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Fire by Onipa, live in studio for L'Obs
Haider posted a French article from Le Nouvel Obs about T's outfit and is says "This could displease, pass for a provocation, and also be understood as a plea for gender fluid when it was not their intention at the time". I found the beginning of the article, the rest is under a paywall but they say it was made especially for T and it was meant to highlight the movie's message
Yes, I went ahead and paid for a subscription. It's a lovely piece and I love learning how that outfit came to be. It was especially designed for Tim and wasn't part of Haider's collection. Amazing.
Here's the translated article:
A blood red jumpsuit and a bare back! At the Venice Film Festival, the outfit of Franco-American actor Timothée Chalamet, created by Haider Ackermann, did not go unnoticed. Sophie Fontanel reveals the underside of their collaboration and explains this choice.
Venice Film Festival. Premiere of Luca Guadagnino's film, "Bones and All", Timothée Chalamet walks the red carpet, wearing a blood red jumpsuit, bare back. Even in our era which wants to be free, no man (or almost) has ever dressed like this on a red carpet . Obviously the images make the buzz, intermingling the rave reviews and those, let's say, more contrasted.
The outfit is by designer Haider Ackermann. A quick check seems to indicate that it does not exist in Haider's collections. Haider, contacted by telephone, confirms to me that it was done on purpose for the actor, on purpose to be worn on a red carpet , and even on purpose to “carry” the subject of the film. Clothing as a spokesperson this column always starts from this postulate, well here is a brilliant illustration.
Haider Ackermann regularly dresses the actor. Contrary to what one might think, the looks of the young man (he's 26!) are not delegated to a personal stylist . He belongs to a generation for whom fashion is not a separate world. He is in clothes like a fish in water.
When he and Haider spoke, they began by discussing the film, which romantically addresses the issue of cannibalism. Haider went red, because of the blood. He also thought that once on the red carpet at La Mostra, if Timothée was in red, then he would blend into that unique color and only his face would be seen.
Alright, he said. Then Haider wondered what other piece of the young actor's skin we could show. Arms ? The arms, yes. Then he continued to think. Arms, isn't that a bit of “déjà-vu” ? Legs ? Same. It was then that he thought of the back. He offered two versions of this look: option 1 with a covered back, and option 2, bare back. He said: “We will choose at the last moment. »
Fifteen days before La Mostra, there were the fittings. When Timothée saw himself in the backless jumpsuit, he began to pace the room, jubilantly investing in option 1. Haider watched him stroll, with this V-shaped torso whose outfit accentuated the beauty and the Powerful.
The thousands of tiny sequins making up the garment shimmered on the young man who was swaying his hips, enthusiastic, comfortable in his own skin. Of course yes, they wondered, even if they knew that their decision was made, whether or not to go through with it. This could displease, pass for a provocation, and also be understood as a plea for gender fluid when it was not their intention at the time. Of course, they anticipated the noise it was going to make. But they said to themselves that before all that – Timothée's clothes and ease – would “transport” people. Lift them to move them forward one space.
At home, I can't say anything any more. Everything I say needs to be validated by the Realignment Office, approved by the new gender moral. The Realignment Office is my daughter. It's a cultural revolution, young people are reinventing the dictionary. From now on, my vocabulary, let's say, the most colorful one is censored. I can't give you any example. I have been reconditioned. My brain has forgotten my old personality. If I give you an example, I would expose myself to further attacks from the Realignment Office. You, the french people are a little behind in this area, but I promise you won't escape it either. It is true that the french are guardians of their own language. We, the english, are inclined to americanization. Lucky for me, a song like “Girls and Boys”, with all his gender fluidity, pleads in my favor with the office, it's almost like a badge of honor. But on the same record, the song Parklife could get me into serious trouble with the office. I'm talking about "dirty pigeons" [slang for "easy women”]. And I also sing about a fear of an overweight man [“You should cut down on your pork life mate, get some exercise”]. Frankly, I prefer not to risk myself too much in this kind of inventory. (laughs) - DAMON ALBARN (l'OBS, nov 2021)
Paris in the age of the Super Rich. Full and quarter page for L’Obs in Paris. There are apps for in home chefs, concierges, dog walkers, car parkers, massage therapists, and just about anything else a rich person could want
New Magazine Cover #3:
L'Obs (France), March 25, 2020. Creative director: Serge Ricco.
If you have recent magazine covers you've created, send them along to me and I'll post them up in this series.
Voilà, j'ai dû m'y mettre. Cela fait maintenant plusieurs semaines qu'au journal on me demande d'écrire des mots sur Karl Lagerfeld, en prévision. Cela fait des semaines que je ne le fais pas, en crachant sur mes feuilles, déjà pleine de peine. Là, il est mort, et j'ai pris mes doigts et j'ai écrit. D'autres seront plus précis, plus complets. Les nécrologies vont tomber. C'est normal en même temps, c'est l'histoire de la vie, surtout des gens célèbres. Mais moi, je me demande : on va en perdre combien, comme ça, de l'intelligence ? On va en perdre combien, comme ça, de la liberté ? J'ai quelque chose à dire à vous les petits jeunes, la relève. Grouillez-vous de sortir des normes, grouillez-vous d'oser sortir du lot, grouillez-vous de voir les choses en grand, d'avoir un grand amour qui prend toute la vie, de vouloir la beauté plus que n'importe quoi, de poser des questions au lieu de croire connaître les réponses, grouillez-vous d'être immenses. Parce que le type, là, le type merveilleux qui vient de mourir, il va falloir le remplacer. Par seulement chez Chanel, qui saura s'en sortir (et je pense à leur peine, Seigneur...) Mais il faudra aussi le remplacer dans l'air du temps. Ça dépend de vous maintenant. It means : Karl me by your name. I will never forget you, my dear.
Sophie Fontanel (L’Obs)
Illustration commission for French weekly @lobs My drawing of French author, doctor, ethologist, neurologist and phychiatrist Boris Cyrulnik for the promotion of his new book 'At Night, I Will Write Suns' @editionsodilejacob With thanks to Carole at L'Obs and Katie at @theillustrationroom
Funny ! Translation of the end of an article about Timothée on the French Newspaper “l’Obs” (very serious newspaper” by François Forestier (well-known films crtitic) “ Does he feel like a star? not at all, he says with a passion that proves that he has become one :-) Then he gets up to say goodbye and hugs me like a fraternal 'abrazzo' In 40 years interviews, I admit that nobody had ever done that to me !!!”
source drawtimmyaroundtheworld IG