Thank you to everyone who voted! There was an overwhelming 86% in favor of yes. I decided to pull the sock out and try for something different.
I'm going to switch to Hermione's Everyday Socks. This is a pattern that I've knit before with variegated yarn, and it's super simple and quick to knit up. I really enjoyed it last time when I made it with a grey variegated yarn, so I'm hoping that it knits up well with these colors.
Want to join me in supporting a good cause? I'm taking on the Knit Every Day in June challenge to raise life-saving money for people in the
I wanted to make socks that had two cables going down the front. Other patterns like that on Ravelry all seemed to have either seed or stockinette stitch between the cables. So, to mix it up, I put double seed or moss stitch in instead. I think it has a more interesting look to it, and I liked how it looks with the coin cables. I messed up the row repeats for the cable on both socks so some of the "coins" are longer or shorter than they should be. The yarn, Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted in Haze Heather, is so pretty. I'm happy that I'm keeping this pair for myself. Pattern under the cut.
GAUGE
6 stitches x 8 rows = 1 inch in stockinette
TOOLS
- 2 skeins of Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted in Haze Heather
- 2 US 5 circular needles
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
- stitch markers if desired
- cable needle if desired
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
Double Moss Stitch (instructions and video here) [reversible]
k1, p1 to end.
k1, p1 to end.
p1, k1 to end.
p1, k1 to end.
**You're just working in k1p1 ribbing for 2 rows, purling the knits and knitting the purls for the third row, and then going back to working as seen for the fourth.
Coin Cable (instructions) [worked in the round, even rows right side]
p1, k5, p1.
work as seen.
work as seen.
work as seen.
work as seen.
p1, slip 4 sts to cable needle, hold needle in back, k1, slip last 3 sts from cable needle to left needle, bring cable needle with the last stitch in front between your working needles, k3 from cable needle, k last st from cable needle, p1.
**The cable part makes more sense after you've done it one or two times. If the above instructions aren’t cutting it for you, here are the notes from a project page (they used dpns):
“ slip next 4 stitches to dpn and hold in back, k1, then slip the last 3 of the stitches from dpn back to left-hand needle; then (before knitting the stitches) bring the dpn with the last stitch to front between needles, passing the left of the yarn; then knit the 3 stitches from the left-hand needle; then knit the last stitch from the dpn”
PATTERN
Cast on 48 stitches and join in the round. Work in k1p1 ribbing for 1.5" as the cuff. For the leg, both sides of the leg will be worked the same way. k1, place stitch marker, p1, k5, p1 (coin cable), place stitch marker, work the next 8 stitches in double moss stitch, place stitch marker, p1, k5, p1 (coin cable), place stitch marker, k1. Do the same for the other side. Work the leg like this until 6" from the cast on. For the heel flap, I did a slip stitch enforced flap. Row 1 is the right side.
slip 1, k1 to end.
slip 1st stitch of row, purl to end.
Work the heel flap until it is 2" long. Pick up 11 stitches on either side of the heel flap. I turned the heel the same way that I did in this post.
If you don’t like memorizing the numbers, what you’re doing is reducing across the gap. Continue on like this until all stitches have been worked, ending with a purl row. Then slip 1 and knit across. Pick up the gusset stitches and knit around the whole sock once before you start to reduce the gusset stitches back to 48 stitches total (or however many fit around your foot comfortably). I like to put all of the extra stitches on my heel needle. That way, I only have to do reductions on one needle so I can mindlessly knit the instep. When reducing across the heel needle, I’ll k2, ssk “improved” (from this site - but go with whichever left slanting decrease you like), knit across to the last 4 stitches, ssk (or your favorite right slanting decrease), and k2. Repeat this reduction every other row until you have 48 stitches total.
After the heel decreases, work the foot evenly with the bottom in stockinette stitch. When I was 3" short of total foot length, I switched to stockinette all around the foot. However, I wish I had stayed in pattern longer but follow your heart! At 2" short of foot length, I did my toe decreases and then grafted the last 12 stitches together. I’ve written out the instructions as given in this video that shows you how to knit kitchener stitch. Position the top and bottom of your sock toe at the end of the needles as if you’re about to work them. The working yarn should be coming from the top needle.
Knit the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Knit the next stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Knit the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Purl the next stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Steps 1 and 2 are just for set up. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until all stitches have been worked.Weave in ends, block and enjoy!
