Update: I’ve recently gotten super interested in sock blanks. For anyone who doesn’t know, a sock blank is a big swatch of sock weight yarn knit double into stockinette. You can treat it as a canvas and dye it however you like. The benefit is that the two balls of yarn you get have almost identical color patterns so your socks match, a rare luxury when using other hand dyed yarns.
Since learning what they were, I received four as birthday gifts. I wasn’t able to dye them while at college because I didn’t have my supplies so I had to wait until I got home. I’ve accumulated a good amount of Kool Aid but not much that falls into the warmer side but I made do. I zapped it in the microwave for two increments of two minutes but I had left it out on the counter once dyed for a couple hours. I think the dye had exhausted after the first round but the second was a safety. Then I washed it in Eucalan and let it dry overnight. Here it is dry:
I’m happy with how it turned out! I did a lot of searching around on Ravelry and saw that chevrons make the different colors blend a bit more in the sock than doing straight stripes, as you can see below.
(pictures from here)
I know my color sections won’t be as thick because my stripes are more narrow but we’ll see!
As for the dyes, the blue was a packet of blue raspberry lemonade Kool Aid with a few drops of green and blue food dye that has been hanging out in the kitchen cabinet for a long time. The orange was a packet each of peach mango and tropical punch Kool Aid with some yellow food dye mixed in and one drop of blue food dye to darken it. Then I sprinkled dry black cherry Kool Aid powder in random spots. There are splotches from handling the blank with my gloves and from small puddles of dye on my work surface but it doesn’t bother me.
And here they are! I like the colors but next time, I’d like to make bigger sections to have a more gradual blend. They’re super soft! More details on my Ravelry project page.
So I’ve spent a lot of my time on Ravelry looking at yarn that people have dyed with Kool Aid so I decided to try it myself! It’s definitely a good option for people like me who want to try hand dyeing but don’t want to have to play with dangerous ingredients and buy separate pots and tools to handle them. I got 8 packets of unsweetened Kool Aid powder from my neighborhood grocery store for a little over $2 and I’m happy with the results so I’ll definitely try this again!
Google tells me that you need animal fiber yarns because plant based and synthetic yarns won’t take up the dye so I used some leftover wool yarn, Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool in Oatmeal.
The steps I followed were to wind the yarn into a loose hank around the backs of two chairs. I tied it loosely with acrylic scrap yarn so it wouldn’t tangle and I tied the ends of the yarn together so it would be easy to wind it into a ball later. Then I had to soak the yarn in room temperature water with a splash of vinegar. Allegedly vinegar isn’t necessary to get the yarn to soak up the Kool Aid dye due to its citric acid content but I figured better safe than sorry.
The dyes I got were (clockwise from the top left) Lemonade, Orange, Cherry, and Sharkleberry Fin.
I taped a trash bag to my kitchen counter and wore gloves along with an apron while dyeing the yarn because Kool Aid does stain. You also should try to avoid inhaling too much of the powder during the process. I used a spoon, a straw, and a brush as my dyeing tools along with my fingers. I didn’t have much of a plan of attack. I just knew that I wanted some semisolid parts and a speckled area. The brush I used wasn’t the best for this task because it didn’t soak up much dye and would have taken forever so at a few points, I just pour dye on the yarn right out of the container. After I felt satisfied with the colors, I squished the yarn with my (gloved) hands to work the dye through. Then I picked up the yarn and put it in a microwave safe dish. I zapped it for 2 minutes. I just used the Express Cook setting so I can’t say anything about the temperature. I let it rest for maybe 5 minutes while I cleaned up before zapping it again for 2 minutes. I knew the dye had been exhausted because the water in the dish was a cloudy white. The photo below shows the yarn after its first round in the microwave.
I left the yarn on my counter for about an hour so it could cool down because several tutorials on microwave dyeing had warned against putting warm yarn in cold water since that causes felting. I washed it with a little detergent in cold water and rinsed until the bubbles were gone. The colors didn’t run at all in the washing process. The first rinse got rid of the cloudy leftover water from the dye process. I hung it up to dry overnight, pictured below.
This morning, the yarn was dry and I wound it into a ball. I really like the way the colors turned out. I initially wasn’t a fan of how the orange looked but it has grown on me. It’s important to note that the lemonade dye is not very strong so if you want it to show up, you’ll probably have to use a lot of powder. Also the yarn still has the fruity Kool Aid smell but I’ve read that it should go away over time. Looking forward to making maybe a hat or mittens with this yarn!
I missed knitting while I’m studying here in Copenhagen since I only brought a crochet project with me. I stopped by a Tiger store (it’s the Danish equivalent of a dollar store) and got bamboo double pointed needles and fingering weight yarn. DPNs were an adjustment but I got the hang of it pretty quickly after dealing with some initial laddering problems. I didn’t feel like following a pattern so I improvised on this pair for my brother. Pattern below the cut.
GAUGE
8 stitches x 9 rows in stockinette
TOOLS
- 1.5 skeins of Tiger Strompegarn / Sock Yarn
- 4 US 1 1/2 double point needles
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
- stitch markers if desired
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
Double Moss Stitch (instructions and video here) [reversible]
k1, p1 to end.
k1, p1 to end.
p1, k1 to end.
p1, k1 to end.
**You’re just working in k1p1 ribbing for 2 rows, purling the knits and knitting the purls for the third row, and then going back to working as seen for the fourth.
PATTERN
Cast on 68 stitches and join in the round. Work k1p1 ribbing for 1 inch. Then work double moss stitch around the entire leg. Length is your choice. I made the leg about 6 inches total. Put 34 of the stitches on a separate needle to work the heel flap. sl1, k1 across and then sl 1 and purl all on the reverse. Repeat these 2 rows until the heel flap measures 2.25 inches and then work the heel of your choice. I did a rounder heel across 34 stitches as written here.
sl 1, knit 19 stitches, ssk, k1, turn
sl 1, purl 7, p2tog, p1, turn
sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn
sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn
sl 1, k10, ssk, k1, turn
Continue working one more stitch until all stitches have been worked, ending on a purl (WS) row. Slip 1 and knit across.
Pick up the gusset stitches. After counting the stitches, I suggest placing stitch markers on either side of the instep where reductions should stop to get 68 stitches total. Continue with the double moss stitch on the instep and stockinette on the sole. Work the foot until about 2 inches shy of total foot length. I find this site really helpful. For example, if I were making these socks for a women’s 10, I would start the toe at 8.5 inches because the total foot length of 10.5 inches - 2 inches is 8.5. Switch to working stockinette around the whole sock. Reduce a stitch on each side of both the top and bottom of the sock, so you’re reducing 4 stitches in that round. Reduce every other round, with the other round working the stitches as seen until 34 stitches remain. Then reduce every round until 14 stitches total stitches remain. Graft the toe. Cut the yarn, giving yourself a tail of at least 2 feet (just to be safe!). I like this video that shows you how to knit kitchener stitch. I’ve written out the instructions as given in the video. Position the top and bottom of your sock toe at the end of the needles as if you’re about to work them. The working yarn should be coming from the top needle.
Knit the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Knit the next stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Knit the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Purl the next stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Steps 1 and 2 are just for set up. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until all stitches have been worked.
Despite the lull, I finally took photos of my recently finished socks as well as my current WIP.
The Broken Seed Socks are definitely a favorite of mine. The yarn is beautiful, and I think it’s really well suited to the pattern. They seem to wear well with just a little fuzzing on the heel. I don’t know if I like the way the yarn looks at the end of a round (see the sock on the left) but it blends in enough with the texture. I’ll properly learn jogless stripes later.
These Basketweave Socks are great too. They aren’t as flashy as the Broken Seed ones but I guess it’s because there isn’t any colorwork and the yarn is toned down. The yarn is Simple Sock from Lilliput Yarns in the colorway Shadow. These socks in a women’s 10 took up almost the entire skein, but I can’t say precisely how much because I don’t have a scale.
Finally, my current WIP is toe up socks for my mom. I’m using my second skein of Simple Sock in Clifford because pink is her favorite color. I think I prefer top down socks simply because turning the heel was a pain in the butt. I had to redo it three times, and will probably do it once more because it seems too small. Beautiful yarn though, and you can look at the cable pattern free here.
I haven’t been knitting much lately. I first found myself unmotivated, but now I’m not knitting because I think the ankle on my toe up socks is too narrow for my mom’s feet and I don’t want to work on them just to have to rip it all back. Anyway, I’ll see her this weekend and I’ll try to get back on track.
These are my favorite project. The Manos del Uruguay yarn is beautiful and there's a lot of variety in its colors. It's just a lot of fun to see how it works up. I'm almost done with the first sock. I don't have to worry much about jogless stripes because the join of the round is hidden by the stitch pattern. I was afraid that I wouldn't like working with fingering weight yarn but it's lovely. Can't wait to wear these. You can find this pattern here.
During January, I felt pretty limited so far as options for projects but I did make these nice mittens from alpaca yarn. I lost the tag a long time ago so I don't know the specifics about the yarn but it was from Spruce Ridge Farm in Old Chatham, NY.
I also made a little headband/ear warmer since I cut my hair into a pixie, leaving my ears exposed to the cold. I like it but it needs some work.
I've been working on a cowl for my mom. I found the pattern on Ravelry and it's from Lost City Knits. It's coming along nicely but it's only a 2 row repeat so it's boring. Good for watching TV though.
Finally, I recently bought one skein of Manos Del Uruguay yarn which is beautiful. I can't wait to make socks with it!
I wanted to make socks that had two cables going down the front. Other patterns like that on Ravelry all seemed to have either seed or stockinette stitch between the cables. So, to mix it up, I put double seed or moss stitch in instead. I think it has a more interesting look to it, and I liked how it looks with the coin cables. I messed up the row repeats for the cable on both socks so some of the "coins" are longer or shorter than they should be. The yarn, Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted in Haze Heather, is so pretty. I'm happy that I'm keeping this pair for myself. Pattern under the cut.
GAUGE
6 stitches x 8 rows = 1 inch in stockinette
TOOLS
- 2 skeins of Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted in Haze Heather
- 2 US 5 circular needles
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
- stitch markers if desired
- cable needle if desired
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
Double Moss Stitch (instructions and video here) [reversible]
k1, p1 to end.
k1, p1 to end.
p1, k1 to end.
p1, k1 to end.
**You're just working in k1p1 ribbing for 2 rows, purling the knits and knitting the purls for the third row, and then going back to working as seen for the fourth.
Coin Cable (instructions) [worked in the round, even rows right side]
p1, k5, p1.
work as seen.
work as seen.
work as seen.
work as seen.
p1, slip 4 sts to cable needle, hold needle in back, k1, slip last 3 sts from cable needle to left needle, bring cable needle with the last stitch in front between your working needles, k3 from cable needle, k last st from cable needle, p1.
**The cable part makes more sense after you've done it one or two times. If the above instructions aren’t cutting it for you, here are the notes from a project page (they used dpns):
“ slip next 4 stitches to dpn and hold in back, k1, then slip the last 3 of the stitches from dpn back to left-hand needle; then (before knitting the stitches) bring the dpn with the last stitch to front between needles, passing the left of the yarn; then knit the 3 stitches from the left-hand needle; then knit the last stitch from the dpn”
PATTERN
Cast on 48 stitches and join in the round. Work in k1p1 ribbing for 1.5" as the cuff. For the leg, both sides of the leg will be worked the same way. k1, place stitch marker, p1, k5, p1 (coin cable), place stitch marker, work the next 8 stitches in double moss stitch, place stitch marker, p1, k5, p1 (coin cable), place stitch marker, k1. Do the same for the other side. Work the leg like this until 6" from the cast on. For the heel flap, I did a slip stitch enforced flap. Row 1 is the right side.
slip 1, k1 to end.
slip 1st stitch of row, purl to end.
Work the heel flap until it is 2" long. Pick up 11 stitches on either side of the heel flap. I turned the heel the same way that I did in this post.
If you don’t like memorizing the numbers, what you’re doing is reducing across the gap. Continue on like this until all stitches have been worked, ending with a purl row. Then slip 1 and knit across. Pick up the gusset stitches and knit around the whole sock once before you start to reduce the gusset stitches back to 48 stitches total (or however many fit around your foot comfortably). I like to put all of the extra stitches on my heel needle. That way, I only have to do reductions on one needle so I can mindlessly knit the instep. When reducing across the heel needle, I’ll k2, ssk “improved” (from this site - but go with whichever left slanting decrease you like), knit across to the last 4 stitches, ssk (or your favorite right slanting decrease), and k2. Repeat this reduction every other row until you have 48 stitches total.
After the heel decreases, work the foot evenly with the bottom in stockinette stitch. When I was 3" short of total foot length, I switched to stockinette all around the foot. However, I wish I had stayed in pattern longer but follow your heart! At 2" short of foot length, I did my toe decreases and then grafted the last 12 stitches together. I’ve written out the instructions as given in this video that shows you how to knit kitchener stitch. Position the top and bottom of your sock toe at the end of the needles as if you’re about to work them. The working yarn should be coming from the top needle.
Knit the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Knit the next stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Knit the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Purl the next stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Steps 1 and 2 are just for set up. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until all stitches have been worked.Weave in ends, block and enjoy!
I decided to make a pair of socks using this pattern for a cable panel going down the front of the sock. I've already done a small cable on the side with my last pair of socks so I was ready to do something a bit larger and more complicated. Pattern below the cut.
GAUGE
6 stitches x 8 rows = 1 inch in stockinette
TOOLS
- 2 US 5 circular needles
- 1 skein of Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Paints in Sapphire Seas (220 yards)
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
- stitch markers if desired (I used safety pins)
- cable needle if desired (I just used one of the points from the other circular needle)
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
lc = slip 1 st to cable, hold in front, purl 1, knit 1 from cable
rc = skip 1 st, k1, knit skipped st, drop original 2 sts from left needle
Modified Ribbed Diamond [worked in the round so right side doesn't matter]
p1, k1, p4, rc 3x, p4, k1, p1
work as seen
p1, k1, p3, rc 3x, lc, p3, k1, p1
work as seen
p1, k1, p2, rc 3x, lc 2x, p2, k1, p1
work as seen
p1, k1, p1, rc 3x, lc 3x, p1, k1, p1
work as seen
p1, k1, p1, lc 3x, rc 3x, p1, k1, p1
work as seen
p1, k1, p2, lc 2x, rc 3x, p2, k1, p1
work as seen
p1, k1, p3, lc, rc 3x, p3, k1, p1
work as seen
**this is different from the cable pattern I linked in the beginning of the post. I didn't like the pattern much so I just followed my gut and this is what I got.
PATTERN
**this pattern is going to be much more general than the previous Cute Cable Socks pattern. However, because it's worked over the same number of stitches, a lot of the same instructions apply.**
Cast on 48 stitches on 2 circular needles and join in the round, making sure not to twist your stitches. Work in k1p1 ribbing for 2.5".
Work one side as stockinette (this will be your heel flap side) and work the ribbed diamond on the other. Knit 3 stitches, place a stitch marker, work ribbed diamond across the 18 stitches, place a stitch marker, and knit the last 3 stitches. Continue working like this until 6" from cast on.
Work the heel flap as follows:
row 1: slip 1, knit 1. Repeat these 2 to the end.
row 2: slip 1, purl 1. Repeat these 2 to the end.
This creates a thicker fabric than the usual stockinette. This is beneficial since the heel is typically the first place you'll find a hole in a sock.
Continue this 2 row repeat until the heel flap measures 2". Turn the heel.
If you don’t like memorizing the numbers, what you’re doing is reducing across the gap. Continue on like this until all stitches have been worked, ending with a purl row. Then slip 1 and knit across.
Pick up 11 gusset stitches on either side of the heel flap.
Work your decreases until there are 48 stitches. This will be ssk on the left side (first stitch) of your non-heel flap side, and k2tog on its right side (last stitch). Reduce every other round, interchanging with working evenly. Once there are 48 stitches left, work evenly until you've reached 2 inches less than your desired total heel to toe length.
Toe Decreases:
row 1: knit all evenly
row 2: knit 1, slip slip knit, knit across to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1 (and do the same on the next needle too!)
You’re going to work rows 1 and 2 until there are 12 stitches left on each needle, making for a total of 24. Then you’ll only work row 2 until 4 stitches are left on each needle, a total of 8. Graft these stitches together. I’ve written out the instructions as given in this video that shows you how to knit kitchener stitch. Position the top and bottom of your sock toe at the end of the needles as if you’re about to work them. The working yarn should be coming from the top needle.
Knit the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Knit the next stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Knit the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Purl the next stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Steps 1 and 2 are just for set up. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until all stitches have been worked. Weave in your ends, block and enjoy!
These socks were made for a friend who's transferring to another school. I didn't have time to finish them before winter break but I'm planning on sending them in a care package. Full pattern under the cut.
The cable is based loosely on one from New Stitch A Day but because I'm bad at remembering how many rows I've worked, I think I shortened it to a 3 row repeat.
GAUGE
6 stitches x 8 rows = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
TOOLS
- 2 US 5 circular needles
- 2 skeins of Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Fjord Heather (220 yards)
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
- stitch markers if desired (I used safety pins)
- cable needle if desired (I just used one of the points from the other circular needle)
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
c2b = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold them in the back
c2f = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold them in front
kfc = knit the stitches from cable needle
Cute Cable [it doesn't matter which is the right side since it's worked in the round]
p2, c2b, k2, kfc 2, c2f, k2, kfc 2, p2
work as seen
work as seen
PATTERN
Cast on 48 stitches on your 2 circular needles. For help with that, watch this video. I found it very helpful. Put 24 of the stitches on one needle and 24 on the other. Join and start working the cuff.
The Cuff & Leg
Work in k1 p1 ribbing for 2". Then, one needle will be worked in plain stockinette while the other will have the cable centered in it. The cable is worked over 12 stitches. Knit 6 stitches, place a stitch marker, work your first row of cable over the following 12 stitches, place a stitch marker, and knit the following 6 stitches. Continue working the leg like this until it measures 5.5" from the cast on (or longer if you want).
The Heel Flap
Before you can start working the heel flap, rearrange your stitches so that the cable is split by the two. You're just going to have to shift 12 stitches from each needle to the next. To work the heel flap, use the following stitch pattern:
row 1: slip 1st stitch, knit all [right side]
row 2: slip 1st stitch, purl all [wrong side]
Do this for all the 24 stitches on one needle until the heel flap measures 2" from when you split the sock. End ready to do a right side (knit) row.
Turning the Heel
This is the part where I found it helpful to look up some video tutorials on Youtube just to see how it was done. For this pattern, this page was helpful for figuring out how to turn the heel. I used the Rounder heel pattern but I'll post it below.
If you don't like memorizing the numbers, what you're doing is reducing across the gap. Continue on like this until all stitches have been worked, ending with a purl row. Then slip 1 and knit across.
The Gusset
Again, Youtube is your friend here! Pick up 10 stitches along the heel flap edges, looking for the slipped stitch edge. Once you've picked up the stitches along one side of the heel flap, work across the sock to get to the other side and pick up 10 stitches on that side of the heel flap. Now all your stitches are on the needles again.
You're going to start reducing the stitches back to your original cast on number of 48 with 24 on each needle. Count your total stitches to see how many reductions you'll have to make. What I usually do is count the heel flap stitches from the middle and see how many of the instep stitches I need to make 24. I place stitch markers on the outside of those stitches. Then I count out from the center of the non-heel flap needle and place stitch markers between the 11th and 12th stitches from the center. You're going to use the 12th stitch for your reductions so you don't want to separate it from the extras. Knit all the stitches around your sock once before we get to the reductions. With your reductions, you want the top part of your sock (the non-heel flap needle) to go over the instep stitches. If you're looking at your sock's top with the cuff towards you, you want a right slanting decrease on the right side and a left slanting decrease on the left side (see here).
I did a slip slip knit decrease on the left side and knit 2 together on the right side. You're going to do your decreases on one round and then knit all your stitches on the next. Continue on like this until there are 48 stitches.
The Foot
Now, knit all stitches evenly until your foot is 2" shy of the total length. Here is a chart that has total foot length corresponding to US shoe sizes. Once you're 2" short from total length, it's time for toe decreases!
The Toe
row 1: knit all evenly
row 2: knit 1, slip slip knit, knit across to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1 (and do the same on the next needle too!)
You're going to work rows 1 and 2 until there are 12 stitches left on each needle, making for a total of 24. Then you'll only work row 2 until 4 stitches are left on each needle, a total of 8. Graft these stitches together. I’ve written out the instructions as given in this video that shows you how to knit kitchener stitch. Position the top and bottom of your sock toe at the end of the needles as if you’re about to work them. The working yarn should be coming from the top needle.
Knit the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Knit the next stitch on the bottom needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Knit the first stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Slide the stitch off of the needle.
Purl the next stitch on the top needle. Pull the yarn through. Leave the worked stitch on the needle.
Steps 1 and 2 are just for set up. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until all stitches have been worked. Weave in your ends, block and enjoy! I hope the pattern was clear.
I finished the socks for my boyfriend a while ago. His feet are bigger than mine, so they're a little baggy on me in the photo. I'm really happy with how they turned out though! He says they'll make good boot socks.
The yarn I used was Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted in Aurora Heather. It's a really nice dark green with flecks of black. The stripes are Fisherman's Wool in Oatmeal. The pattern is from Purl Bee and was very helpful!
I also made another pair of very simple socks. I deviated a bit from the pattern I originally based it on. I think that I'll just keep a general sock pattern from now on. Again, Fisherman's Wool in Oatmeal!
I'm waiting for my US 5 circulars to come in the mail so I can start my boyfriend's socks so I started this simple project to kill time. I tried holding the yarn double but I didn't like the way it looked. I'm using Red Heart Super Saver and Snuggly Wuggly. Since they're both acrylic, I won't have to bother with blocking.
I've never knit socks before but I was inspired to because my anniversary is coming up. My boyfriend is from LA, so his wardrobe isn't totally suited to Hudson Valley winters, so I thought a pair of wool, hand knit socks would be a good present for him.
I sifted through a lot of free Ravelry sock patterns but quickly realized that I don't have any needles smaller than US 5. And like anyone who has decided to give socks a try, I also had to choose what method to use: double pointed, magic loop, or two circulars. I gave magic loop a try because I simply don't have any DPNs but I kept having problems with laddering. Now I'm on to giving two circulars a shot and it's going well. I watched this tutorial, and it was really helpful. Hopefully my gauge will turn out right for a pattern I'm going to try.
and here they are pre-blocking! I made the seed stitch cuff a little longer, along with some other modifications. I think they went well for a first pair.
Also, I recently finished a sweater. The pattern was really easy to follow, and I gave corrugated ribbing a try, which was my first experience with colorwork. I'll post the project once it's blocked!
Finished it! It's a quick knit, and very fluffy. Details below the cut.
TOOLS
- US 10.5 needles
- 3 skeins of Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Dark Grey Heather
- 3 skeins of Red Heart Boutique Treasure in Spectrum
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
k1b = knit one stitch below
Modified Fisherman's Rib [reversible]
p1, k1 to end.
k1b, p1 to end.
PATTERN
I've been thinking about using fisherman's rib for a while, ever since I saw this PurlBee post. Not only do they explain how to knit one stitch below very clearly, but the post includes two free patterns: a scarf knit flat and a circular cowl. This is especially helpful if you want to knit fisherman's rib in the round, which requires a modification of the stitch. Check it out!
Cast on 33 stitches. Slip the first stitch of every row, holding the yarn as if to work the stitch (purlwise/yarn in front if you would purl that stitch and knitwise/yarn in back if you would knit that stitch). Repeat the stitch pattern until you've reached your desired length. Bind off, weave in ends, and enjoy!
About the Project
This project was my experiment with fisherman's rib and variegated yarn. Holding the yarn double was fun but it was annoying to have so many extra ends to weave in. Also, because the two different kinds of yarn I was using didn't have the same yardage (Vanna's Choice: 145 yds & Boutique Treasure: 151 yds), I was limited by the shorter one. Because of this limitation, I did a modification of fisherman's rib so that I wouldn't eat up the yarn as quickly but still have some added fluffiness.
I started this scarf two days ago and it's already double this length. I saw some beautiful, fluffy variegated yarn. I first tried out a herringbone stitch but I was afraid I hadn't bought enough yarn to make a full scarf since the stitch is so dense. I don't usually use variegated yarn that is this dramatic and after some research online, one tip that I saw was to hold the yarn double, pairing the variegated yarn with a solid yarn. As you can see from the photo, I managed to avoid pooling. There are subtle stripes, which I'm not crazy about but because of the slight halo to the variegated yarn, frogging is really difficult, which I learned frogging the herringbone swatch. I settled for a very simple, modified fisherman's rib to show off the yarn. I'll post more photos and pattern details once I'm done.
- 1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Grey Heather
- stitch markers if desired
- crochet hook for weaving in ends
STITCHES
Glossary
k = knit
p = purl
k4tog = knit 4 stitches together
yo = yarn over
Ostrich Plume Stitch [even rows are the wrong side]
k all.
p all.
k4tog, (yo k1) 5 times, yo, k4tog.
p all.
Seed Stitch [reversible]
k1, p1 to end.
knit purls and purl knits as seen.
Reverse Stockinette [even rows are the wrong side]
p all.
k all.
PATTERN
Another stitch from New Stitch A Day! Here is their page.
Cast on 44 stitches. Slip the first stitch of every row with yarn in back. Work the first 4 rows as either garter or seed stitch to prevent curling. Slip the first stitch then work the following 2 in seed stitch. Place a stitch marker. Work 4 stitches in reverse stockinette. Place a stitch marker. Work 13 stitches in ostrich plume stitch. Place a stitch marker. Work 4 stitches in reverse stockinette. Place a stitch marker. Work 13 stitches in ostrich plume stitch. Place a marker. Work 4 stitches in reverse stockinette. Place a marker. Work the last 3 stitches in seed stitch.
Work until desired length and then work the last 4 rows either garter or seed stitch, depending on what you chose in the beginning. Bind off and enjoy!
It takes a little bit of getting used to but once you enough of the pattern to look at, you won't need to look at the pattern so much.
Stockinette Stitch [odd rows are the wrong side]
p all.
k all.
Seed Stitch
p1, k1 to end.
**Note: the rows for seed stitch are only all the same when there is an even number of stitches. If you modify it to use for an odd number, keep in mind that you purl the knits and knit the purls!
PATTERN
I found the Double Herringbone Mesh stitch here. NewStitchADay always has very helpful videos which was great as I was new to lace.
To start, cast on 76 stitches. I like the cable cast on because it's never too tight, and easy to do. If you don't like the stretchiness, you can always tighten it up with some crocheting.
Work the first 4 rows in either garter or seed stitch, depending on your preference, to prevent curling. Slip the first stitch of every row with yarn in back throughout the project to prevent curling along the sides as well.
Slip the first stitch and then work the following 5 stitches as seed stitch. Place a stitch marker. Work the next 4 stitches in stockinette. Place a stitch marker. Work the next 21 stitches as double herringbone mesh. Place a stitch marker. Work 4 stitches in stockinette. Place a marker. Work 6 stitches in seed.** Place a marker. Work 4 stitches in stockinette. Place a marker. Work 21 stitches in double herringbone mesh. Place a marker. Work 4 stitches in stockinette. Place a marker. Work last 6 stitches in seed.
Continue like this until you reach your desired length, work the last 4 rows in either garter or seed stitch, and bind off. If you prefer a more narrow scarf, you can always modify the width of the stockinette and seed stitch panels, or remove the second panel of double herringbone mesh entirely by stopping where there is a ** in the pattern.
Hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any problems understanding the pattern (this is my first time writing a pattern for other people) or general questions. Happy knitting!
