“Jazzhole, a cultural haven combining a bookshop and music store, in Lagos, Nigeria.” (photo by Chris Stein)
The Jazzhole is easy to miss — tucked next to a pharmacy on Awolowo Road, a busy, traffic-packed road crammed on either side with banks and businesses. Lagos is nearly always hot and sticky, and it makes me happy to walk into its cool and darkish interior and to be filled instantly with the expectation of discovery. Tables with books spread out like invitations. A range of fiction, from Lisa Gardner to Tash Aw. Biographies, histories, poetry. Large, hardcover art books propped on shelves. Framed images on the walls of iconic book covers, musicians, nationalists. A traditional drum hanging from the wall. A music section with CDs of both old and new music from Africa and Europe and America.
The Jazzhole is a bookstore, a music store, a cultural haven. It is a space reverential of stories and history. Its casual, lived-in charm encourages browsing, and I have discovered beloved books there — books about Africa, in particular. It is also the place in Lagos to go to for new British and American book releases. I have attended live music events there, with the bookshelves pushed back to fit in seating. I have had delicious cake and fresh juice from the tiny cafe at the back.
It feels human, it feels like a place warmly welcoming of all kinds of people. If you’re lucky, you might run into the owners, Kunle and Tundun Tejuosho. Kunle, quiet and introverted, a walking archive of African music, and Tundun, warm and exuberantly intelligent. Genuine people and genuine lovers of culture.