Kerlin BBQ Reviewed
Kerlin is a relatively fresh face in the Austin barbecue scene. Located on East Cesar Chavez, it’s a bit off the beaten path in a slightly sketchy part of Austin’s rapidly mutating east side. To kick off the new year, the trio decided to trek over to Kerlin’s unassuming white trailer and have a lunchtime feast of ‘cue. Here’s what we thought: Jayce Beasley: So…the location. If anyone asks you what east Austin used to be like, you can send them down this way. As you creep further and further down Cesar Chavez to reach your destination, the atmosphere transforms into one of slightly unwelcoming listlessness. This area is definitely not as gentrified as what you find farther north on, say, East Sixth or East 11th. That’s not always a bad thing, but I will say I’m glad Kerlin doesn’t have hours after the sun goes down. The lot itself is very well-maintained with the smoker out on proud display and parasol-covered benches providing ample seating. As with many Central Texas BBQ joints these days, country music can be heard blaring from somewhere behind the smoker. (In fact it’s almost at a point to where when I hear old-style country music, my mouth starts watering for some tender brisket Pavlovian-style.) At this particular time, we were the only customers at Kerlin, but unfortunately it took a bit longer than I would like to get my food and starting chowing down. The employees are super nice, but if this place ever starts to get a following, this could become a problem. Now, for the most important part. Dat ‘cue. As you begin to see as I post more here, I am a brisket man through and through. Throw me a sausage link or a rib here and there, but when it’s time to get down and dirty with some barbecue, my mind, heart and tongue are focused on the brisket. On this front, Kerlin definitely does not disappoint. The brisket is quite tender with a flavorful fat line that doesn’t overpower the taste of the meat. Kerlin uses pecan wood to smoke their meats and you can tell through the tinge of sweetness you get in every bite. There was no real smoke ring to speak of on this day, but the bark was crisp and peppery. Even the ends weren’t that tough and it was a gratifying experience biting into those flavor pockets and letting them slide down my throat. I was very satisfied with the brisket. My only complaint is that it may have been a little TOO tender in some spots, as the meat fell off in strings a little more often than is preferable. I debated going brisket only for this meal, but I ended up getting a link of the hot guts-style sausage. I sure am glad I did. This sausage met all of my standards for a good link. The casing snapped like a rubber band, which I love. The sausage was juicy and flavorful with a kick of spiciness behind it, but not too much as too overload your taste buds. It also wasn’t extremely greasy, which is nice. Kerlin offers only this one style of sausage but it’s a treat you shouldn’t miss out on. Kerlin offers standard white bread, red onions and some lightly pickled, but very refreshing cucumbers. They also have jalapenos sliced in half if that’s your bag. (It’s mine.) The sauce is a sweet, vinegar-based sauce. It’s good, but nothing to write home about. All your delicacies are given to you on a butcher paper-topped tray. Kerlin also has a small selection of sodas and bottled water to wash it all down with. In summation, Kerlin offers a delcious, well-rounded barbecue experience. It’s in a sketchy neighborhood, but the atmosphere of the venue makes up for that a little. For myself, I’ve found a new place to curb that brisket fix when waiting in line isn’t an option. Kerlin looks to be one of my go-to’s and I definitely recommend scoping them out.
Score ranked from 1 (Poor) – 5 (Best) Location/Facility – 3
Service/Staff – 3
Food – 4
Drink – 3
Carlos Montoya
Trailers seem to be the mainstay for Austin barbecue joints these days, and to a certain degree, it’s quite fitting. After all, BBQ competitions and backyard barbecues are held outside, so the trailer environment is a familiar and welcome one. My only beef with it is during cold winters, where the elements affect the quality of your food. Nevertheless, Texas winters only last a few weeks, and luckily, the harsh winter cold that we had been subjected to so far this year was taking a break on the day that my pals and I headed out to Kerlin BBQ; a newer BBQ joint, both to us and to the Austin barbecue scene.
The location was like most ‘cue places calling Austin home nowadays, on the East side. Specifically, on East Cesar Chavez, a good ways down, going well into the hood. This is the part of town that makes you roll up your windows and lock your doors when you come to a stop light, but all is forgotten as you drive up to the quiet destination of Kerlin BBQ. There’s no formal parking lot, just a dirt lot and a fenced in location with the trailer where you order and another trailer housing the pit. The eating area consists of covered picnic tables, and plenty of country music is played over the speakers, with more Willie and Waylon than you can shake a stick at.
We were the only ones here, well into the lunch hour, which was nice considering that the BBQ places we normally go to require some level of waiting or a bit of a crowd. Ordering at the counter was somewhat slow and tedious, which was okay for a slow day like today but could use some work on busier days. The girl taking my order was friendly and courteous though, a stark difference from the “soup nazi” style ordering that I’m used to at busier places. I had saved my appetite for lunch today, and I went for 1/3 lb. of fatty brisket, a sausage link, homemade pickles, onions, bread, a side of sauce and a bottled coke. Sitting at the picnic table, I sunk my teeth into the fatty brisket, smoked with pecan wood and boasting a crispy blackened crusty exterior. The meat was moist and fell apart easily; one could say that it may have been smoked too long, but I think it held together enough to just barely pass the pull test. The cut was thick, with more meat than fat, and the fat was well rendered. The crust contrasted beautifully with the tender meat, and while a dominant rub was hard to pick up on, the meat more than held its own. The sauce was equal parts tangy as it was sweet, but I barely used it since the meat didn’t warrant it. The sausage was really good to, with a perfect snap to it, and just greasy enough to get the right kind of messy. Well, greasy enough to use a slice of white bread to create a makeshift wrap, but still far from being dominated by grease. Rich with beefy goodness and moderately peppered, this sausage was filling and perfectly smoked. One thing that really made Kerlin BBQ stand out was the homemade pickles. While more cucumber than pickle, it was refreshing to have something other than store bought pre-sliced hamburger pickles out of the jar. Onions complimented the whole thing, and overall, the lunch was surprisingly excellent. My Coke a bottle washed the whole thing down, and before you knew it, I was stuffed and ready to pop.
This was my first time at Kerlin BBQ, and I was surprised. Location aside, this place has some food well worth the trip out here. Both brisket and sausage were outstanding, and I’m curious to see how they treat their ribs. These guys keep the menu simple and the tradition alive. While pecan wood is nothing new for Texas barbecue, I like that they promote their use of it instead of taking the failsafe route of oak like most BBQ places you come across. The soft drink selection can use a little more work and the facility is pretty standard for a trailer, but the service, just like the food is really good. Heck, they even treated us with free dessert after our lunch. Kerlin BBQ will definitely get my business again and I suggest that that if you haven’t been out here yet, to make your way out here when you can.
Score ranked from 1 (Poor) – 5 (Best) Location/Facility – 3
Service/Staff – 4
Food – 4
Drink – 2.5