4. For this assessment I want the installation to be process-orientated. I was thinking of using video projection but have now chosen to learn the mould making/casting process to create replications of an object. The installation will involve ideas of consumerism and old technology.