Ridi, ridi che la mamma ha fatto gli gnocchi! Be Merry, because Mamma made gnocchi!
The title says it all! The day Mamma makes gnocchi is one to cheer, a plate of this Italian classic never fails to put a smile on everyone’s face, from the most demanding trendy foodie, to the squeamish kid, to a grumpy grandmother. These simple little dumplings made from potato, flour and egg are yet another Italian traditional clever way to combine what seem to be fairly ordinary ingredients and create something delicious and outstanding.
The word gnocchi may derive from the Italian word nocchio, meaning a knot in wood,or from nocca (meaning knuckle).
Since Roman times, dumplings have been a feature of italian cuisine, possibly introduced from the Middle East by the legions deployed in those regions during the Eastward expansion of the Empire. Back then, gnocchi were made from a semolina porridge-like dough mixed with eggs, and are still found in similar forms today, particularly the oven-baked gnocchi alla romana and Sardinia's malloreddus (although these do not contain eggs).
The use of potato is a relatively recent innovation, occurring of course after the introduction of the potato to Europe in the 16th century. Different countries, not only Italy, have their own type of dumplings, to name a few the Hungarian-Jewish Shlishkas, the Kopytka in Poland, Bramborove Knedliky in Czech Republic, Spätzle in the german speaking world, Fellah Köftesi in the Anatolian cuisine..but the list could go on and on.
Potato Gnocchi are particularly popular where I am from, Friuli Venezia Giulia, the North-East corner of Italy, where different cultures overlap: our regional cooking is a composite result of these extraordinary mittleuropean geopolitics blending in Friulian peasant fare, sophisticated Venetian food and various influences from the Slavic and German cultures. Potatoes are a recurrent feature on our menus, widely used in soups and minestrone, or on the side of meaty main fares, and are present as ingredients in some of our most typical dishes like frittata or frico. There are country feasts intirely dedicated to the starchy tuber, and over 20 varieties are cultivated.
Globally, there are about 5,000 potato varieties: over 99% of the presently cultivated potatoes descended from varieties that originated in the lowlands of south-central Chile, and spread form here throughout the Americas. However, it has also become an essential crop in Europe (especially eastern and central Europe), where per capita production is still the highest in the world, while the most rapid recent expansion has occurred in southern and eastern Asia. China is a world leader in potato production, and it is estimated that nearly a third of the world's potatoes were harvested in China and India.
So, before we start, the question is: which variety of potato is to be used for gnocchi?
Use 'old' floury potatoes, any starchy variety would do: just ask your grocery for a tip, they shouldn’t direct you to new or red potatoes, but toward Desiree, Russets or Kennebec.
For better results, allow the potatoes to sit for a couple of weeks in a cool, dark, dry place before using: if the potato has sprouted tiny eyes or full-blown stems and leaves, it means that the starch is beginning to convert to sugar, which happens when the veggie has been exposed to moisture or a humid environment. If the sprouted spud also has soft and wrinkly flesh, it's an indication that the potato has lost nutrients. So: do not use!
When storing potatoes, also avoid direct exposure to sunlight, to prevent the formation of solanine: if your potato skin looks too green, it might contain too high amounts of this toxin, that can cause unpleasant food poisoning.In general, potatoes are usually safe to eat as long as they're not soft; If they're still firm, go ahead, just peel away all the green parts and enjoy!
>> A Natural tip: you are the apple of my eye:
The Ethylene gas produced by apples prevents potatoes from sprouting, so put an apple with your potatoes for safer and longer storing.
Potatoes sorted, we are ready to get our hands dirty!This is what it takes to make gnocchi the way I've been taught: potatoes, flour and egg.
Not very exciting, you might think, but like real pasta made in the old-fashioned way, gnocchi have a texture and flavour made to absorb and complement other flavours.
I have recently had the opportunity to spend some time with my mum, back home, and learn from her the secrets to make the perfect gnocchi. We didn't use scales or other form of measurement, but worked out quantities and proportions, roughly, a occhio!
Let's say, we used one large potato for each person, 1 fresh egg to 4 potatoes, and that flour was gradually added to the mix till we reached a firm dough that could be still kneaded without breaking. It won't really make sense until you'll start working the ingredients with you bare hands.
First place the potatoes, with their skins on, in a suitably sized saucepan, almost cover with boiling water, add some salt, and cook until tender. Use a fork to pierce through a potato: if it goes in and out effortlessly, it's time to drain. Hold the potato in your hand with a tea cloth and quickly pare off the skin.
Back at my parents' home, we worked on a perfect marble kitchen plan, but if you can't or prefer not to, you can place the potatoes in a large bowl and, using a whisk, a fork or a potato smasher break the potatoes up, in small chunks.I had the privilege to use the potato masher that was given as wedding gift to my parents 52 years ago: I feel particularly attached to this tool, one day it will be mine, when my mum's hands will be too tired to use it. The thought of it brings already both tears to my eyes and a smile on my face.
Now, critical step: let the potatoes cool, it is really important!
Feel them with your hands from time to time to check the temperature and only when cold, add the egg. (Too warm and the egg loses its ability as a binding agent). Don't forget to add a pinch of salt.
Next, start adding the sifted flour to the potatoes and, using your hands, bring the mixture together. Then, knead the mixture lightly to a dough, feel its texture, you need to be able to work it without breaking it.
Transfer the mixture to a lightly floured surface, flour your hands and divide it into rolls of a sausage shape, approximately ½ inch (1 cm) in diameter, then cut it into pieces, neither too small or big, placing them on a tray or plate to rest.
To cook the gnocchi, firstly bring a large pan of salted water to a simmer, drop the gnocchi into the water and cook for about 3 minutes; when ready they will start to float to the surface. Use a draining spoon to transfer them to the serving dish.
We used some left over rabbit stew to make the sauce, but a classic would be to melt some butter over a gentle heat, add some sage leaves, allow the butter to froth while the sage leaves turn crisp – about 30 seconds – then spoon the butter mixture over the warm gnocchi. Sprinkle grated Parmesan over and serve.
And now: Ridi! Laugh, because when life is as easy as making gnocchi, you have just to be merry!